LeDomduVin: Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2016

Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2016

Along with Champagne Salon 2007 and Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet 2020 (see previous posts), I also served Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2016.

Domaine Hubert Lignier needs no introduction. It is one of the unavoidable classic producers of Morey-Saint-Denis, one of the appellation's staples and one of Burgundy's most renowned and sought-after producers.

They produce wines from the Côte de Nuits (Clos de la Roche, Morey-St-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Nuits-St-Georges) and some in Côte de Beaune (Pommard, Monthelie, Volnay).

"Their wines are authentic and sensual, expressing their own terroir," as Laurent Lignier (the son of Hubert), who now runs the Domaine, likes to say humbly.

The estate has followed organic practices since 2006 and was certified "Agriculture Biologique" (AB) in 2019.

Wine quality is directly linked to their vineyard, mainly consisting of old vines planted through massale selections. The oldest vines were planted in 1936. Since the 1990s, they have implemented soil cultivation practices such as plowing and hoeing, completely avoiding herbicides and insecticides.

The estate focuses on caring for the vines and preserving biodiversity in the face of climate change's impact on the vineyard and surrounding environment.

In the cellar, minimal intervention maintains the fruit's quality, balance, and complexity. Grapes are hand-harvested, sorted, fermented in tanks, and aged for almost two years in oak barrels with 20 to 30% new oak.

The wines are then racked and bottled by gravity without filtration or clarification. This results in balanced and refined wines with significant aging potential while remaining relatively approachable at a young age.

Their Clos de la Roche 2016 embodies the classic Burgundian style. It is attractive, light, ruby, and medium-bodied. It combines great fruit and terroir expression with elegance, complexity, precision, depth, freshness, structure, texture, and balance while maintaining a distinctive natural and ethereal quality. I loved it.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2020

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 

Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2020

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. It was established in 1985 by Laurence Gagnard and her husband, Richard Fontaine, following Laurence's inheritance of a portion of Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange.

Céline Fontaine (Laurence and Richard's daughter) joined her family estate in 2007 and now runs the Domaine, which encompasses 12 hectares of vineyards, mainly in Chassagne-Montrachet, across several Premiers Crus and a few plots in Volnay and Pommard.

They also hold holdings in the prestigious Grands Crus vineyards of Le Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, and Criots-Batard-Montrachet and a few plots classified as Bourgogne rouge and Bourgogne blanc.

Their wine range covers 22 different appellations. Roughly two-thirds of production is devoted to white wine (around Chassagne-Montrachet) and one-third to red (Volnay and Pommard).

In the vineyard, they use sustainable agriculture methods to respect and be as close as possible to nature. They have adopted a less interventionist approach in the cellar, allowing the wines to reach their full potential and reveal each terroir's best expressions and characteristics.

They use natural indigenous yeasts. Aging takes place in oak barrels. The percentage of new oak varies from 15-20% for the Village appellations and 30-40% for the Premiers Crus and Grands Crus. The wines usually spend 12 months in oak for the whites and up to 18 months for the reds. Light fining and filtration before bottling.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is still "under the radar" and thus produces delicate yet complex and refined, classic-style Burgundian wines at very reasonable prices while only making a tiny amount. For example, this Batard-Montrachet hailed from only 0.3 hectares of vines out of the 11.24 hectares of this Grand Cru vineyard's surface.

Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet 2020

Beyond its pale yellow color, the nose was light, fresh, elegant, mineral, zesty, and citrusy. At first, slightly restrained, the palate slowly opened, revealing a fresh, dry, mineral texture, good density, lots of lemony flavors, sharp acidity, and lightly toasted, oaky nuances. Nice, even if a bit light to my palate for a Batard-Montrachet. I would have loved to see a bit more substance and depth. Yet, it might benefit from a few more years in the cellar. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Salon and Salon “Cuvée S” Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut 2007

Champagne Salon 

Salon “Cuvée S” Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut 2007

Only produced in exceptional years, with only 44 cuvées produced in 120 years, Salon is one of the rare unicorns of Champagne.

Located at the heart of the prestigious "Côte des Blancs," the vineyard of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger possesses a unique chalky terroir with excellent hydric qualities, where the Chardonnay excels and thrives.

Established in 1911 by Eugène-Aimé Salon, with the first vintage being 1905, Salon was born from his creator's love for Champagne and his captivation for the terroir of Le Mesnil, a “Grand Cru” vineyard scattered around the village of Mesnil-Sur-Oger.

Made from 100% Chardonnay sourced from a single-hectare plot called "Le Jardin Salon" and nineteen other small plots in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, selected by Eugène-Aimé Salon at the beginning, Salon is a “Blanc de Blancs”, aged for ten years on average before release.

Before Salon’s first public release in 1920, Eugène-Aimé Salon crafted all previous vintages for his own personal pleasure. The 1905, 1909, and 1911 vintages are highly coveted by collectors while being impossible to find.

In 1963, Salon was sold to Dubonet-Cinzano, which failed to develop the brand. However, in the late 1980s, things changed for the better when Laurent-Perrier purchased Salon.

Today, Didier Depond, President, and Michel Fauconnet, Cellar Master and Production Manager of the Laurent-Perrier group, manage Salon alongside Champagne Delamotte.

Salon exports 95% of its production and commands a high price as it only amounts to about 60000 regular bottles.

In the early 2000s, my first experience with the 1990 vintage was truly eye-opening, a real epiphany for my taste buds.

Later, the 1996 vintage left me speechless. It is one of the best Champagnes I have tried, sold, and served throughout my 32-year Sommelier career.

More recently, the vintages of 2002 and 2006 were truly unique and delicious in their respective ways.

Salon “Cuvée S” Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut 2007

That night, I tried the 2007 vintage for the first time, and once again, it was a revelation. Its freshness, elegance, focus, minerality, concentration, and racy sophistication were mind-blowing.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Chateau Calon Ségur Saint-Estèphe 2016

Chateau Calon Ségur Saint-Estèphe 2016

I first tasted Calon Segur in the early '90s at the restaurant where I worked (Le Relais de Compostelle, Pessac).

I must admit that I was not very fond of Saint-Estephe's wines then. They were always quite rustic, dry, and austere to my palate, with a soil-driven earthy taste, often backed up by astringent tannins.

Two Chateaux always seemed to come on top of this appellation and please my taste buds: Cos d’Estournel and Calon Segur. Calon being less expensive (on the wine list), I had more occasions to taste and serve it.

During my London years (1997-2002), Calon Segur was always mentioned in the wine lists of the various restaurants where I worked, but I did not sell or taste much of it, as my taste for Saint-Estephe’s wines had not changed much. I preferred to open wines from other Bordeaux appellations.

During the first five years of my New York years (2002-2011), I had the chance to come to Bordeaux every year to participate in the “En Primeurs,” visiting chateaux and tasting hundreds of wines for 8 to 10 days straight each time.

It allowed me to reconnect with the wines of Saint-Estephe, which had evolved into much fruitier, smoother, and more integrated wines compared to the 1990s. I rediscovered this appellation with a new perspective and enthusiasm, finding wines I previously “disliked” to be more to my liking.

Due to technical changes and improvements in vineyard and cellar management, Chateaux like Montrose, Phelan-Segur, and Lafon-Rochet, for example, became more fruit-forward, rounder, more approachable, less rustic, and less tannic. The 2000s saw a renewal of interest for Saint-Estephe wines.

The quality of Saint-Estephe wines has never ceased to increase ever since.

Château Calon Ségur 2016

This beautiful wine offers elegant aromas of ripe black fruits and spices with floral, mineral, earthy, and oaky nuances. Medium-bodied yet rich and generous, it is well-structured and fresh, with exceptional aging potential. Loved it.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Henriot “L’Inattendue” Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2016

Champagne Henriot “L’Inattendue” Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2016

I have always loved Champagne Henriot. 

Even their entry-level "Brut Souverain NV" is always a delight for the taste buds. It is rich, generous, ample, well-balanced, and enjoyable for any occasion. It is one of my "go-to" Champagnes and a real steal at this price! 

But today, I would like to talk about their special Cuvée, "L'Inattendue" ("the unexpected"), which has been one of my favorite champagnes lately.

The idea behind the creation of this Cuvée was to exemplify one of the House's founding craftsmanship principles: highlighting the diverse terroirs of Champagne. As such, it reveals the unique characteristics of a specific terroir to a single-year and grape variety.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay from the terroir of the Côte des Blancs in the Grands Crus vineyard of Avize, aged for at least four years, with a dosage of 4 g/L, the 2016 was their first vintage.

I opened this bottle recently, and it was superb. 

2016 Champagne Henriot “L’Inattendue” Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru

Beyond its pale, light golden color, the nose offers fresh, refined, elegant aromas of citrus fruit and minerality combined with stone fruit, floral, and light toasted nuances. The perfectly balanced and focused palate is extremely delicate and charming, with barely perceptible fine bubbles pearling on the tongue, leaving refreshing, chalky, and lemony sensations. The sharp acidity and zesty flavors expand gently until the lingering finish. 

Like a ballerina, it is a majestic expression of complexity, precision, elegance, and sophistication. 

Moreover, at around 110 Euros, it is an exceptional vintage champagne that can easily compete with some of the much better-known vintage champagnes worth four to five times more.

A Champagne that truly deserves its name "L"inattendue" to discover if you have not done it already. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: 18K VIEWS!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

18K VIEWS!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

18k views in the last 7 days on my blog ledomduvin.com

THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!

I created this blog in 2008, 16 years ago already, with no other ambition but to share my tasting notes and wine knowledge, passion, and experiences.

I do not make any money out of it. I just write for the pleasure of writing and sharing. And I have always been independent. No sponsor, no product placement, no gift, no invitation, or anything else. I just write for the pleasure of sharing with whoever might be interested.

Over the years, I have been proudly astounded by the number of views, readers, and comments. These are the reasons that kept me going all these years, and I thank you for them. You are amazing!

The number of views on a weekly basis usually oscillates between a few hundred and a few thousand, which is already great. Yet, occasionally, these past few years, it has exceeded 10 thousand, like today with 18K, which is unbelievable.

You guys are incredible. You've made me very happy! 😁👍🍷

So, a huge THANK YOU to all of you, my followers, and readers.

Have a great day! Take care of yourself and your loved ones.

I raise my glass to all of you! Merci! 😁👍🍷💪👌👏

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #blog #blogger #wineblog #proud #thankyou #merci

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LeDomduVin: Chateau Cheval Blanc Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2018

Chateau Cheval Blanc 2018

The other day, I opened, tasted, and served this beauty of a wine. It was way too young, but what an incredible wine! 

It is almost a "sacrilege" to open such a young wine when you know it will definitely benefit from years, even decades, aging in the cellar. 

However, for some reason, I had been lurking at this bottle for a while and wanted to taste it. That night, I made up my mind and decided to open it for the host and his guest. 

What a coincidence when the guest arrived at the dinner with a bottle of Cheval Blanc 2011. I was like: "Wow, I must have read your mind, I opened a 2018 vintage for tonight!" Even the host was surprised by the coincidence. 

Once again, my instinct served me well, or the odds favored me. 😊👍🍷

2018 Chateau Cheval Blanc Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 

A blend of 54% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Cheval Blanc is a stunning wine! Offering a combination of ripe dark fruits and floral and mineral scents mingling with earthy, spicy, and oaky notes. It is fresh, rich, fruity, complex, sophisticated, elegant, structured, and textured. Well-balanced between the ripeness and richness of the fruit, the complex aromas, the refreshing acidity, and the present yet integrated and velvety tannins, it expands generously from the juicy attack, leading to the layered mid-palate till the lingering finish. A superb wine with great aging potential for those patient enough to wait for it! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: Nice line-up again - Clinet 2010, Margaux 1982 and La Mission Haut-Brion 2016

Nice line-up again - Clinet 2010, Margaux 1982 and La Mission Haut-Brion 2016

The other day, I opened, prepared, and served these 3 great wines:

Chateau Clinet Pomerol 2010

It has a deep, dark, ruby color. The nose is packed with ripe black and red fruit aromas mingling with earthy, spicy notes. The palate is generous, rich, and ample, with blackberry, redcurrant, and coffee flavors with earthy and oaky nuances. Despite its low acidity, slight roughness, present yet integrated tannins, and medium-long finish, it is an enjoyable example of this solar vintage. Although approachable now, it might benefit from a few more years in the cellar. Overall, it is a very nice wine.

Chateau Margaux Margaux 1982

One of the guests brought this bottle. And I was really pleased as 82 Bordeaux are rare nowadays. Surprisingly, it had another two capsules. At first, I feared I was a fake, so I inspected the label. Then, I removed the second capsule and processed to remove the cork, which was as soft as butter and broke despite being extremely cautious and using a double blade (shame I did not have my Durand). The bottom part fell into the bottle. It also had many sediments, so I had to decant it. Per my experience and knowledge, the capsule, cork, and label were all real. It was not a counterfeit. This bottle must have been capsuled with two capsules at the Chateau, as it occurred occasionally in the 80s (I have seen it on other Bordeaux wines).

This Margaux 82 displayed an advanced, bright, light brownish color. The beautiful, delicate, fresh, youthful nose filled the air with secondary and tertiary aromas of red cherry, leather, tobacco, licorice, and underbrush mingling with floral and oaky scents. The palate was delicate, finely chiseled, refined, elegant, and beautifully balanced, with a long finish. Magnificent wine!

Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 2016

Too young, but what an incredible wine. Fresh, rich, concentrated, focused, racy & complex. Gorgeous! 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: "Le Type Rince"

"Le Type Rince"

« Le Type Rince » au lieu de « Le Petit Prince », fallait y penser. 

Je trouve ce jeu de mots hilarant.  Et je pense que Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, qui nous regarde sûrement du haut de son astéroïde (B 3..), doit aussi trouver ça marrant. Lui qui, à l’image de son petit prince, aimait les personnes qui font des choses utiles et qui s’occupent d’autres choses que d’elles-mêmes, tel que « L’Allumeur de Réverbère ».

Sommelier de métier, et qui plus est « français » (comprendre « buveur de vin ») et petit-fils de vigneron, un sourire se dessina immédiatement sur mon visage, puis se transforma en fou-rire à la vue de ce jeu de mots et du dessin qui l'accompagne (dans le style des dessins originaux du livre), admiratif et envieux devant cet humour intelligent.   

Admiratif de ce détournement humoristique d’un tel classique de la littérature.  Et envieux de ne pas y avoir penser avant, alors que j’aime faire des jeux de mots, le vin et le dessin (étant un dessinateur amateur à mes heures), ainsi que l’humour de situation.     

Amusant d’avoir transformé le petit prince en garçon de comptoir (ou caviste), avec son tablier, versant du vin dans des verres, et de l’avoir nommé « le type qui rince ».

Tu as la ref ? Tu sais ce que ça veut dire ? Non… Je t’explique. En langage familier, on dit d’un type « qu’il rince » quand il « paie sa tournée » (c’est-à-dire quand il prend en charge la consommation d’autrui dans un cadre convivial, festif et/ou occasionnel). Par exemple, dans un bar entre potes, tu vas dire : « Aller, c’est ma tournée ! C’est moi qui rince !» 

D’après Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, « Le Petit Prince » est un livre pour les enfants, mais qui a, en fait, été écrit à l’intention des grandes personnes. C’est un peu comme une réflexion du monde adulte à travers les yeux d’un enfant. 

Le Petit Prince est un petit garçon, habitant sur une astéroïde (B 612) avec trois volcans et une rose, qui avant d’arriver sur Terre va visiter plusieurs planètes et rencontrer des gens bizarres : un roi, un vaniteux, un buveur, un allumeur de réverbères, un géographe… et un renard sur Terre, ainsi que l’auteur, un aviateur tombé avec son avion en plein désert.  

Chaque planète (ou astéroïde) visitée et les personnages qui les habitent peuvent être perçue comme une allégorie de la nature humaine.

Un livre à lire et relire, qui pousse à l’imagination, aux rêves, à la réflexion et à se poser des questions aussi bien utiles qu’existentielles.   

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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Merci @douelledereve pour la photo et l'inspiration de ce post.  

PS: C'est un copain qui a posté sur FB ce dessin qu'il a trouvé sur internet. Il ne pouvait pas créditer l'auteur car le site où il l'avait trouvé n'indiquait pas qui était l'auteur. Si l'auteur se reconnait je veux bien le créditer.  Pas sérieux s'abstenir. 

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LeDomduVin: Another "Trio de Choc"

Another "Trio de Choc"

I opened, tasted, and served these bottles over the weekend.

Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne 2012

Compared to the 2015 vintage I opened a few days ago, which was dry, crisp, light, and zesty, the 2012 is an absolute powerhouse: generous, opulent, rich and dense, complex and layered.

A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, this superb champagne offers rich and complex aromas of yellow and stone fruits mingling with warm toasted brioche notes and mineral nuances, developing from the nose to the chewable lingering finish. Absolutely loved it!

Where I found the 2015 needed some food, like oysters, the 2012 is a complete meal on its own. So satisfying!

Vincent Dancer Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru "Tete du Clos" 2014

It was my first time tasting this wine, and this producer, I did not know.

It boasted a rich, deep yellow color. The nose was also rich and intense, displaying stone fruits, yellow apples, wheat, and stony earthiness combined with a haystack's “farm” scents. The palate was dense and ample, textured and structured, with the same aromas as on the nose, yet amplified by a saline, savory note. This wine was both interesting and intriguing.

It tasted like some of those "natural" wines. These barnyard, farmy notes are surely the result of his organic vineyards and hands-off approach in the cellar. His wines are fermented with wild yeasts, aged in barrel for 12-18 months, and bottled without fining or filtration. Tasting this wine triggered the need to taste more of his wines.

Domaine Tortochot Chambertin Grand Cru 2015

In the late 1990s, Chantal Tortochot-Michel took over from her father, Gabriel. She revitalized the estate and improved the winemaking processes to produce a range of vibrant, complex, yet approachable, fruit-forward wines that have the potential to age well.

This 2015 was an ode to the prestigious Chambertin vineyard. Advanced, light brownish color in the glass. Expressive nose, boasting aromas of black and red berries, licorice, and leather, with hints of spice and earth and mineral nuances. The palate is smooth, silky, leathery, earthy, well-balanced, and long. Loved it! It is a "classic" Burgundy.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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