Friday, April 18, 2025

LeDomduVin: Le Problème de Bordeaux



Le Problème de Bordeaux 


Je suis en train de faire une étude de marché pour un particulier Hong Kongais qui essaie de vendre sa cave. Il a quelques trucs intéressants, notamment des vieux millésimes et des gros formats, et quelques bons millésimes. 

Malheureusement il a aussi et surtout beaucoup de millésimes compliqués qui ne se vendent pas sur le marché car peu de demande et des notes plutôt basses (comme 1999, 2001, 2002, 2004, 2007, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014 et 2017). 

Les prix qu'il demande ne sont pas forcément mauvais, entre 10 et 20% de moins que les prix moyens sur Wine-Searcher (HK), mais je pense qu'il va avoir beaucoup de mal à vendre ses vins, dans un marché compliqué et déjà inondé. 

Pire encore, la plupart de ses millésimes sont encore largement trouvables/disponibles à des prix pour certains bien en dessous de ce qu'il demande.... Pas facile. 

Le problème de Bordeaux est que beaucoup de gens ont cru faire de bonnes affaires en pensant faire une large plus-value quelques années plus tard, et les prix n'ont cessé de monter. Souvent indexés sur le/les millésimes précédents. 

Par exemple, les 2022 ont été indexés sur les 2021qui sont sortis en Primeur, bien trop chers à mon avis, alors que 2021 fut un millésime compliqué et moins bon ("plus classique" comme disent les Bordelais) dans l'ensemble que 2022, mais qui est arrivé après un trio de beaux millésimes (2018, 19 et 20) qui avaient vu leurs prix déjà bien augmenter. 

Alors bien sûr, il y a l'inflation et beaucoup d'autres facteurs à prendre en compte, je l’admets et je l'entends bien, mais quand même... 

Malheureusement le marché s'est effondré ces quelques dernières années et les prix à la vente ont plutôt baissés. Le bordeaux n'ayant plus vraiment la côte, ou disons moins qu'avant, bien qu’encore très apprécié des connaisseurs et des amateurs. 

De ce fait, beaucoup de gens ont essayé de s'en débarrasser, notamment auprès des maisons aux enchères, voir même des cavistes et même des importateurs/distributeurs (quitte à perdre de l'argent dans certains cas).

Et depuis, on peut voir un retour sur le marché de vieux, voire très vieux millésimes qui étaient pourtant difficiles à trouver (et souvent très chers) il y a encore quelques années. (Tout du moins, c'est ce que je peux constater ici à Hong Kong). 

L'autre problème de Bordeaux est de toujours monter les prix en surestimant la valeur des vins au travers de la place de Bordeaux, sans vraiment se soucier des marchés. 

C'est d'ailleurs l'une des raisons du pourquoi les vins de Bordeaux sont généralement plus chers à Bordeaux (en France en général, ce qui est paradoxal) que dans le reste du monde (les prix du bordeaux à Hong Kong sont souvent bien moins chers qu'en Europe et aux US, la différence de taxes oblige, malgré une distance plus grande). 

Tout ça pour dire, alors que je continuais mon étude de marché, je suis tombé sur quelques exemples typiques de ce que j'expliquais au-dessus. Voici un de ces exemples : 



Prices courtesy of https://www.wine-searcher.com



Chateau Margaux 1986 1.5L (magnum) 
Le particulier le vend pour 1,125 Euros 
Le prix moyen à Hong Kong est de 1,360 Euros 
Le prix moyen en Europe est entre 1,500 et 1,850 Euros 
donc bon positionnement de sa part. 



Prices courtesy of https://www.wine-searcher.com



Alors que le prix moyen en France est entre 2,690 et 3,350 Euros, ce dernier étant proposé par Millésima France qui se veut être un Négociant / Marchand basant ses prix sur la valeur estimé sur la place de Bordeaux (des prix qui, à mon avis, incluent le prix du transport et de la logistique, je l'espère, sinon c'est vraiment du vol). 

Vous voyez où je veux en venir ? Cela étant, on s'étonne après que les vins de Bordeaux se vendent moins bien, et que la région et ses producteurs soient en crise. 

Et ce n'est qu'un exemple parmi des milliers d'autres. Et ça vaut aussi bien pour les vieux que les jeunes millésimes. 

Il faut que Bordeaux arrête de surestimer la valeur de ses vins, surtout dans un marché surchargé par les invendus de ces 3-4 dernières années où la demande est beaucoup moins importante que l'offre.

A mon avis, c'est tout le système Bordelais qu'il faudrait revoir, et revenir à des prix cohérents et/ou qui ont du sens. Car les efforts d'une minorité ne peuvent pas faire grand-chose contre l'inactivité et l'inaction de la majorité. 

Enfin, on peut toujours rêver.... 

Et je suis loin d'être le seul à penser cela. Beaucoup d'articles ont été écrits à ce sujet depuis quelques années déjà, mais Bordeaux n'entend rien, les prix continuent de monter et le marché continue de s'effondrer. 

Même si un petit effort a été fait sur les 2023, cela ne suffira pas. 

La semaine des dégustations En Primeur battant son plein en ce moment même à Bordeaux (du 14 au 19 Avril), nous verrons bien avec les prix des Bordeaux 2024 à leur sortie dans les mois qui viennent. Affaire à suivre....

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom


NB : Une fois n'est pas coutume. J'ai écrit ce post en Français sur ma page Facebook, avant de finalement décider de le partager sur mon blog, sans forcément le traduire. Etant né en France et étant donc français, il peut vous paraitre étonnant que j'écris la plupart de mes posts en Anglais, mais je suis parti de France il y a 28 ans pour aller vivre à l’étranger, en Angleterre, aux US et depuis presque 14 ans à Hong Kong, donc mes lecteurs parlent et lisent mieux l’anglais que le français. Mais il m’arrive de temps en temps d’écrire en français et de ne pas avoir envie de traduire en Anglais. Comme ce post là. 😄     


@ledomduvin  #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #bordeaux #leproblemedebordeaux #marche #market #winemarket #price #prices #etudedemarche #enprimeur #bordeauxenprimeur 


Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).


Thursday, April 17, 2025

LeDomduVin: Tasting French Whisky and other beverages at the French May Arts Fest



Tasting French Whisky and other beverages 


At the French May Arts Fest (@frenchmayartsfest) at the Peninsula Hotel of Hong Kong.





Passing by the table of "Vines & Terroirs" (@vinesandterroirs), my attention was drawn to this little black bottle (looking more like a bottle of Port from afar), with "La Sauzaie Single Malt Français" engraved on it. 



*******work in progress******








My eyes also lingered on the bottle next to it, another French whisky from the same distillery at Chateau de La Sauzaie owned by Cognac Godet (@cognacgodet), with a name that sounds more Japanese than French: "Osokyé".

As an occasional whisky drinker, I could not pass up the opportunity to taste them, especially since I had never heard of them before, despite the rapid global interest and rise of French whisky in recent years. 





Alexandre Chatté, award-winning modern mixologist and spirits-ual Guru, who joined the team of Valentin Maurel (@valentinmaurel) and Charles Soulisse Plou (the co-founders of Vines & Terroirs) as Head of Spirits (about three years ago), took the time to talk to me about these two gems. 












It was also a good occasion to meet a few people and catch up with my friend Marco Ma (@marco.ma825). 


Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #whisky #frenchwhisky #spirits #beverages #frenchmay #frenchmayhk #artsfest #cognacgodet #chateaudelasauzaie #rhum #vinesandterroirs #alexandrechatte #tasting #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine #lovespirits


Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Monday, April 14, 2025

LeDomduVin: Champagne Tasting Class





Champagne Tasting Class




Tasting class with Monica from @cuvee_champagne and private Chef Jacky, introducing Champagnes from Champagne Manon Boutillez Guer (@champagnemanonboutillezguer), Champagne Vincent Charlot (@champcharlottanneux), Champagne Henri Goutorbe (@champagne_hgoutorbe). 











Champagne Vincent Charlot Le Fruit de ma Passion Extra-Brut 2018

Price around 48-52 Euros (HKD 423 - 460)
(@champcharlottanneux)

Champagne Vincent Charlot, also known as Charlot Tanneux, attended Winemaking School in Alsace in the early 1990s. He then took over the family vineyards and embarked on his journey as an organic grower of Champagne. The vineyard spans 4.4 hectares, spread across 39 plots in six villages. Each parcel is vinified separately to highlight its unique terroir. All plots are cultivated using organic and biodynamic practices. He is a Demeter-certified organic grower.

I last tasted it in December 2023 (read it here), and I was pleased to be able to taste it again. It is a great champagne and excellent value for money. Crafted with 55% Pinot Meunier and the remaining 20% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, it has been vinified for 10 months in oak barrels, with indigenous yeasts and no filtration, then finished with a dosage of 3gr/l. The resulting champagne is crisp, as dry, zesty, and lemony as it gets, with slightly toasted brioche nuances mingling with white and stone fruit notes. Nicely done and super easy to drink. It was my favorite in terms of taste/ price /quality ratio.  Highly recommended, if you can get your hand on it, as only 6124 bottles were produced in this vintage.     






Champagne Manon Boutillez-Guer Prise de vue Brut 2012

Price around 75-80 Euros (HKD 662 - 706)
(@champagnemanonboutillezguer)

Five centuries ago, the Boutillez family was already established in the charming village of Villers-Marmery, a Premier Cru located in the heart of the picturesque Montagne de Reims, known for its predominance of Chardonnay grapes in an area where Pinot Noir is usually the norm. 

In 2019, after a career as a nurse, Manon Boutillez Guer decided to join the family tradition and embraced the art of harvesting and winemaking, gradually taking over from her father, Marc Boutillez. 

In 2021, Manon Boutillez won the chardonnay category at the 10th edition of the young talent competition "Les Jeunes Talents du Champagne." Under her own name, Manon Boutillez Guer launched a series of promising champagnes with distinctive, colorful labels.

As a passionate and independent winemaker, she tends her 5.25-hectare vineyard, predominantly planted with Chardonnay, and crafts the exquisite Champagne Boutillez-Guer cuvées with profound respect for tradition. 

She perfectly describes her concept on the back label: "Savourer l’éphémère, saisir l’envoutant, déguster le mystère d’un terroir et sublimer l’instant… telles sont les expériences que je veux vous faire découvrir au travers de mes champagnes." - Manon Boutillez Guer (*)

A Champagne Blanc de Blancs, made from 100% Chardonnay from Villers-Marmery, harvested in September 2012, then disgorged 9 years later, in October 2021, with a dosage of 8g/l, is a tiny production: only 1510 bottles were produced. It was my first time tasting this producer and this champagne, and it was pretty pleasing. This light, elegant, layered Champagne is generous on the attack and mid-palate, with white fruit and floral aromas and flavors mingling with yeasty and mineral notes, leading to the structured and mineral finish. It was lovely and enjoyable, and it undoubtedly benefitted from the exceptional quality of the vintage.  

I would have loved it more, around 50-60 Euros, but I guess 75-80 Euros is the price to pay for such an "ephemeral" tiny production.       






Champagne Manon Boutillez-Guer Les Huchettes Extrait de Terroir Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2018

Price around 128 Euros (around HKD 1,130)
(@champagnemanonboutillezguer)

This was the second champagne we tasted during the class, produced by Manon Boutillez-Guer. It is made from 100% Chardonnay sourced from the 1er Cru vineyard of Villers-Marmery, situated on the eastern side of the Montagne de Reims hill, in the lieu-dit "Les Huchettes." Harvested in September 2018, it was disgorged in June 2023, which is just under 5 years, with a dosage of 4g/l, classifying it as an Extra-Brut. Only 2104 bottles were produced. 

Like the previous Champagne from Manon that we tasted, I enjoyed the attack and mid-palate but was surprised by the lack of finish. In my 33 years of experience as a Sommelier and Wine Buyer, I've noticed that many people (especially young Sommeliers, which is strange if you ask me) prefer this type of wine or champagne that delivers everything upfront. I'm not part of that group, as I prefer wines and champagnes that develop, expand, and provide something to savor from beginning to end. When the taste drops or even disappears in the mid-palate, you're left wanting more, which is not very satisfying and makes you wonder why.       

However, it was a delicious champagne overall, which displayed minerality, elegance, character, complexity, and generosity (despite leaving you wanting more on the finish). Yet small production and the increasing demand for independent champagne growers may explain the hefty price; however, I would have preferred to see this champagne priced at less than 100 Euros. No offense, but at its current price of around 130 Euros, many other excellent champagnes are richer, more complex, layered, and offer a much longer finish than this one.  

As I told Monica after tasting it, this particular champagne would need to be served with food to cover the lack of finish (as many Sommeliers do, unfortunately). It probably would have benefitted from ageing longer on its lees to gain more complexity and length in the finish.       







Champagne Henri Goutorbe Special Club Grand Cru Brut Millesime 2012

Price around 80-100 Euros (around HKD 700-880)
(@champagne_hgoutorbe)


Champagne Henri Goutorbe is a family-owned champagne house in the prestigious Grand Cru village of Aÿ, at the heart of the Champagne region, just 3 km from Epernay. The champagne range was created following the establishment of the vine nursery. This family tradition began in the early 20th century, marking the first stage in the production of champagne wines. Emile Goutorbe was already a nurseryman supplying vine cuttings to other champagne houses in Aÿ when his son Henri was born in 1922.

Henri created the brand after WWII, and since the 1970s, René Goutorbe, Henri's son, has continued to develop the vineyards and oversee the production of the cuvées. His children, Elisabeth, Bertrand, and Etienne, share his passion and are actively involved in enhancing the reputation of their champagnes and the region.

The quality of the hand-harvested grapes comes from carefully selecting the best vines based on their genetic traits and the specific characteristics of each plot. After slowly pressing the grapes and tailoring the vinification process in stainless steel vats to suit each plot’s unique features, the blend undergoes a second fermentation in the bottles. Their champagnes are aged on lees in the bottles within their historic cellars for at least three years for the regular cuvées and five years for the vintage ones.

The Cuvée "Special Club" was established as part of "Club Tresors de Champagne, " a group formed in 1971 that is the first association of winemakers in Champagne advocating for viticulture based on the highest quality standards. It includes approximately 24 artisan winemakers.

Only winemakers who have successfully passed a rigorous set of quality standards are deemed worthy of placing their selected Champagne in the exclusive Special Club bottle, which may only be used by Club Tresors members.

Henri Goutorbe Special Club Brut Grand Cru Millesime 2012 is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards in Aÿ-Champagne. It was harvested in September 2012, then aged on its lees for 10 years, and disgorged in October 2022, with a dosage of 8g/l.  

In the glass, it displayed a pale yellow color with silverish-golden reflections. At first, the nose appeared a bit muted, which is why Monica rightfully decided to open it about one hour before the tasting class began. After about 30 minutes, the nose showed more intensity, with white and stone fruit aromas mingling with floral, mineral, and toasted brioche notes. The attack and mid-palate showed good concentration, complexity, and minerality. It had a long (if somewhat subdued) creamy finish. Nicely done, and it also benefitted from the excellent qualities of the 2012 vintage, and yet it also left me wanting more...


Tasting conclusion


As Henri Goutorbe was the second champagne with a finish that left me hanging (after the second champagne from Manon Boutillez-Guer), I wondered if my palate was not cooperating or if something I ate earlier may have affected the taste. Therefore, I asked my fellow tasters at the table. 

We all love Vincent Charlot and agreed it was definitely the best value for money amongst all the champagnes we tasted that day. 

We were all charmed by the Champagnes of Manon Boutillez-Guer, yet we thought they were on the expensive side. Despite their freshness, zestiness, elegance, and minerality, they did not seem rich, complex, or long enough for their prices. 

As for Henri Goutorbe, only one of the tasters thought it was the best of the bunch. I asked him why but was not convinced of his answer. Yet, everyone is entitled to his/her own opinion, as taste is so subjective. I will suggest either decanting it before serving or keeping it for a few more years to see if it opens up and harmonizes more with time.         

Overall, it was a very interesting tasting with some Champagnes I never tasted before, where we could exchange tasting notes and opinions about each champagne. And that's the beauty of wine tasting; it allows you to connect, share, and discuss with others and have a good time experiencing and even learning new things.    






These champagnes were paired with pieces of Omi beef from Japan and prepared on-site by Chef Jacky (in the picture with Monica below). They were deliciously melting on your palate! I loved it!











Thank you, Monica and Chef Jacky. It was a pleasant little tasting. Lovely Champagnes with succulent Omi beef. What else to ask for? 









It is always an enlightening experience to taste small growers' Champagnes. 









As a last note, I loved the Champagne of Vincent Charlot, and despite my criticisms above, I also liked to taste those of Manon Boutillez Guer, which I was tasting for the first time.

Again, thank you to Monica and Chef Jacky, and a special thank you to Kei Chan for organizing it.


Cheers! Santé!

Dom


(*) (Savor the ephemeral, capture the captivating, taste the mystery of a terroir, and enhance the moment... these are the experiences I want you to discover through my champagnes.)



@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #champagne #cuveechampagne #manonboutillezguer #vincentcharlot #charlottanneux #henrigoutorbe #omibeef #tasting #tastingclass #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine




Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Tuesday, April 8, 2025

LeDomduVin: Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein Österreichischer Sekt F. L. Premier Brut 2021 Austria





Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein Österreichischer Sekt 

F. L. Premier Brut 2021 Austria



A blend of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, this lovely sparkling wine is a real quaffer. In the glass, it displays a pale yellow color with green and silver nuances and thin columns of fast bubbles. The nose is fresh and dry, with white fruits and green apple aromas mingling with floral, mineral, and herb notes. The palate is relatively light and dry, lively and zesty, with white fruits and lime flavors, leading to a touch of iodine in the finish. Nicely done.

Although a bit light (for my palate, which is more accustomed to richer and more complex Champagnes), its friendly and easy-going demeanor compensates for its lack of substance. It is a good afternoon sparkling wine to enjoy with light appetizers.


Cheers! Santé!

Dom


@ledomduvin #ledomduvin @liechtensteinwinery #liechtenstein #liechtensteinwinery #hofkellerei #wine #vin #vino #wein #sparkling #sekt #brut #tasting #tastingnotes #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #winelife #wineyearly #lovewine



Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Thursday, March 27, 2025

LeDomduVin: Nice lunch at LaLa Restaurant Parisien Hong Kong






Nice lunch at LaLa 

Restaurant Parisien Hong Kong 



Very nice lunch at LaLa Restaurant Parisien (@lala.hongkong) in great company with Daan (@daanbeirnaert1) with excellent food from Chef Frankelie Laloum (@franckelielaloum) and succulent wine pairing from Head Sommelier Chow Chester (@chowchester). 

Thank you for the lunch, guys. Nice experience! 





We drank a refreshing Gin Tonic made of Citadelle Gin (@citadellegin) with Fever Tree Tonic (@fevertreemixers) 





Followed by a few glasses of 










Michel Redde et Fils Pouilly Fumé "La Moynerie" 2022

(@domainemichelredde)

It was nice, refreshing, zesty, and focused, with great acidity, balance, and that soothing coating sensation from the minerality. I loved it. 






François Rousset-Martin Savagnin Perrieres (I forgot the vintage) 

(@francoisroussetmartin)

My colleague had it; I did not, but from what I could see in his glass, it had a lovely, slightly oxidated pale yellow color with copper reflects. And from my colleague's point of view, it was really nice—so nice that even Chef Frankelie Laloum recommended it with great praise.    















Château Guiraud Sauternes 2013 (served in magnum) with the cheeses

(@chateauguiraud)

Beautifully crafted, rich and complex, yet elegant, smooth, and gentle, it has an outstanding balance between acidity and sweetness and a lingering finish. I loved it.  







I did not take many pictures of the dishes, sorry. 😁👍🍷






Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

NB: Thank you to Jameson (@jamesonchim) for the suggestion. 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #wineyearly #lovewine #wineinlife #lifeinwine #unplannedlunch


Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Tuesday, March 18, 2025

LeDomduVin: Domaine Leflaive and Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021





Domaine Leflaive & 

Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021








Since the inception of the French departmental system in 1790, Burgundy has been referred to as the geographic area comprising the four departments of Yonne, Côte-d'Or, Nièvre, and Saône-et-Loire (see map above created with https://www.mapchart.net/ and edited by and for ©Ledomduvin 2025).

However, the wine region called Burgundy is slightly different. Wines are produced in the Yonne department for Chablis (Auxerrois) and along a roughly 200 km corridor (following the highway A6) crossing three departments (from North to South): Côte-d'Or, Saône-et-Loire, and Rhône.





Yet, most Burgundy maps mainly show the regions of Côte-d'Or and Saône-et-Loire, reducing the Burgundy stretch to only about 125 km, starting south of Dijon and ending south of Macon (often excluding Beaujolais and Chablis).    

Although the Chablis and Beaujolais regions are also part of Burgundy, respectively located in the Yonne and Rhône departments, they are often left off most Burgundy maps, mostly appearing in the corner or on a separate map entirely (see above - Map of Burgundy - Courtesy of www.bourgogne-wines.com).   

 





Within each of these departments, the wine areas are divided into several regions, subdivided into several appellation levels (based on quality and rank), and arranged in a pyramid, starting with the most generic, AOC regional, at the bottom and ascending to AOC communes/villages or appellations, AOC 1er Cru and AOC Grand Cru (see the pyramid above).






I created the "BURGUNDY AOC Hierarchy Table with Leading APPELLATIONS" above because I could not find a table that included the main Burgundy AOC. Numbers may differ depending on the sources. (*)   


However, enough is said about Burgundy's many AOCs; let's focus on the one of interest for today's post: Puligny-Montrachet. 





Map of Puligny-Montrachet - Courtesy of www.bourgogne-wines.com




Located in the Cote d'Or department, Puligny-Montrachet is a small village at the heart of the Côte de Beaune, between Meursault to the north and Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. Domaine Leflaive is the jewel of the appellation, renowned for producing some of the finest whites of Burgundy.

The village of Puligny-Montrachet produces wines under 3 levels of AOC:

- Village (both white and red, even if the red only accounts for less than 1% of the total production),
- Premier Cru (white only)
- Grand Cru (white only)

NB: Other reds from defined areas within the boundaries of Puligny-Montrachet are usually sold under the appellation "Côte de Beaune Villages."


Puligny-Montrachet possesses 17 climats classified as "Premier Cru" and shares 2 "Grand Cru" with Chassagne-Montrachet.

17 Premier Cru

Champ Canet, Champ Gain, Clavaillon, Clos de la Garenne, Clos de la Mouchère, Hameau de Blagny, La Garenne, La Truffière, Le Cailleret, Les Chalumaux, Les Combettes, Les Demoiselles, Les Folatières, Les Perrières, Les Pucelles, Les Referts and Sous le Puits

4 Grands Crus

Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet (shared with Chassagne-Montrachet)
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet (situated entirely within Puligny-Montrachet)

Some may also think of a fifth one, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, but it is located entirely within Chassagne-Montrachet.


Domaine Leflaive


The Leflaive family's roots date back to 1717 when Claude Leflaive settled in Puligny-Montrachet. The following generations worked as Tonneliers (Cooper) and owned several hectares of vines whose grapes were sold. Joseph Leflaive (1870-1953) created the Domaine, and his son Vincent Leflaive further developed it.

Vincent's daughter, Anne-Claude Leflaive, a winemaker and pioneer in biodynamic viticulture, succeeded her father in 1990 and began overseeing Domaine Leflaive's day-to-day operations. Under her leadership, the Domaine underwent a renaissance, drastically improving the quality of the wines.

After Anne-Claude Leflaive's untimely death in April 2015, the estate is now managed by Brice de la Morandiere, Anne-Claude's nephew and Joseph's great-grandson. Winemaking is under the control of Eric Remy.

The Domaine is a leading producer of biodynamic practices and the flagship of the appellation. It covers approximately 24 hectares in Puligny-Montrachet and features Grands Crus and Premiers Crus, all dedicated to a single varietal: Chardonnay.

Domaine Leflaive produces wines at all AOC levels: 

AOC Grand Cru
  • Montrachet, 0.0821 hectares (0.203 acres)
  • Chevalier-Montrachet, 1.99 hectares (4.9 acres)
  • Bâtard-Montrachet, 1.91 hectares (4.7 acres)
  • Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, 1.15 hectares (2.8 acres)

AOC Premier Cru
  • Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles, Folatières, Les Combettes, Le Clavoillon
  • Meursault sous le Dos d'Âne

AOC Village wine
  • Puligny-Montrachet, 7 climats totalling 4.64 hectares (11.5 acres)

AOC Regional wine
  • Bourgogne blanc from 2 parcels totalling 3.24 hectares (8.0 acres)


Domaine Leflaive ramifications

To clarify, Domaine Leflaive and Olivier Leflaive's négociant business are completely separate entities. 

As for "Domaines Leflaive" (with an "s" at the end of Domaine), it represents an extension of Domaine Leflaive in the Mâconnais region to explore the family's extensive vineyard holdings (Mâcon-Verzé, Pouilly-Fuissé, etc...). These holdings are either owned or leased long-term through the family's close relationships with vineyard owners in the area. 

The vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic, and the family directly handles all work in the vineyards, the harvest, and the vinification of the wines in the Domaine's cellar in Puligny-Montrachet. 

This Mâcon-Verzé is one of these wines and undeniably one of the best values of their portfolio.  






Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verzé Burgundy 2021


Mineral, fresh, zesty, focused, subtle, elegant, gentle, with lemon and stonefruit aromas mingling with butter, vanilla, and toasted nuances, and that utterly satisfying "glycerine" sensation coating the palate, so characteristic of Domaine Leflaive wines, especially within their Puligny-Montrachet(s), leading to the long, fresh and mineral finish. What a delicious little wine with a lively energy! Love it!

I could drink a lot of this wine! 😋😋😋😋

Cheers! Santé!


Dom


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(*) Numbers may differ depending on the sources. The table above only includes the main regions and villages, as it would be impossible to fit every single one of the 785 AOCs (appellations) of Burgundy into a single table. For example, there are 44 AOC villages and a staggering 662 climats classified as Premiers Crus in Burgundy. Some Regional Appellations and regional denominations have also been omitted due to a lack of space (e.g., Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne Côte du Couchois, Bourgogne white and red, Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains, and Côteaux Bourguignons, Crémant de Bourgogne, etc.). Numbers courtesy of https://www.bourgogne-wines.com





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Wednesday, March 12, 2025

LeDomduVin: Some delightful wines! (part 2)





Some delightful wines (part 2)



I chose these 2 wines to pair with the food of a private dinner and, once again, was really pleased with my choice.





Champagne Henriot Cuvée Hemera Brut 2008


This was my first time trying Henriot Cuvee Hemera. I had heard of it before, but I had never had the chance to try it. 2008 is an excellent vintage in champagne, and I could not wait to try it. Loved it. 

A blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from 6 different crus, roughly divided equally, Henriot Hemera 2008 boasts aromas of citrus and stone fruits mingling with toasted and mineral notes. The palate displays finesse, richness, and complexity, elegantly enhanced with freshness and zestiness. Focused, mineral, and earthy, the long finish immediately calls for another glass. Exquisite!






Château Pichon Baron Pauillac Bordeaux 2016


Pichon Baron was an obvious choice, as it is one of my favorite Pauillac. I had the chance to visit it many times during the En Primeur in the mid-2000s and even sleep at the chateau most of these times. 

Each visit and meeting with Christian Seely and Jean-Rene Matignon (and occasionally José Sanfins from Cantenac Brown) was a pleasurable learning experience, enhancing my love for this property and its wines. It was my first time trying the 2016 vintage. 

A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, aged for 18 months in 80% new barrels and 20% barrels from one vintage, Pichon Baron 2016 is a generous, silky, dense, and harmonious wine. Its ripe dark and red fruit aromas combine with hints of oak, mocca, vanilla, and spices. It displays perfect balance, complexity, and a suave texture. Its chiselled structure is enhanced by lovely freshness and present yet integrated tannins. Rich, elegant, refined, and highly satisfying. Loved it. 


Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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Monday, March 3, 2025

LeDomduVin: Some delightful wines!





Some delightful wines! 



Last week, while serving a private dinner, I was delighted with this champagne and wine.

For those who may wonder how my job works (as a private and corporate Sommelier), well, let's say that I'm lucky enough to have "Carte Blanche" on what I do, buy, and serve.

Generally, I'm told where, when, how many guests, the wine price range, and the menu, and I do the rest (sourcing, buying, logistics, preparing, and serving the wines).

Therefore, as you may understand, the host and his/her guests do not drink what they want, but what I want to drink. 
😁👍🥂🍾🍷

As I am the one buying and serving the wine, I never ask myself, "What should I pair with this menu?" Instead, I tell myself, "What would I drink with this menu?"

The answer usually depends on the menu, of course, but also on my mood and my gut's feelings.

Aside from the price, a Sommelier mostly chooses wine based on his/her knowledge, experience, and taste, but, occasionally, also on daring new pairings based on gut feelings.

And that night, that's what I did. The food was Chinese cuisine, and I needed wines aromatic and flavorful enough to pair with the food without overpowering it.

It took me a while to decide as I had plenty of other choices, but that's what I wanted for that night. I wanted to try these, and I was right to listen to my gut's feelings.

I was delighted, and both were delightful!






2016 Bollinger PN VZ 16 Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne


The Bollinger PN cuvée is characterized by its Pinot Noir flavor and terroir-based approach. PN VZ16 presents a fresh perspective on Bollinger's expertise and vineyards.

PN VZ16 is an assembly of 100% Pinot Noir, primarily from the Verzenay cru in the northern part of the Montagne de Reims. It is blended with grapes from other villages on the Montagne de Reims, including Avenay and Tauxières. The base year is 2016, but older wines are also included in the reserve magnums, with the oldest dating back to 2006. Its aging period in the cellar is twice as long as the appellation requires. The dosage is 6 grams per liter.

In the glass, it presents a clear, pale golden color. The nose is fresh, with aromas of yellow fruits like apple and quince mingling with discreet nutty and oaky toasted notes. The palate is clean, rich, ample, and coating, really well balanced and structured between the yellow and exotic fruit flavors and the acidity. The attack is clean and fresh, expanding immediately to the fuller and generous mid-palate enhanced with a rich mousse, leading to the long and saline finish. Lovely and harmonious, the first glass definitely calls for a second one. A great champagne to enjoy with family and friends around a table offering amuse-bouches and starters based on shellfish and fish.       








2005 Château Montrose Saint-Estephe Bordeaux


Château Montrose is a prestigious winery in the Saint-Estèphe appellation, in the northern part of the Haut-Medoc, about 62 km north of the City of Bordeaux.

Classified as Second Growth in the official 1855 classification of Bordeaux wines, it is renowned for producing red wines of exceptional quality, often comparable to Premiers Crus.

Château Montrose's history dates to 1815, when Etienne Théodore Dumoulin planted the first vines. After he died in 1861, the estate was sold to Mathieu Dollfus, who completely transformed the facilities, including building new cellars and housing for the workers.

Untouched and undivided, the vineyard area is the same today as during the Dumoulin period. The estate extends over 95 hectares of vineyards surrounding the Chateau and the annex buildings. 

Montrose's unique geographic location, influenced by the proximity of the Gironde Estuary and its various terroirs, mainly composed of gravel and black sand with a clay and marl subsoil, contributes to its wines' richness and complexity.

Chateau Montrose produces three red wines: the great eponymous wine, a second wine called “La Dame de Montrose”, and a third, more accessible wine called “Tertio de Montrose”.

Montrose wines are known for their high tannin content and ability to age for several decades. They are usually aged for about 18 months in roughly 60% new French oak barrels, contributing to their rich and complex taste profile.

Château Montrose is an emblematic Bordeaux estate recognized for its high-quality wines and exceptional terroir. It is one of my favorite Bordeaux wines, and this 2005 vintage was a treat.

The cork smelled great at the opening, which is always a sign of a good to great wine. In the glass, it boasts a dark ruby color. The nose is fragrant and enticing, with ripe cassis, blackberries, cigar, and mocca aromas mingling with graphite, soil, and earthy notes. The palate is ripe, dark, rich, and generous, without being heavy due to a good dose of acidity to keep it fresh and balanced. The finish is long, with still present yet integrated tannins combined with that gripy, earthy feeling so characteristic of Saint-Estephe wines. It was even more suave, expressive, and tamed after 2 hours in the decanter. What a lovely wine, still showing plenty of youth and ageing potential. Buy some if you still can get your hands on it.          


Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).