Friday, June 17, 2011

LeDomduVin: 2007 Thierry Tissot Roussette du Bugey Mataret (Altesse) Savoie France





2007 Thierry Tissot Roussette du Bugey Mataret (Altesse) Savoie France




I am very fond of Savoie and Bugey's wines. I love their minerality and texture. Their taste is always versatile, focused, delightful, and easy to drink.


Before getting into the wine of the day, let me introduce you to the Savoie and Bugey vineyards.



Bugey Savoie Wine Map courtesy of Vineyards.com



As you can see on the map above, the vineyards of Savoie and Bugey are primarily located south of Geneva, scattered across three French departments bordering Switzerland.  

The wines of Savoie are made in both the departments of Savoie and Haute-Savoie, to the east of the Rhone River (and west of the Isere River to the South), while the wines from Bugey are made in the department of Ain.  

Roussette de Savoie is an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) for white wine. The AOC covers much of the Western part of the Savoie AOC for wines made entirely or mainly from the regional grape variety called "Altesse" (also known as Roussette). 

Typically, wines designated with the generic "Roussette de Savoie" AOC (rather than with some specific Cru) are blended with up to 50% Chardonnay, while those explicitly marked as “Altesse” are made exclusively from this grape. 

Savoie white wines show best in their youth, yet their high acidity also gives them the potential to age. These white wines are typically crisp and dry, displaying aromas of violets and mountain herbs, complemented by flavors of minerals, bergamot, honey, and hazelnut.

Within the "Roussette de Savoie" AOC, the geographical designation mentioned via the name of the "Village" or “Cru” written on the label includes Frangy, Marestel, Monterminod, and Monthoux. Wines bearing these "Cru" designations are made exclusively from Altesse (see map above). 






The best vineyards are planted on Quaternary alluvial fans (see picture above: Alluvial Fan - Image Courtesy of ScienceDirect.com) along the edges of the Massifs of Bauges and Borne.



Domaine Thierry Tissot



Thierry Tissot is a great producer who deserves more recognition for his wines. They are pure and delightful. I invite you to discover them whenever you have the chance.

After a previous life as an "itinerant winemaker," passing through Italy, Saint-Émilion, Burgundy, and Jongieux, just to name a few, Thierry Tissot planted his high-altitude vines on a hillside named Mataret in 2001, the year he settled in Bugey. 

In the Bugey region in the Ain département of France, wines were previously produced under the two VDQS designations "Bugey" and "Roussette du Bugey". Yet, on May 28, 2009, the "INAO" elevated  "Bugey" and "Roussette du Bugey" to Appellation d'Origine contrôlée (AOC) status.

Most Bugey wines are white, made from the aromatic white variety "Altesse", locally called "Roussette". Yet rosé, red, and sparkling wines are also produced in Bugey. 

The vineyards of the two Bugey appellations cover around 500 hectares (1,200 acres) and are spread over 67 communes in the department of Ain (see map above).


Thierry Tissot is one of the top producers of Bugey. He is located at Vaux-en-Bugey, a quaint little village enclaved between two hills in the foothills of the Alps about 52 kilometers northeast of Lyon and roughly 40 kilometers southeast of Bourg-en-Bresse.

A family property for five generations, this 5-hectare Domaine produces a few other wines made from other grape varieties, such as Jacquere, Chardonnay, Roussette, Mondeuse, and Gamay, under the following appellations:
  • Chardonnay du Bugey 
  • Roussette du Bugey "Coteaux de Mataret" 
  • Rosé du Bugey 
  • Gamay du Bugey 
  • Mondeuse du Bugey "Coteaux de Mataret"
  • Bugey Brut Blanc 
  • Bugey Brut Rosé

Thierry took over the family domaine in 2001, soon after receiving his Diploma as an Oenologist.

Today's wine is his Rousette du Bugey "Mataret." Mataret consists of three hectares of calcareous clay soils with blue marl and veins of shale, facing southwest at an elevation of 350 meters.

The local elders used to talk about the slopes of "Mataret," saying that before the chestnut trees grew, the land produced legendary wines. 

It didn't take long for Thierry to clear 3 hectares of the chestnut forest on the steep slope and plant 18000 vines of Roussette and Mondeuse. These vines are still young, but they already express the complexity of the blue marl contained in the soil.

A local from many generations and a young father, entrepreneur, and explorer, faithful and passionate, Thierry crafts his wines with love, care, and attention. He is a perfectionist, attached to details. Both wines under the name "Mataret" are produced from low-yielding vines and grown pretty much organically.

  • Roussette du Bugey "Mataret" is complex, with great minerality and ripe yellow fruit flavors, very good structure and texture and evident ageing potential (even for a white). 
  • Mondeuse du Bugey "Mataret" is bright, crisp, and mineral, with racy red berry flavors. The grapes are fully destemmed and undergo semi-carbonic maceration to maximize the fruit expression.

Both resulting wines are fine examples of what Bugey has to offer. Thierry Tissot is a producer to keep an eye on, as he is definitely an up-and-coming young and talented winemaker.






2007 Thierry Tissot Roussette du Bugey Mataret (Altesse) Savoie France

Suggested retail price $16-$19
Imported/distributed by Wineberry in NYC

Made from 100% Roussette, also called “Altesse” the most predominant indigenous white grape variety of Savoie, this wine is of great character and flavor, with loads of minerality. Behind its light yellow-greenish color, the nose boasts aromas of slightly toasted hazelnut and dried fruit with blossom, floral hints. The palate of this mountainous wine unfolds with lemon zest and yellow fruit flavors intermingled with notes of sea brine, minerals, and hay. The finish is very long and has touches of grapefruit, sherry, and more minerality. Versatile, crisp, coating, complex yet easy going, it will pair greatly with cheeses, fondue, pâté, and ham.

Cheers! Santé!

Enjoy!,

LeDomduVin

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