Nine wonderful wines to drink for Christmas and New Year eve!

Nine wonderful wines to drink for Christmas and New Year eve!

Perhaps, you may wonder what a wine buyer like me drinks or would love to drink for Christmas and New Year eve. Well, I thought about it and decided to share with you the nine wines that first came to my mind amongst all the wines that we have in the store.

Of course, these are my choices and this short list entirely reflects my palate. I could have chose dozens of other wines, but these were really the ones that I wanted the most for innumerable reasons. Surprisingly, for a Spanish wine lover, I didn't chose any Spanish wines. Oh well, I will catch up on some other occasions next year.

I hope that this little selection will generate some inspiration for your own celebration dinners and parties. Happy holidays to you all! And thanks for your comments and faithful reading! Let's hope that next year I will find the time to write even more and about more interesting staff. Cheers! Sante!

NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rose France
Suggested retail price $78-$85
Imported/Distributed by T-Edward in NYC

One of the most sought-after Champagne house in the US market and for the longest time very difficult to find, Billecart-Salmon is back with a revenge to take its rightful place at the top of the greatest Champagne. Flavorful, crisp, focus, delicate and harmonious, Billecart-Salmon Brut rose will please your taste buds in ways that few champagne brands do.


2008 Figge "Pelio" vineyard Chardonnay Monterrey California
Suggested retail price $32-$35
Imported/Distributed by T-Edward in NYC

Figge Cellars is an artisanal boutique winery producing tiny amounts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah wines from various vineyards benefiting of the cool climate of Monterey, California.Their Chardonnay "Pelio" vineyard has a Meursault-esque profile, offering a well rounded, fresh, creamy palate with ripe white and yellow fruit flavors, nicely framed by toasted oak nuances.


2007 Vieux Donjon Blanc Chateauneuf du Pape Rhone France
Suggested retail price $33-$36
Imported/Distributed by Lauber in NYC

Better known for their reds, Vieux Donjon is a quintessential figure in the Chateauneuf du Pape decor, producing classic, earthy and full-flavored wines. Crafted with equal shares of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Clairette, it is rich, persistent and approachable with generous yellow fruits, lot of minerality and age potential.


2008 Albert Mann Pinot Noir "Clos de la Faille" Alsace France
Suggested retail price $42-$46
Imported/Distributed by Weygandt in NYC

Albert Mann is one of the few inescapable winemakers of Alsace. Organically managed and "Ecocert" certified, and better known for his whites, (his Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru is a standard of excellence), this domaine also produces a tiny amount of succulent Pinot Noir, which deserves more attention. The carefully hand-harvested grapes come from a "Clos" (single vineyard usually delimited by a small wall surrounding it) of 1 hectare, perfectly partitioned and remarkably situated right in a breach area of a fault. The Clos is enclaved between the mountains of the Vosges and the small dry plot of land covered with bushes of amelanchiers, more typical to the Mediterranean area, orchids Ophrys sphegodes, Orchis mascula, and other flowers and animals, characteristic to this protected area, classified as biotope. Aged in oak, this Pinot Noir shows a surprisingly deep ruby color. The nose boasts spicy red fruit flavors combined with earthy, toasted notes, and slight hints of coffee and tar. The palate is fairly rich and expressive, touch spicy, with generous texture and juicy fruit enhancing the lingering finish.


2009 Grosjean Torrette Vallee D'Aoste Italy
Suggested retail price $20-$24
Imported/Distributed by Madrose/Rosenthal in NYC

Ancient kingdom squeezed between France, Switzerland and Piedmont, too often overlooked, Valley d'Aoste, located southeast of the Mont-Blanc mountain in the alpine hills of the northwestern part of Italy, offers bright, mineral wines made from indigenous grape varieties. Made with local Petite Rouge grapes, Torrette from GrosJean taste like a bowl of freshly crushed red cherries, refreshing with racy acidity and seductive minerality.


2006 Produttori dei Barbaresco Barbaresco Piedmont Italy
Suggested retail price $32-$35
Imported/Distributed by VIAS in NYC

Nestled in the hilltop village of Barbaresco, Produttori is the most ancient cooperative of Barbaresco, producing traditional, earthy style Nebbiolo based wines from some of the most respected Crus and single vineyards of the area. Their introductory Barbaresco is a balanced, concentrated, juicy and pleasing wine with refreshing acidity that carries the fruit through the finish and adds brightness to the lingering, earthy finish.


2005 Chateau Lagrange Saint Julien Bordeaux France
Suggested retail price $62-$68
Imported/Distributed by BNP in NYC

Although owned by the Suntory group, Chateau Lagrange kept its magnificence and traditional style, offering fresh red berries and cherry enhanced by great acidity and framed by present yet integrated tannins. Benefiting of exceptional conditions, 2005 is a vintage that marked the last decade for its complexity, structure and ripeness of fruit and Chateau Lagrange delivers all of these qualities in very charming and inviting ways.


2004 L'Arco "Pario" Rosso Veronese Veneto Italy
Suggested retail price $43-$47
Imported/Distributed by Lieber Brothers in NYC

A wonderful new Italian Cantina, l'Arco is the result of a collaboration between the successful Brazilian entrepreneur Luiz Alberto Barichello and Luca Fedrigo, vineyard foreman and assistant for the renowned Giuessppe Quintarelli. Luca Fedrigo crafts Veneto wines that have similar density, texture and complexity as those from Quintarelli for much lesser prices. L'Arco "Pario" Rosso Veronese is a traditional Valpolicella blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara and, in very small percentages, Croatina, made in a combined Ripasso-Amarone style and aged for approximately 3 years in large Slovenian oak. The result is superb, showing a dark ruby red color, beautifully layered inciting bouquet and rich mouth-feel with exuberant ripe dark fruits, figs, earthy, autumnal aromas and flavors. A refine companion for meat dishes and mellow cheeses, after about 2 hours in a decanter, it will be excellent with game and grilled meats.


NV D'Arlay Macvin Du Jura Sweet Red Liquor wine Jura France
Suggested retail price $41-$44
Imported/Distributed by Alain Juguenet Selection in NYC

Located in the heart of the Jura vineyards, the medieval Chateau d'Arlay has been producing stellar, classic "Côtes du Jura" red and whites, and more traditionally Vin Jaune and Macvin du Jura for centuries. Some authors have even written that Arlay was one of the oldest Vineyard Castle of France. Their Macvin is a fantastic sweet fortified red wine, meaning that alcohol has been added to the must to stop the fermentation and retain residual sugar, but also slightly increasing the alcohol level. D'Arlay Macvin is a blend of 2/3 of fresh must 100% Pinot Noir with 1/3 marc-brandy (aged for 4 years in cask), then matured for 1 year in old barrels. The result is a fantastic, rich and unctuous sweet red wine layered with tons of aromas and flavors and slight oxidative notes, like most Jura wines. It pairs well with chocolate, wild red berries and nutty dessert like pear-almond tart. To be served at moderate temperature.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

NV Sieur D’Arques Toques et Clochers Crémant de Limoux Languedoc France

It is the end of the year, and very soon, you will have to think about celebrating with friends and/or family, and if not done already, start to plan the food and beverages for your parties whether at home or invited elsewhere.

Generally, in these festive times, what comes to mind is very often the noise of a cork popping up from a bottle of bubbly jealously chosen or kept for these special occasions.

However, due to the recession and lack of motivation to spend a lot of money, unable to foresee the immediate future of the next 3-6 months to come, people in general will surely be more cautious this year than any previous year. They will surely spend less, but they will spend a little bit still. It is in our nature.

Humans tend to celebrate whenever they can, which lately doesn’t happen so often, or let say, less often compared to a few years ago. Yet, we need these moments of joy around family and friends. It important. It is tradition. It is a good excuse. Therefore, people in general will search for very good values, as the last 6-9 months have demonstrated huge increases in sales for still wines under $15 and sparkling wines under $25-$30.

They are plenty of good Champagne around $25-$35, here are just a few of my favorite from the store selection (www.heightschateau.com):

• Caravelle NV Brut Cuvèe Nina,
  
• Chapuy NV Brut Rose Tradition,
  
• Chapuy NV Brut Tradition,
  
• Chapuy NV Reserve Blanc De Blancs,
  
• De Montoux NV Brut Champagne,
  
• Demilly De Baere NV Brut Carte D' Or,
  
• Demoiselle Brut NV Tête de Cuvée,
  
• Duval Leroy Brut,
  
• Ellner Reserve Brut,
  
• Gardet Brut NV Cuvée Saint Flavy,
  
• Gardet NV Pol Gardere Brut,
  
• Gonet & Fils NV Reserve Brut Blanc,
  
• Gonet & Fils NV Rose Premier Cru Bru,
  
• Gosset Brut NV Excellence,
  
• Marc Hebrart Brut,
• Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Blue Label, and more...

Yet, it seems that Prosecco, Cava, Crémant and other sparkling wines under $20, are now more subject to particular attention from the customers.

Therefore, always in my quest to introduce you to lesser known regions, producers and wines at excellent value, I would like to introduce you to a delightful sparkling wine from the Languedoc: Crémant de Limoux from Toques et Clochers (Sieur D’Arques). Sieur d’Arques is a winery recognized and often prized for its excellent Blanquette de Limoux wines.

But what is Blanquette de Limoux?

Blanquette de Limoux is a fairly crisp, friendly and delightful sparkling white wine produced around the city of Limoux, about 26 kilometers southwest of the magnificent medieval town of Carcassonne, in the southwest of France, near the “Pyrénées Orientales”. Neighbor to Corbières and located in the northwestern part of Roussillon and western part of the Languedoc, this appellation is often considered part of the Languedoc area.

The name Blanquette de Limoux has been used for a long time for the sparkling wines from Limoux. "Blanquette" actually just means "white" in the local Occitan language. Blanquette de Limoux can contain three grape varieties: Mauzac, which must constitute a minimum of 90% of the wine, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Prior to the 1990 introduction of the Crémant de Limoux AOC, the use of Mauzac was optional. The change to the mandatory minimum of 90% Mauzac in the AOC regulations of Blanquette de Limoux was seen as a safeguard in maintaining the traditional style of Blanquette de Limoux and preserving the use of the local Mauzac grape which is declining in worldwide plantings. The taste of this Mauzac based wine is unique, with apple flavors and distinctive aromas of fresh cut grass that can be identified in blind tastings.

Vinification

The grape varieties are vinified separately before being assembled and bottled. Just before bottling, a liqueur de tirage is added to the blend so that a second fermentation will take place in the bottle. The carbon dioxide produced during this second fermentation is trapped in the bottle and gives the wine its effervescence. After nine months, the bottles are opened and disgorged before a final corking.

And what is Crémant de Limoux?

When the term Crémant was introduced for non-Champagne sparkling wines in France, an AOC for more "modern" (or internationally styled) sparkling wines, was created in 1990. The origin of that decision occurred a year earlier, in 1989, when the producers of Limoux had to decided on whether or not they wanted to maintain the traditional makings of Blanquette de Limoux based on Mauzac or relax the AOC regulations to allow the introduction of more Chenin blanc and Chardonnay to create internationally recognized flavors. Limoux producers were split on what direction they wanted to go, so the provisional appellation of Crémant de Limoux was introduced to allow the producers to make whichever style of sparkling wine that they preferred and still sell it under an AOC designation. A deadline was set in 1994 for the least used AOC designation to be phased out but the deadline passed without Crémant de Limoux or Blanquette de Limoux making significant progress and both AOC continue to co-exist today.

These Crémant de Limoux wines differ primarily from Blanquette de Limoux in their grape composition with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc as the main varieties. Together they are not to exceed 90% of the wines. For Chenin blanc, a minimum of 20% and a maximum of 40% must be used. Mauzac and Pinot Noir are accessory grape varieties and may not exceed 20% together with Pinot Noir itself not exceeding 10%. Thus, Crémant de Limoux contains 40-70% Chardonnay, 20-40% Chenin Blanc, 10-20% Mauzac and 0-10% Pinot Noir. AOC regulations dictate that the wine must be aged for a least a year on the lees prior to disgorgement. Over 40 villages around the city of Limoux are permitted to make Crémant de Limoux.

NV Sieur D’Arques Toques et Clochers Crémant de Limoux Languedoc France

Sieur d’Arques is a winery located in the western part of the village of Limoux, on the avenue du Mauzac (which is the name of the main grape variety used for the production of Blanquette de Limoux).

The History of the Languedoc vineyard dates back to the 5 th century BC when the Greeks first introduced grape vines and their cultural practices. It was in 1531, one century before Dom Pérignon, that wines from Limoux stepped onto the world stage thanks to Benedictine nuns from the St Hilaire Abbey, a neighboring village, who created the first sparkling wine in the world: La Blanquette de Limoux.

The earliest written references to Blanquette de Limoux can be traced back to the lord of the region, “le Sieur d’Arques” who swigged down “flasks of Blanquette” to celebrate his victories. Four centuries later, in 1946, the founding winemakers of this winery christened their wine, Sieur d’Arques. Situated at the crossroads between two climatic influences, the Limoux terroir is rich in diversity.

The enologists and winemakers of Sieur d’Arques, pioneers in parcel-based terroir selection, have taken the full measure of this invaluable diversity. For over twenty years, they have been committed to an innovative, quality-focused approach highlighting four major Terroirs and selecting only those plots for which the micro-climates, soils, topographies and elevations are suited to the production of healthy, ripe grapes.

Hence, to the east, the Mediterranean influence produces a dry, hot climate. To the west, the temperate climate is due to the influence of the Atlantic, which guarantees both optimal sun and enough rain all year. In the center of the appellation, the two influences merge, while a cooler climate dominates in the south closer to the Pyrénées. To this must be added the mainly limestone clay soil and vineyards spread out from 200 to 500 meters elevation. These are the essential characteristics of a land full of promise ideal for crafting innovative wines.

Les Vignerons du Sieur d’Arques have optimized the exceptional diversity of their 2800 hectares of vineyard to produce supremely delicate, elegant sparkling wines, great white Chardonnays and racy reds highly characteristic of this singular Terroir.

Since 1990, this identity, unique in France, has distinguished the excellence of wines and winemakers of Sieur d’Arques in Limoux. With its four Terroirs and forty two Church bell towers, Limoux benefits from an exceptional situation in Languedoc symbolized by the Toques & Clochers auction, held every year, that continues to inspire the winemakers to give the best of themselves to produce exceptional wines.




NV Sieur D’Arques Toques et Clochers Crémant de Limoux Languedoc France
Suggested retail price $17-$20
Imported/Distributed by …

Made from a blend of Chardonnay, Chenin and Mauzac, this crémant (or sparkling wine) is the product of grapes carefully selected at each step of production.

It shows a pale yellow color with green reflects and delicate, refined bubbles. The nose is quite expressive, clean and fresh, dry, with aromas of white flowers and white core fruit intermingled with white blossom notes and slightly toasted, brioche hints. Nice, delicate and focus, the palate is bright and lively offering the same white flowers and core fruit flavors. The finish is inviting and warm with yeasty, toasted notes along with brioche and spicy hints. A delicious, versatile sparkling to enjoy for any occasion. It is a sure value under $20. The delicacy of Chardonnay greatly contributes to its elegance and harmony. Recognized by top Sommeliers and wine boutiques, this sparkling wine will marry most refine dishes.

Enjoy,

LeDom du Vin

Info about Blanquette et Crémant de Limoux partly taken and edited from Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limoux_wine) and all info about the winery mostly taken and barely edited from the winery website at www.sieurd’arques.com

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

"Sweet" and "Fruity": two misleading and misused words in the wine vocabulary of the everyday average wine consumers & Short Simplified Wine Lexicon

"Sweet" and "Fruity": two misleading and misused words
in the wine vocabulary of the everyday average wine consumers,
more especially when it comes to dry wines.

Is it a dry wine? It is not too fruity, I hope? Is it really fruity? I hope it is not too sweet? Is it sweet?

These justifiable, yet somewhat annoying, and recurring questions come back way too often, in my opinions, in wine stores or restaurants and other eateries, and I think it is time to kill a myth!

“Sweet” and especially “fruity” are two misleading and misused words in the wine vocabulary of the everyday average wine consumers, more especially when it comes to dry wines. Especially in the US market, where sugar is omnipresent everywhere in everything you can eat or drink.

Surely they are not the only one, but the American's palate is usually quite inclined to sweeter things. More especially when it comes to wine, due to, unfortunately, lack of good wine education and lack of real interest from the average consumers up until the beginning of last decade. Although, I must say, it is way much better now and I will develop further by saying that: the average New Yorker, drinking wines from all around the world, is surely more knowledgeable than the average French, who generally get some pride in drinking wines locally made in his or her region of origin, i.e.: a "Bordelais" usually drinks Bordeaux and rarely Burgundy, or someone from the Loire will rarely taste Rhone wines, and Vice Versa...).

The fault is also to be put on the fact that Americans have way too many occasions to encounter “White Zinfandel” and “Manischewitz” and other so called “flavored wines” and “jug wines”, which taste more like sugar products vaguely tasting like grape juice, rather than proper wines.

When wine amateurs, connoisseurs and professionals talk about sweet wines (whether white, rosé, red or sparkling) they usually refer to dessert wines or fortified wines or muted wines or naturally sweet wines, which underwent certain types of fermentation and vinification to achieve desired styles of sweet wine.

Some are very well-known like, just to name a few: Sauternes in Bordeaux, Monbazillac in Bergerac; Coteaux du Layon and Vouvray in the Loire; Muscat de Beaume de Venise in the Rhone; Banyuls, Muscat de Rivesalte and Maury in the Roussillon; Jurançon in the Southwest of France; Tokaji in Hungary; Port in Portugal; Sherry-Jerez in Spain; Muscato and Vin Santo in Italy; Muscat in Greece; and many more, etc..

Yet, it seems that every-time a consumer enter a wine store, (educated or not; or having minimum wine knowledge or not), if he or she asks if a wine is fruity or sweet, they often refer to sweetness in dry wines, thinking about sugar. Well it is a big misconception.

Sweet: usually means “with sugar”, yet in wine vocabulary it predominantly refers to ripeness. And ripeness mainly refers to the ripeness and opulence of the fruit aromas and flavors when you taste the wine. Ripeness often replace the word sweet, referencing about the natural sweetness of the wine because of the ripeness of the grapes at harvest time and the fruity sensation procured in the palate due to that ripeness, not because of the residual sugar in the wine once bottled. In fact, sweet is only used to characterize specifically certain wines, usually sweet wines for the reasons cited above.

And "Fruity" is also a misconception of sweetness. Any dry still or sparkling wines can be fruity without referencing the sweetness. Fruity in wine vocabulary refers to the fruit sensation in the palate often paired with juiciness, not the amount of sweetness that your taste buds may have sensed while tasting. For example, Sauvignon based wines are usually very dry; some can be very lemony, grassy and green with high acidity yet they remain fruity. High elevation wines that are crisp, refreshing, rather light and full of minerals can also be very dry, lean and acidic yet they are fruity. Meaning that you can still feel the sensation of fruit in the palate, even if minimal compared to riper, fuller wines.

By definition, except when desired for some, most wines are dry, because the fermentation process during the vinification is the action of the yeasts and other bacterias to transform the residual sugar of grape juice unto alcohol. Which means that sugar level during fermentation will diminish while alcohol level will increase, and hopefully in most cases, will stop naturally around the desired percentage of alcohol (11.5 to 14.5%+ depending of the wine, its area of origin, the rules of the appellation of origin and desired producer's style).

Although, lately, with the rising of the temperatures and climate changes, certain wines have higher alcohol content. Also certain regions started to produce wines where it will not have been possible 20-30 years ago. It is partly due to the evolution of techniques, but mainly to the adaptability of the Vitis Vinifera and other species of Vitis which can sustain the most extreme conditions (Terroir, soil, climate and temperature variations, etc...). And last but not least, it is also due to the daring human ambitions to continuously experience everything everywhere and the constant demand from the market to explore new frontiers and new flavors.

Therefore, unless obtained because of the producer’s desired style or the region’s ancestral traditions of sweet and/or fortified and/or muted and /or Naturally sweet wines (Sauternes, Tokaji, Ice Wine, Muscat, Porto, Banyuls, etc…); or even because a specific region’s climate, Terroir and appropriate grape varieties are commanding for a certain amount of natural residual sugar during and/or after fermentation; or because the appellation or area of production authorizes Chaptalization (which means the addition of sugar during fermentation to increase sugar content of the wine’s must to increase sweetness and alcohol level); or because, at last, the vintage was mediocre and a bit of sugar should enhance the fruit in the final product without altering it; most produced wines are dry, not "sweet" nor "fruity" (in the sense of sweet).

I will repeat it one more time to kill the myth and "obliviate" (see Harry Potter) this recurring misconception: Unless due to all the above conditions, traditions, styles and other ancestral methods, most of the wines produce in the world are dry, NOT sweet. And fruity, in most scenarios, and more especially in the wine language and lexicon used by most wine amateurs and connoisseurs, Sommeliers, Wine Buyers and other wine professionals, “fruity” doesn’t mean sweet. Proof is when you bite a lemon or even better, a lime: it is juicy and fruity (because it is a fruit), yet it is sour (but still, fruity and definitely not sweet).

Think about it next time your in a store. Whatever you may think and whether or not you agree with me after reading this post, my point does make sense: sweet and fruity are definitely two misleading and misused words in the wine vocabulary of the everyday average wine consumers, especially when it comes to dry wines (sweet refer to ripeness and fruity doesn't mean sweet).

Amongst the 195 (or 194 depending if you include Taiwan or not) countries that are in the world, 70+ of them produce some wines that are predominantly still and sparkling dry wines, only few of them produce mainly sweet wines.

These 70+ wine-producing countries are led by a pack of 20 countries that are the most productive and surely some of the most anciently established wine-producing countries. And most of them produce mainly dry wines, with a few sweet, except some countries of the eastern part of Europe, which do it more by traditions and appropriate climate and Terroir. But even that is changing. They are now producing more dry wines due to the demand of the world market.

Here is the list of the 70(+) wine-producing countries, for your own knowledge, by Alphabetical order (it is easier and will avoid conflicts). You probably known most of them but I’m sure that you might be surprised:

Albania, Algeria, Argentina, Armenia, Australia, Austria, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Belgium, Bolivia, Bosnia Herzegovina, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, Chile, China, Croatia, Cuba, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Egypt, Ethiopia, France, Georgia, Germany, Greece, Hungary, India, Israel, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Lebanon, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macedonia, Madagascar, Malta, Syria, Mexico, Moldova, Morocco, New Zealand, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Portugal, Reunion Romania, Russia, Serbia and Montenegro, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Africa, Spain, Switzerland, Tajikistan, The Netherlands, Tunisia, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, United kingdom, United States, Uruguay, Uzbekistan, Venezuela, Zimbabwe

As I say earlier, all these 70(+) wine producing countries produce more dry wines all together than sweet wines. Therefore, to kill the myth of the misleading and misused words “sweet” and “fruity” in wine, and rectify the meaning of certain words that you may have heard some many times by your local wine specialist, without really or fully understanding what he or she meant; here is my little lexicon of wine vocabulary and the meaning of some of these metaphorical words that can somewhat sound quite obscure without an explanation.

Short Simplified Wine Lexicon

• Sweet: usually means “with sugar”, yet in wine vocabulary it predominantly refers to ripeness.

• Ripeness: refers to the ripeness and opulence of the fruit aromas and flavors; it often replace the word sweet, referencing the natural sweetness of the wine because of the ripeness of the grapes at harvest time, not because of the residual sugar in the wine once bottled.

• Fruity: doesn’t mean that the wine is necessarily sweet, in the sense of sugary. It may evoke the sweetness of the fruit flavor in the wine because of its ripeness, opulence and juiciness; but once again doesn’t mean that the wine is necessarily sweet, it just refers to a certain fruitiness and/or ripeness with more fruit present in the palate than acidity or tannins, common indicator of dryness.

• Opulence: refers somewhat to the texture, but more precisely to the bold structure of a generous wine made from really ripe grapes or because the grape variety generate opulence (Zinfandel, Petite Syrah, Garnacha, Monastrell, etc…).

• Refreshing: usually refers to great or higher acidity, within lighter white or red or rosé wines, sensation of freshness or brightness in the palate.

• Acidity: puckering and sour if not properly focus and integrated with the fruit, it is still a very important element of the wine, which allows freshness, crispiness, brightness, vibrancy, delicateness, and focus of the wine, part important of the texture and the structure like the tannins. It allows for long age potential.

• Tannins: green if unripe, they can be sour, green, bitter, tight and too present. Yet if integrated to the fruit and combined with the acidity, they enhance the wine, consolidate its texture and frame is structure. It allows for long age potential.

• Disjointed: when all components, fruit, acid, tannins and other parts of the wine are not harmoniously intermingled together.

To be continued…. (it is too late now, I have to go to bed but I will complete and develop it soon, promises).

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

Step into the Green! Drink more Biodynamic, Biologique and Organic wines (and spirits and food) from sustainable culture and respect the environment! Support the right causes for the Planet and all the people suffering all around the globe! Also follow projects and products from the Fair Trade, an organized social movement and market-based approach that aims to help producers in developing countries obtain better trading conditions and promote sustainability. Also support 1% for the Planet, an alliance of businesses that donate at least 1% of their annual revenues to environmental organizations worldwide. "Commerce Equitable" or "Fair Trade" is evidently and more than ever a needed movement connecting producers and customers, to be aware of others and their cultural and traditional products based on high quality, natural components and craftsmanship.

2008 GrosJean Frères Torrette Red Vallée d’Aoste Quart Italy

Last year around the same period, I wrote a post about great wines from the Valle d’Aosta, and a few days ago, I just tried another wine from this incredible region, a true “Alibaba’s cavern” full of wine gems. So, here we go again! Back in the “Vallée d’Aoste” (as we say in French)!

This somewhat undiscovered micro-region that encompasses some of the most remote highest vineyards in Europe, is located at the far northwestern part of Italy, bordering France to the west, Switzerland to the north and Piedmont to the southeast.

Valle d’Aosta is like a minuscule dot on the world map. Often overlooked and surprisingly insignificant for the novices and other unworthy of its magnificence and history, this ancient kingdom thrones in a beautiful reclusive valley surrounded by the Alpine foothills about 50 kilometers southeast of the Mont Blanc Mountain.

The Vallée is a haven of peace and quiet where time seems to have stopped and the air seems to be pure, enhancing the untouched surrounding nature, barely tamed by human hands. Out of rather unknown indigenous grapes like Fumin, Petite Rouge, Petite Arvine, etc…Aosta’s winemakers produce fantastic whites and reds that are bright, refreshing, earthy, juicy and loaded with minerality. I love most wines from the Valle d’Aosta. They are as vibrant and limpid as a cold mountain spring, full of minerals, intense and delicate, characteristic, inviting and charming. Somewhat irresistible and delightful!

When Blake from Madrose/Rosenthal, (one of my favorite wine importers in the US for their portfolio and the consistency and the focus of their wines), came to the store to introduce me to a few new wines, and more especially to GrosJean Torrette, I was really excited to verify if GrosJean Torrette was as great as their Gamay, which evidently, immediately I tasted it became one of the new benchmarks of the store. And it exceeded my expectation.

2008 GrosJean Frères Torrette Red Wine Vallée d’Aoste Quart Italy

Grosjean Frères winery is located on the border of the towns of Quart and Saint Christophe in the Valle d'Aosta. The vines planted initially, in addition to the traditional Petit Rouge, were Gamay, Pinot Noir and Petite Arvine. Later the native Fumin, Cornalin, Prëmetta and Vuillermin were also planted.

Although the GrosJean family has for centuries made and kept wines (and nuts) for the long winter months in the mountains, the winery’s story really started in 1969, when the family members began to bottle their own wines for presentation at "The Exposition des vins du Val d'Aoste". This exhibition stimulated the initiative of increasing the vineyards, which brought the company from 3,000 square meters to the actual 7 hectares of vineyards, with the involvement of the 5 children, thus the name "Grosjean Frères" (meaning Grosjean "brothers" in French).

Grosjean Frères is part of the Association of "Viticulteurs Encaveurs" Valdostan which brings together 24 small producers who were able to characterize the quality and typicality of their wines produced in the Valle d'Aosta DOC. This group of tenants has a close relationship with the land (Valle d'Aosta) and personally follows all stages of production, from vineyard to cellar to retail sale.

The "Viticulteurs Encaveurs" devote great attention to two important factors, farming techniques and traditional vinification (usually handed down from father to son), which are then both compared to new ideas and technologies, always with a view to use friendly and natural agriculture.

Torrette, too often described as the grape variety, is in fact an area part of the central valley or "Valle Centrale", Valle d’Aosta most productive zone. Valle Centrale is further sub-divided into four areas, all still within the Valle d'Aoste DOC:

• Enfer d'Arvier (around the village of Arvier),

• Torrette (located east of Arvier and occupying a large portion of the Valle d'Aosta with the largest production),

• And the villages of Nus and Chambave (making interesting reds).

“Torrette” produces a soft, delicate, harmonious red wine, with juicy red and dark fruit characteristics. It is the most produced wine in the Aosta region; and the zone of production is the biggest compared to all other Valle d’Aosta D.O.C. (Denomination of Controlled Origin).

Torrette wines are predominantly crafted with Petite Rouge (80% minimum for most, up to 100% for some), complemented by Vien de Nus, Doucet, Fumin and/or Mayolet. Carefully hand-harvested and destemmed, the grapes’ vinification usually occurred in stainless tanks, but can be partially done in wooden barrels, depending of the desired style and the producer.


2008 GrosJean Frères Torrette Red Wine Vallée d’Aoste Quart Italy
Suggested retail price $21-$24
Imported/Distributed by Madrose/Rosenthal

This Torette is a blend 80% Petite Rouge and 20% Vien de Nus, Doucet, Fumin and Mayolet grapes from high altitude vineyards, about 550 to 650 m altitude, planted on steep slopes (30-60%) of loose soil of moraine with ideal south and south-west exposure. The wine was crafted in stainless steel tanks where it underwent a short maceration of 4-5 days, which explain the light color, and was then fermented. After fermentation, the wine rested for at least 3-6 months in stainless steel tanks to keep the freshness before bottling.

The resulting wine, 2008 GrosJean Frères Torrette Red, is beautiful and highly recommended. What a wine! Light to medium ruby color in the glass with medium to good intensity. The nose is fresh, mineral, with lovely yet discreet red-dark berries aromas. The palate is soft, gentle, well balanced, juicy, structured and focus, and highly versatile to suit any kind of dishes. Their Gamay was brighter with more acidity and lighter fruit, this Torrette is somewhat fuller and rounder, yet with great acidity, textured and length. Excellent!

Like Lagrein in Südtirol; Grignolino in Piedmont; Gamay in Loire and Burgundy and Valle d’Aosta; Dornfelder and Spätburgunder in Germany; or even Blaufrankisch, Saint Laurent, and Zweigelt in Austria; Petite Rouge and all the above grapes varieties, produce extremely friendly, somewhat light to medium, very versatile, fruity, fresh red wines that are delightfully easy to drink for any occasion. Ask your local wine store for more info (and me of course, by email or if you pass by Heights Chateau at 123 Atlantic ave, Brooklyn, NY 11201).

Enjoy!

LeDom du Vin

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