Last night's wines! Nice lineup again.
It may seem that these wines are the same as the ones from Monday night. However, apart from Marc Colin, the other two are different.
On Monday, I opened Jacques Selosse's "V.O." and "Initial" last night.
To compare them, I would say that "Initial" may not seem as sophisticated and refined as "V.O.", yet it is richer and friendlier. It has more mass appeal.
Where "V.O." is light, dry, crisp and tense, "Initial" is fuller, rounder, layered and more laid back.
They are both stunning Champagnes, and if they were women, "V.O." would be elegant, tall and lean, dry and haughty like a pompous yet sophisticated and attractive bourgeoise. While the "Initial" would be more like a smiling, pleasant, curvier, more cheerful, relaxed, chic and cosmopolitan.
Marc Colin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2018 was as stunning as it was on Monday. It is an incredible young wine with great potential, offering a lot of butter, toasted oak and vanilla flavours that should ease and integrate with time. See my previous post for more details.
Georges Noellat Grands-Echezeaux 2018 was quite dry and tight at the opening, austere, subdued and introverted. The nose and palate presented some savouriness with many earthy, spicy/peppery notes.
Maybe a down phase. I was sceptical if it would open up. But, it did, about 1 hour after opening. Displaying ripe dark fruits, earth, spice, and coffee roast, balanced by a good acidity and tannic structure. It is a serious wine. More cerebral than I thought it would be. It is complex, multidimensional, layered and long in a refined yet discreet way.
I loved it for many reasons, but I would have loved to see a bit more depth, character and attitude for a Grands-Echezeaux. Yet, Georges Noellat's wines have never been friendly huge fruit bombs. As mentioned above, they are more cerebral and intellectual. Or, maybe that's just a phase, as the potential is there but a little dormant (IMO).
Time will tell.
Cheers! Santé!
Dom
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