LeDomduVin: Mise en place - Part 2: Quartet

Mise en place - Part 2: Quartet

These were the second parts of the "mise en place" I did 2 weeks ago. 

I opened them for a private lunch that weekend, and they showed beautifully. 

Champagne Jacques Selosse VO "Version Originale" Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut NV (disgorged in Nov 2019)

It delivered charm, character, intensity, and concentration with great finesse and beautiful minerality. In my book, it is a classic!

Champagne Salon Cuvee 'S' Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut 1996

Probably the most prestigious champagne house, Salon possesses unmatched uniqueness. Despite its age, it was gorgeously fresh and mineral, layered, complex, and long. Amazing! 

Jean-Claude Ramonet Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2018

Ramonet is one of my favorite producers in the Chassagne / Puligny area. The wines, with their zesty fruits, great freshness, and high minerality, have a sense of purity. And it was the case for this Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, a pure delight! 

Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg Grand Cru Burgundy 2020

It is a sacrilege to open such a young wine, yet I could not resist. It was rich, complex, and layered, offering generously ripe dark and red fruits. The palate was powerful and ample yet elegant and sophisticated, balanced and velvety, expanding beautifully towards the seamless finish. Although approachable now, it will reward those with the patience to wait for it. What a magnificent wine! 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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Ledomduvin: Portrait 

Before continuing to share pictures and descriptions of the great wines I had the chance to open these past few days, I wanted to share this picture of me right before the service (taken last night).

I don't take many pictures of myself, especially when working, as I much prefer sharing the bottles and labels of the wines I open instead. It is much more interesting than showing my face. 

However, as I hadn’t done it for a while, I asked a colleague to take a few pictures of me before the service, and I liked this one. 

I am proud to be a Sommelier and lucky to do a job I love. I have been doing this for 33 years with the same passion, determination, and professionalism, and I will hopefully do it for many more years, sharing my love, passion, and knowledge of wine with all of you. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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Ledomduvin: Mise en place - Opened wines - Part 1

Mise en place - Opened wines - Part 1

Following my previous post on "mise en place," here are some of the bottles we opened last weekend. This is part 1, and part 2 will be in a second post.

Champagne Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs Brut 2006

Rich, layered, complex, refined, fine bubbles, zesty, with fresh, delicate aromas of apple, pear, and stone fruits mingling with lightly toasted brioche, mineral, and floral notes. Stunning!

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2019

This is a fantastic wine, with a delicate complexion and incredible minerality conveying a sense of purity. Displaying gorgeous Japanese pear and white stone fruit aromas and flavors, the palate is soft, gentle, rich, waxy, focused, incredibly balanced, and expands nicely from the attack to the long-lasting finish, with that glycerine sensation that makes you salivate and want more. Some remained in the bottle, and I tasted it two days later; it was still delightful. I loved it!

DRC (Domaine de la Romanee Conti) Richebourg Grand Cru Burgundy 1993

One of the guests brought this bottle. It was okay, not great. As I often say, even DRC or Petrus makes lesser wines in lesser vintages. When the wine is bad, the wine is bad, no matter the name on the label.

This was a perfect example. It was not surprising either, as 1993 in Burgundy is a controversial vintage (opinions are divided), but nonetheless relatively poor due to rain during the growing and harvest seasons, resulting in high acidity, tight tannins, and a lack of fruit in many wines. The wine was relatively thin and tight, shy about aromas and flavors, and lacking substance and depth. The guest suggested decanting it, yet even after 1 hour, despite somewhat of a timid opening, it was not necessarily better. Disappointing, in my opinion, and definitely not worth the demanded price.

Chateau Latour Premier Grand Cru Classe Pauillac Bordeaux 2005

This was another stunning wine. It even showed better than the previous bottle I opened the week before. Racy, sophisticated, rich, and layered, yet in an elegant way. Not the powerhouse I thought it would be for such a solar vintage: this wine is all about finesse and refinement. Loved It!

Cheers!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Dom Perignon Rose Oenotheque1992

Champagne Dom Perignon Rose Oenotheque1992 

This past weekend, I had the chance to taste this beautiful champagne rose from a magnum bottle for the first time. 

It was exciting and surprising as I don't get to try Dom Perignon Oenotheque very often, especially from the 90s and, more significantly, Rose. 

I did not really know what to expect, so it was like venturing into new ground. 

In the glass, it displayed a strange color that is difficult to describe: something between a pale yet bright "rose-bonbon" and "pinkish-orange salmon". 

Despite its age, the nose was relatively young, fresh, and incentive, boasting red berries and strawberry aromas mingling with earthy and yeasty notes. 

The palate was pleasant, rather elegant, quite rich, and surprisingly dry due to a good amount of acidity. There were still some fine bubbles. The lingering finish is also agreeable. 

Is it the best rose from Dom Perignon Oenotheque I have ever tried? I cannot compare, unfortunately. 

Overall, it was a pleasurable experience. I think the magnum size and good storage condition ensured that it retained its freshness and taste. 

It would be interesting to taste a regular bottle to see if it tastes fresh or shows signs of aging. 

Please let me know if you have ever tasted this champagne and your impression in the comments. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Mise en place! What a line-up!

Mise en place! What a line-up! 

I know, I constantly repeat myself, yet it is true: I'm one of the luckiest Sommeliers I know. 

I mean, look at these wines! Isn't it amazing? 

How many Sommeliers can pretend to prepare, open, taste, and serve such gems regularly? Not many, for sure. 

These were part of a recent "mise en place" for a few private lunches and dinners (in the order of the pictures):

Champagne Jacques Selosse VO "Version Originale" Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut NV (disgorged in Nov 2019)

Jean-Claude Ramonet Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2018

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2019

Champagne Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs Brut 2006

Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg Grand Cru Burgundy 2020

Chateau Latour Premier Grand Cru Classe Pauillac Bordeaux 2005

Domaine William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru "Montmains" Burgundy 2019

Bachelet-Monnot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Hameau de Blagny" Burgundy 2018

Domaine Delaporte Sancerre Rouge "Silex" Loire Valley 2020

Such a great line-up of excellent wines! It makes me drool just looking at these bottles. 

In my next posts, I'll tell you about the ones I opened, tasted, and served. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: The usual suspect - Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Burgundy 2019

The usual suspect

Those who follow me know that I have opened this wine countless times over the last three years, hence my calling it “the usual suspect”!

What can I say? I love this wine; and it gets better every time I open it

Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Burgundy 2019

It is still a young wine, and over the last three years, it has gone through “open and closed” phases. Yet, this time again, it was open and delicious!

Right after opening, attractive, exuberant scents emanated from the bottle. Dense and bright ruby color in the glass. Beautiful wild red and dark cherry, floral, spicy, lightly oaky aromas combined with mineral and earthy nuances filled the room.

The palate is bright, juicy, complex, layered, rich, yet delicate, elegant, sophisticated, and superbly balanced between the fruit, the acidity, and the integrated tannins. The structured and textured mid-palate leads to the seamless and lingering finish, which immediately calls for another glass. I looooove this wine.

In a recent conversation with a customer, I explained that as a Sommelier, I look for the “Wow!” factor in a wine; this instant gratification and satisfaction that makes you want another glass as soon as you finish the first one.

I love buying, serving, and drinking these types of wine, especially when there is an excellent quality/price ratio.

Wine does not have to be expensive to be good. Plenty of “supposedly” premium wines and established brands, such as Chateaux and Domaines, sell lesser wines, especially in lesser vintages.

Despite the price they command, even DRC or Petrus makes wines that are not worth the cost in lesser years.

For me, whether it costs 10 or 1000 euros, good wine must give you instant satisfaction and gratification and make you want to drink more. And this “Clos de La Roche Vieilles Vignes” from Domaine Ponsot does just that!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Casual Tasting

Casual tasting

The other day, a colleague Sommelier made me taste these wines, some of which were featured on his wine list.

It was an interesting tasting as I was unfamiliar with some of them. I heard of them but had yet to taste them.

Champagne Palmer & Compagnie Brut Reserve France NV

Light, dry, crisp, everything up-front and disappearing quickly, unfortunately. I would have loved more substance and a longer finish.

Leeu Passant Chardonnay Stellenbosch South-Africa 2019

Light, crisp, fresh, and mineral, it has fresh butter aromas, lovely acidity, and a zesty mouthfeel. If tasted blind, it would have been challenging to tell it was from South Africa. Very Burgundian for a so-called "new world" Chardonnay. I liked it.

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling Clare Valley Australia 2023

Bone dry, crisp, mineral, and really refreshing, with restrained yet attractive aromas of stone fruits and lime with chalky nuances. Beautiful and well-crafted.

Grace Vineyard Chairman's Reserve Special Edition China 2016

Intense, deep ruby color. Fragrant earthy nose of ripe cassis, black cherry, and black plum with earthy, soil, and leafy nuances. It felt overipped, with burned and smoked flavors. Somewhat rustic. I would have loved to like it more, but I did not. It is a wannabe Bordeaux lacking its French counterpart's depth, complexity, class, and sophistication. It's not a bad wine, but it's not my thing.

Roebuck Estates Classic Cuvee England 2017

Bone dry, crisp, light, fine mousse, nice zesty fruits, good structure, balance, and lingering finish. Compared to the champagne Palmer & Co., I liked it better. Some of these English sparkling wines are undeniably great contenders for Champagne. 

Venturing into the lesser-known path is often surprising. A sommelier must taste everything from everywhere and within any price range. It is the only way to learn, educate, and train the palate and the senses, increase skills and knowledge, and remain open-minded.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: When the opportunity presents itself - Palmer 2009 and Lafleur 2008

When the opportunity presents itself:

Palmer 2009 & Lafleur 2008

The other day, I served a small group of cigar enthusiasts in one of our private rooms. It was an evening of cigars, wines, snacks, and karaoke.

Usually, for cigar evenings, I like to serve aromatic, flavorful, deep, and powerful wines so that the aromas and taste are not masked by the smoky smell and taste of the cigar.

In general, Pauillac and Pomerol wines go well with cigars. Their richness and complexity complement those of the cigars.

However, that evening, I decided to open a Margaux: Chateau Palmer 2009.

Margaux is definitely not my go-to choice when it comes to pairing wine and cigars. Usually, Margaux wines are too fine, light, and delicate; they fade rapidly when paired with the cigar.

But those who know the 2009 vintage from Chateau Palmer know that it is a great wine, harmonious and rich in ripe dark fruit, with amplitude, richness, complexity, and thickness, with an endless finish, which can definitely tolerate cigars or even enhance them.

It was a wise choice, and I was very satisfied with it, and the guests too.

Suddenly, one of the guests asked me if I had a 2008 wine because it was a special vintage for her.

I told her, "I'll check." I ran to the cellar. I didn't have much choice in stock. It was either a bottle of “La Fleur-Petrus” or one of “Lafleur," two beautiful wines from Pomerol. I took both bottles.

Back in the private room, I decided to open the bottle of Lafleur Pomerol 2008. After all, when the opportunity presents itself, why not?

First of all, because I love this wine. And, since the price was apparently not a problem, might as well treat myself and taste a wine I don't open very often.

Although Lafleur 2008 is lighter in taste and texture and slightly more advanced in age than Palmer 2009, it is no less aromatic or complex. It has tertiary aromas and a rustic, earthy feeling that I like. The lingering finish is delightful.

Despite their differences, one is bold and powerful, and the other is medium-bodied and heartier yet refined and elegant; both these wines work wonders with the cigars!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Classic Trio - Selosse / Leflaive / Haut-Brion

Classic Trio

In the world of wine, there are unmistakable names, flagships of their appellations, such as Selosse, Leflaive, and Haut-Brion.

I like to select, open, and taste these wines periodically. This allows me to see their evolution and their aging potential.

I have opened these wines several times over the last three years, and I have to admit that I never get tired of them. They always give me so much pleasure every time.

Jacques Selosse V.O "Version Originale" Blanc-de-Blancs Grand Cru Champagne Extra Brut NV

It still delivers charm, character, intensity, complexity, and concentration with finesse, elegance, and beautiful minerality. Loved it.

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Pucelles" 2017

This wine is sentimental to me. Leflaive “Les Pucelles” was the first Puligny-Montrachet that I ever tasted. In 1997, I was working as a young Sommelier in a private club in London (Monte's on Sloan Street), and a customer ordered this bottle. It was a 1992 or 1993 vintage; I don't know anymore. It was a revelation, and I have loved this wine ever since. This 2017 combined elegance, freshness, zestiness, and minerality. Some may say it is a bit tight and lean, but it is just a question of taste. I liked it.

Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Grand Cru Classe Graves 2016

I know, I repeat myself, but Haut-Brion is my favorite Bordeaux wine. Over the last three years, I have opened many bottles because I love this wine so much. It has remained quite consistent and has not really evolved. It has opened up a little and seems more approachable now. That said, it is still a very young wine, which will satisfy those who have the patience to let it flourish in the cellar for a few more years. Once again, it was really superb.

There are those who make good wine and those who make great wine. These three wines undoubtedly belong to the latter category.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Latour 2005 vs Latour 2009

Latour 2005 vs Latour 2009

It is not every day that I open two bottles of the same Chateau in different vintages, especially one of my favorite First Growths.

Comparing two vintages of Chateau Latour, such as 2005 and 2009, is tricky as both have similarities. Yet, they are distinctively and intrinsically different.

Both were solar vintages with high temperatures and dry, hot growing seasons, which produced ripe, rich, layered, and concentrated wines.

These conditions could have resulted in high alcohol, unbalanced, or cooked wines.

Fortunately, some cool nights and enough rain at the right time provided juiciness, balance, and freshness while preventing drought and overripeness, resulting in wines combining complexity and depth with great aging potential.

Ultimately, 2005 was an excellent vintage that produced some fantastic wines, while 2009 is considered a legendary vintage that produced stellar wines.

This might explain the 200+ Euro price difference between the two. On Wine Searcher, Chateau Latour 2005 starts at around 680 Euros, and Latour 2009 starts at around 870 Euros, and it shows in the glass.

Although both displayed a dark color, undoubtedly due to their age difference, the aspect of the 2005 seemed lighter, more medium-deep ruby color with slightly more advanced nuances, while the 2009 was of a darker ruby red with some purple touch.

The difference between the two wines was quite significant on the nose. The 2005 was soft, gentle, discreet, and sophisticated. It displayed attractive aromas of red and dark berries, cassis, graphite, coffee, and licorice, with earthy, spicy, and floral hints. On the other hand, the 2009 was bold, powerful, and confident. It boasted dark berries, blackberries, and mocha aromas, with hints of toasted oak and chocolate.

These differences appeared even more evident on the palate. Although complex, balanced, sophisticated, and finely chiseled, the 2005 seemed lighter and dryer than the 2009, which was rich, opulent, juicy, and chewy. It had plenty of dark ripe fruits, excellent balance, and concentration, expanding nicely to the lingering finish.

I loved them both despite their differences, yet I found the 2009 more pleasurable to my palate. My advice: don’t open and drink them side by side, as it might alter your opinion about the 2005, which is also a superb wine yet slightly less expressive than its younger sibling.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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