Wednesday, May 28, 2025

LeDomduVin: Challenges of the Wine Industry

 




Challenges of the Wine Industry


It is no news that the wine industry has faced numerous challenges over the past decades, particularly in the last five years (post-COVID).

Discussing the subject with various people in the wine industry and reading more posts and articles over the last six to eight months inspired me to create this image/collage (header) and share my views on these challenges on my blog as well.

Many environmental, demographic, and economic factors influence these challenges, and they vary from one country to the next. Because going case by case would be too long, I will provide further details on these challenges for the wine industry as a whole, meaning generally speaking.   

Among all of them, there are 5 main recurring challenges at the core of this global situation that have worsened over the past five years.    

These five key challenges impacting the wine industry include environmental challenges, economic shifts, demographic and preference changes, price fluctuations, and declining production. Climate change poses a significant threat to grape cultivation, while economic factors, such as declining sales and shifting consumer preferences, disrupt the market. Therefore, prices are unavoidably impacted while production declines for various reasons. 

Let's delve into these challenges to gain a deeper understanding of why and how they affect the entire wine industry, and ultimately, what it means for the future.  

The 5 main challenges are related to:

  1. Climate change
  2. Decreasing sales
  3. Declining consumption (due to changes in demographics and preferences)
  4. Prices (shifting/fluctuations)
  5. Production decline

1. Climate Change


The primary challenge facing the wine industry is climate change. Rising temperatures and shifting weather patterns, including longer and colder winters extending into spring and drier or wetter summers and falls, threaten traditional wine-growing regions. 

After dormancy during winter, the vine's growing season typically spans from spring to fall. During this time, the grapevines undergo several key stages: budding, flowering, veraison (fruit development), ripening, and eventually, harvest. 

Spring (Late Winter/Early Spring - March/April): Budding

Vines begin to come out of dormancy as temperatures rise, and bud break occurs, marking the beginning of the vine's annual growth cycle. Vines start to wake up and release new shoots from their buds. If the low winter temperatures persist for too long, they can affect and delay budding by increasing frost damage.  


Spring/Summer (Mid Spring-Early Summer - May/June): Flowering

In the Northern Hemisphere, flowering typically occurs around May. Flower clusters appear, and pollination takes place, resulting in the formation of small green grapes later in June. If flowering happens too early due to warmer temperatures, it can increase the risk of frost damage. 

Freezing temperatures damage the plant's tissues, especially the young, tender green shoots and buds. This damage can lead to a reduction in yield, loss of buds and shoots, and even damage to the trunk and cordons. This has been a recurring issue in France over the past 5 to 15 years.

In Bordeaux, for example, recent years have seen significant recurrent vine damage due to frost. The most recent severe frost was in April 2017, causing widespread damage and a 40% drop in the harvest. Estimates suggest that up to 70% of vineyards experienced some damage, with some suffering losses of 80% or more. The frost resulted in a 40% decrease in the 2017 harvest, with estimated financial losses of € 1.6 billion.   

Different techniques are allowed to warm up the vineyards to prevent frost damage when lower temperatures are expected to dip below the freezing level during the night and early morning. 

In recent years, winegrowers have employed a variety of techniques to combat frost damage, including traditional methods such as candles and heaters, as well as more advanced techniques like wind machines, helicopters, and even sprinklers. While some methods are more sustainable, others are more energy-intensive or expensive.  

Burning candles is one of the most used techniques. It creates a slight increase in temperature and disrupts the settling of cold air, preventing frost formation. Yet, it only works until a certain level of cold is reached, and it increases the temperature in the air by only 1 or 2 degrees. Therefore, it might not be very efficient if the frost worsens or lingers. Moreover, it can prove rather expensive if the frost lasts.  

Electric or fossil-fueled heaters can raise the temperature of the air around the vines; however, they are more expensive and less sustainable than candles and may require someone to supervise them constantly.   

Other techniques used mainly by the wealthiest Chateaux and Domaines include wind machines that stir up the air, mixing warmer air from above with the cooler air near the ground, preventing frost. Some also use helicopters that use their blades to stir up the air, similar to wind machines, but they are expensive to operate and require significant capital investment. 

Some may use sprinklers, which consist of applying water to the vines to create a layer of ice, which in turn protects the buds by releasing latent heat as the water freezes. Yet, it might prove quite costly in the end, considering the large quantity of water required and the associated costs.   

Anti-frost covers also exist; these covers, placed on trellising wire, create a barrier between the vines and freezing air. However, they are not widely used; for instance, in France, they are prohibited. A small number of growers and winemakers, such as Loïc Pasquet, have been advocating for the legalization of the use of these anti-frost covers for several years, which could provide a more sustainable and cost-effective alternative.   

However, regardless of the techniques used, they always imply unplanned extra labor costs, as additional personnel are often required to apply these techniques, weakening the growers' and producers' financials that could have been used for other needs, such as repairs to vineyards and cellars, new projects, or expansions.   


Summer (Late Spring and Summer - Late June, July, August to early September): Veraison and ripening

Grapes begin to grow and develop, undergoing a process called veraison, during which they change color and start to accumulate sugar. 

Over the last decade, more frequent rainfall and humid conditions, as well as violent storms, have increased the risk of mildew and other vine diseases, along with flash flooding and soil erosion.   

Hail and violent storms can inflict significant damage on vineyards, leading to reduced yields, compromised grape quality, and potentially long-term vine health issues. The severity of the damage can vary depending on the timing and intensity of the storm, as well as the stage of vine development. 

Hail can knock grapes off the vines, bruise or rupture grape skins, or even shatter the fruit, leading to immediate crop loss and reduced yields. It can also strip leaves from the vines, reduce photosynthetic capacity, and disrupt the vine's ability to produce energy for growth, thus delaying fruit maturation. Damage to leaves, shoots, and fruiting buds can impact the vine's ability to produce future crops. In extreme cases, hailstorms can damage vines so severely that they may not recover, resulting in the loss of the vine. 

On the other hand, violent storms can damage shoots and trunks, potentially leading to infection by bacteria such as Agrobacterium, which can cause crown gall disease, especially in younger vines. Damage to grape skins can lead to rot, reducing grape quality and, consequently, impacting wine quality and eventual ageing potential. 

Sudden heavy rainstorms and intense hailstorms have become more frequent, even affecting areas where they were previously rare, sometimes destroying a high percentage of the crop. 

Therefore, on top of fearing the frost bites of late March and April, growers and producers now face more recurrent and more frequent hail storms occurring usually in May and June, followed by heavy rainfall during the summer months. And unfortunately, there is nothing they can do to prevent these natural disasters.     

Managing hail and storm damage can be very costly, as it often requires growers and producers to prune damaged vines and address disease outbreaks. Proper irrigation and fertilization can help damaged vines recover and regain their health. Implementing pest control measures can help prevent further damage from pests. 

Some vineyards may choose to invest in protective measures, such as nets, to reduce hail damage. However, these can be costly, require extra labor, and, like the nets used for frost protection, may not always be permitted in certain regions. Others might insure their vineyards against hail damage, which can help mitigate financial losses. Whatever methods are employed, they represent yet another unexpected expense. 


Disrupting weather patterns, such as sudden hail and storms, is a problem; however, the ever-increasing temperatures (and eventually, air pollution and deforestation) of the past two decades have also led to major droughts and water scarcity in some regions, which in turn impact grape yields and quality.  

The ideal growing season for wine grapes is characterized by a balance of warmth, sunlight, and rainfall, which ensures healthy vine growth and the production of high-quality grapes for winemaking. Conditions that are too cold and humid can cause irreversible damage, but so can excessive sunlight, heat, and high temperatures.  

Heat stress in vineyards can cause significant damage, impacting vine health, fruit quality, and yield. High temperatures can disrupt photosynthesis, slow sugar accumulation, and lead to sunburn and shriveling of berries. Extreme heat can also reduce berry acidity, affecting flavor profiles, and even cause berry death. 

High temperatures, especially after veraison (when grapes start to soften), can disrupt photosynthesis and slow the accumulation of sugars in ripening grapes. Berries directly exposed to sunlight can reach temperatures significantly higher than the surrounding air, leading to sunburn and shriveling. This can cause visible damage, reduce yield, and affect quality. High temperatures can increase respiration rates in grape berries, which in turn lowers levels of malic acid, a key organic acid that influences flavor. Extreme heat, particularly during heat waves, can lead to complete berry death. 

Heat stress can also lead to leaf loss and damage to the clusters, ultimately impacting vine health and future growth. Excessive heat can worsen soil moisture deficits and water shortages, potentially leading to drought stress if sufficient irrigation is not maintained. 



Autumn (Late Summer/Early Fall): ripening and harvest

Grapes ripen, and winemakers decide on the optimal time for harvest, which generally occurs in the fall. 

Various grape varieties have distinct ripening requirements, which means some can be harvested earlier or later in the season. In Bordeaux, for example, for the reds, Merlot ripens faster than Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, so harvest time differs depending on the grape variety, the level of ripeness, and the weather. The same applies to whites as Semillon ripens earlier than Sauvignon Blanc. 

During the ripening and harvest seasons in vineyards, problems can arise from weather, pests, diseases, and uneven ripening, which can impact grape quality and yield. These issues can lead to reduced flavor, potential spoilage, and challenges in managing the harvest itself. 

The disruptive weather patterns of recent years have led to heavy or excessive rainfall during the ripening and harvest seasons in some regions, which can cause berries to swell, diluting flavors and potentially cracking their skins, making them vulnerable to spoilage. Well-drained soil is crucial for healthy grapevines. 

On the other hand, heat stress due to extreme heat and heat waves can also occur, damaging leaves and berries, reducing sugar production, and attracting pests. 

The unpredictable weather, temperature fluctuations, droughts, and rainfall that some regions have experienced in the past decade have disrupted the ripening process, making it difficult to predict optimal harvest times. 

Facing these challenges, vineyards are more susceptible to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew and downy mildew, which can damage grapes and lead to reduced yield and quality. Grapevine pests can inflict significant harm and diminish the quality of the grapes. As previously mentioned, water-stressed vines can be more vulnerable to pests and diseases. 

Also, some grape varieties exhibit varying levels of genetic predisposition to uneven ripening. Therefore, if they are not planted or grown in adapted soils with the ideal climate and environment, they may face challenges that prevent some grapes from ripening evenly, complicating the timing and delaying the harvest. A few days may not seem significant, but if grapes, and consequently parcels, are ripening unevenly, the harvest could be delayed by a week or two, depending on the weather and, of course, the ripening pace.    

Differences in sun exposure, temperature, and airflow within the vineyard, resulting from geographic location and environment, as well as the proximity of a mass of water, forests, or buildings, can also lead to microclimate (lack of sun, uneven air flow, mist, difference in temperatures, etc...) and thus uneven ripening.

Fortunately, winemakers can influence the ripeness of grapes by adjusting harvest timing, which impacts the final style and taste of the wine, based on their preferences, the appellation requirements, and the quality of the vintage. 

Understandably, the best vintages are typically the least problematic, characterized by an ideal growing season for wine grapes. This season features a balance of warmth (throughout the budding and flowering), sunlight (during the ripening and harvest), and rainfall (in spring, along with occasional summer showers and/or a few weeks before harvest), all of which ensure healthy vine growth and the development of high-quality grapes for winemaking. 

After harvest, the vines enter dormancy for the winter, while the winemaker dedicates attention to vinification and crafting the wine.    


Changing, adjusting, and adapting

Based on the challenges faced by growers and winemakers in the vineyards (cited above), climate change is affecting vineyard growth and conditions, grape yield, composition, and wine quality. As a result, the practices in the vineyards, the types of grape varieties used, and the geography of wine production are also evolving. 

Vineyards are adapting to the effects of climate change by adjusting practices in several key areas. This includes switching to more drought-resistant grape varieties and rootstocks, modifying canopy management, and adjusting harvest times. They are also exploring new irrigation methods, considering traditional techniques, and even expanding to new regions that are becoming suitable for viticulture. 

In Bordeaux, for example (being a native of Bordeaux, it is the region I know best), growers and winemakers, led by notable figures like Loic Pasquet of Liber Patter and Jean-Baptiste Duquesne of Chateau Cazabone, have fought the appellation authorities for years to incorporate additional grape varieties into the authorized selection: transitioning to drought-resistant varieties and rootstocks, including some from warmer regions and some that were previously existing but prohibited by the appellation rules.   

In 2019, producers of Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur sought approval for certain varieties aimed at alleviating the impacts of climate change while preserving the essence of Bordeaux wines. Some of the traits of the listed grapes included high natural acidity, robust structure, strong aromas, and effective resistance to certain vine diseases, such as mildew and grey rot.

The French national appellation authority, INAO, approved six new grape varieties to help Bordeaux wine producers adapt to climate change. The approved varieties include four red grapes—Touriga Nacional, Marselan, Castets, and Arinarnoa—and two white grapes, Alvarinho and Liliorila. Petit Manseng was also suggested but was excluded from the final list.

According to Bordeaux’s wine council, the CIVB, the planting of these varieties commenced in 2021, with a strict rule that these varieties can collectively make up only 5% of a producer’s vineyard area and 10% of the final wine blend, to preserve the taste and style of Bordeaux. As most Bordeaux top appellations have not accepted these new grape varieties as part of their blends, the wines made from them can only be sold where authorized as Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC, or as a Vin de France AOC.     

Other regions and appellations in France, which are also experiencing the consequences of climate change, are gradually exploring the possibilities and may eventually incorporate grape varieties previously prohibited in their wines. Some regions previously suited for other types of agriculture are now also emerging as new wine regions and appellations.     





***** work in progress *******







Cheers! Santé!

Dom


Tuesday, May 27, 2025

LeDomduVin: Lunch at Bayfare Social drinking Albamar Albarino Rias Baixas 2023





Lunch at Bayfare Social drinking Albamar Albarino Rias Baixas 2023



In my previous post, I posted some pictures from the terrace of Bayfare Social restaurant in Rosewood Hotel HK, but no food or wine. So, here they are, some pictures from another lunch I had there a few weeks ago.





I really enjoy Bayfare Social Restaurant (@bayfaresocial), a Spanish restaurant with a good selection of Tapas and other Spanish specialities.   









The atmosphere is cozy and comfortable, and the wine list is full of interesting wines. The terrace is a great spot, shaded from the Sun with a great view, perfect for lunch and dinner.






Nice and simple lunch with a bottle of Albamar Albarino  Rias Baixas 2023 (@albamarbodegas) 




Good picture opportunities with the Aqualuna (@aqualunahk) in the background. 

Pay them a visit, it's worth it! 





Albamar Albarino Rias Baixas Spain 2023


This light and crisp Albarino was a great choice to accompany the tapas. Although I would have loved for it to be more substantial, it was still really enjoyable and fresh. And its balanced palate, enhanced by high acidity and subtle salinity, went well with the various textures and flavors of the food. It is a quaffable white summery wine ideal as an aperitif with appetizers or to pair with salads, fish, and light dishes.       


Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #lunch #tapas #spanishfood #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine #albamar #albarino #riasbaixas #spain #spanishwine 

Thursday, May 22, 2025

LeDomduVin: Fête des mères / Mother's Day !




Fête des mères / Mother's Day!


Pour la fête des mères, tu cherches du parfum, une robe, un bouquet... Va chez ton caviste, il a tout ça en bouteille !

A l'international, la fête des mères, c'était le 11 Mai. Mais en France, c'est ce week-end, Dimanche 25 Mai. C'est un jour spécial pour une personne plus que spéciale, alors n'oublie pas de lui souhaiter.

Une maman est essentielle! Elle joue un rôle crucial dans la vie de son enfant, depuis sa naissance jusqu'à sa vie d'adulte. Elle est souvent le premier modèle, le confident et le soutien le plus important.

Bonne fête à toutes les mamans!


Cheers! Santé!

Dom

Merci à Eric Daout (@douelledereve) pour l'image. 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #fetedesmeres #fetedesmamans #25mai2025 #fete #wine #vin #vino #wein





For Mother's Day, you're looking for perfume, a robe, a bouquet... Go to your wine merchant, it has it all in bottles! 😁👍🍷

Internationally, Mother's Day was on May 11th. But in France, it's this weekend, Sunday, May 25th. It's a special day for a very special person, so don't forget to wish her a happy Mother's Day.

A mother is essential! She plays a crucial role in her child's life, from birth to adulthood. She is often the first role model, confidant, and most important support.

Happy Mother's Day to all mothers! 


Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

Thanks to Eric Daout (@douelledereve) for the inspiration.

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #mothersday #fetedesmeres #fetedesmamans #may252025 #specialday #wine #vin #vino #wein




Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Wednesday, May 21, 2025

LeDomduVin: What are the differences between Japanese and Scotch Whisky?

 


Japanese vs Scotch Whisky by @ledomduvin 2025 (*)



What are the differences between 

Japanese and Scotch Whisky? 


I was recently requested to help sell Scottish and Japanese whisky to a private buyer. Although I could be considered an expert in wine due to my 33 years of experience in buying, selling, managing, promoting, writing about, and serving as a sommelier and wine buyer, I must admit that my knowledge of spirits, and particularly whiskies, despite enjoying some occasionally, is not as extensive as I thought it was. 

So, to prepare for the sale, I had to research and learn more about whiskies, especially the differences between Japanese and Scotch whisky, as the private buyer targeted those. As always, this inspired me to write a post about my findings and share them with you.  

In summary, Japanese whisky is generally lighter, less smoky, and more experimental, while Scotch whisky offers a broader range of flavors rooted in tradition and regional styles. 

The main differences between Japanese and Scotch whisky lie in their origin, production, flavor profiles, and regulations. 

Yet, as the history, places, and numbers of distilleries in Scotland would be too long to explain and summarize, I will focus mainly on general facts about Japanese Whisky for this post.   


Japanese Whisky Historical Context (**)


To provide context, Scotch whisky has a centuries-old heritage that dates back to at least the 15th century. The earliest written mention is from 1495. Whisky (in Scotland, England, Canada, and Japan) or whiskey (in Ireland and the USA) is a spirit with Celtic origins.

Although its exact origin remains uncertain, Scotland and Ireland played pivotal roles in its development. The Irish named it "usquebaugh" (or uisce beatha), while the Scots called it "uisge beatha," both meaning "water of life." 

This is a direct translation from Latin, "aqua vitae," meaning "water of life." The term reflects the historical belief that distilled spirits like whisky had medicinal qualities and were viewed as a life-sustaining elixir. 

Eventually, this spirit spread to England, gaining popularity there, where the name was Anglicized to whisky.

Ireland first used the word "whiskey" in 1875; the "e" was added to help distinguish its produce from that of its Scottish counterparts in the American market. The US adopted the word "whiskey" instead of "whisky." 


On the other hand, the story of Japanese whisky only began in the 1920s. Inspired by Scotch, it was developed with Japanese craftsmanship and local influences.   

Although whisky production in Japan began around 1870, the first commercial production started in 1923 upon the opening of the country's first whisky distillery, Yamazaki.

It all began with two influential figures in Japanese whisky history: Shinjiro Torii and Masataka Taketsuru. Torii, a pharmaceutical wholesaler, founded Kotobukiya (now Suntory). He initially imported Western liquor and created the "Akadama Port Wine" brand, based on Portuguese wine, achieving success. Unfulfilled, he pursued his true passion: crafting Japanese whisky for locals. Despite opposition from local executives, Torii built Japan's first whisky distillery in Yamazaki, a Kyoto suburb known for its excellent water.

Torii hired Taketsuru as a distillery executive. After studying distilling in Scotland, Taketsuru returned to Japan in the early 1920s to recreate the style of Scottish whisky. While working at Kotobukiya (now Suntory), he assisted Torii in establishing the "Yamazaki" Distillery. 

A few years after opening the distillery and allowing enough time for aging, the first whisky produced in Japan was the Suntory Shirofuda, released in 1929.

In 1934, Taketsuru left to form "Dainipponkaju" (later renamed Nikka) and established the "Yoichi" distillery in Hokkaidō.

Following World War II, the popularity of Japanese whisky grew in the 1950s. At that time, the three major brands—Suntory, Daikoku Budoshu (later known as Mercian Corporation), and Nikka—competed against each other, resulting in the "whisky wars." 

Pairing whisky with Japanese cuisine gained traction in the 1960s, and the "Bottle keep" system became common in bars. Drinking mizuwari, a whisky mixed with two to two-and-a-half times the amount of water, also became popular.

In 1971, restrictions on whisky trade were lifted, allowing Japanese importers to bring in foreign whisky without limits. In 1973, Kirin Company entered the whisky business.  

After peaking in 1983, whisky consumption in Japan declined significantly, falling behind beer, shōchū, and sake. By 2008, only 20% of the 1983 level of consumption remained.

Between 1983 and 2008, the decline in whisky consumption in Japan led to a halt in production and the closure of distilleries due to decreased demand. 

In fact, before 2000, the market for Japanese whiskies was predominantly domestic. However, this changed in 2001 when Nikka's 10-year-old Yoichi single malt received the "Best of the Best" award at Whisky Magazine's awards. From then on, Japanese Whisky slowly gained more international recognition.



Bob Harris (Bill Murray) - For Relaxing Times, Make it Suntory Time! Scene - 
Snapshot courtesy of 'Lost in Translation' 2003 (written and directed by Sofia Coppola)


In 2003, the film "Lost in Translation", starring actor Bill Murray’s character Bob Harris, popularized Japanese whisky in real life from his famous fictional Japanese “Suntory Time” commercial, featuring 17-year-old blended Hibiki. 

At the 2003 International Spirits Challenge, Suntory's Yamazaki won a gold medal. In 2004, 18-year-old Yamazaki entered the U.S. In the following years, Japanese whiskies, especially from Suntory, have won top honors in international competitions, further cementing and increasing the reputation of Japanese whisky worldwide.   

As the rest of the world witnessed the gradual rise of Japanese whisky, whisky's declining consumption in Japan experienced a renaissance around 2008, thanks to the highball craze (a mixed drink of an alcoholic base and a larger proportion of a non-alcoholic mixer, often carbonated) and renewed demand.

In 2008, the Chichibu distillery began operations, marking the first new whisky production license granted by the Japanese government in 35 years. The success of this distillery has encouraged sake and shōchū companies, along with businesses from other sectors, to venture into the whisky market, leading to the construction of distilleries all over Japan.

As of 2011, there were about nine active whisky distilleries in Japan. As of October 2022, there were 59 whisky distilleries in Japan, including those under construction and those planned.

Suntory whiskies continued to win gold medals annually through 2013, with all three malt whiskies earning trophies in 2012 (Yamazaki 18 years old and Hakushu 25 years old) or 2013 (Hibiki 21 years old). Suntory also received the distiller of the year award in 2010, 2012, and 2013, inspiring Japan's distilleries to pursue international markets.

Japanese whisky has won the world's highest award in some category at the World Whiskies Awards, organized by Whisky Magazine, each year from the inaugural event in 2007 until 2022. Whisky Magazine has conducted a series of blind tastings that have included Japanese single malts and malts from distilleries regarded as some of the best in Scotland. On multiple occasions, the results have shown that Japanese single malts (particularly those from Nikka's Yoichi and Suntory's Yamazaki) scored higher than their Scottish counterparts.


Drawings / Images courtesy of https://thejapanesebar.com/japanese-whisky/




Whisky Distillery Procedure


As Japanese whisky was inspired by Scotch whisky, it generally follows the same production process. In brief, the whisky distillation procedure consists of several stages: malting, mashing, fermentation, distillation, maturation, and bottling. First, the grain is malted to convert starches into fermentable sugars. This is followed by mashing, which extracts the sugars from the grain. Fermentation then transforms the sugars into alcohol, which is concentrated through distillation. Finally, the whisky is aged in oak barrels for at least three years and bottled for consumption. 

The only things that might differ are using different grains, distillation processes (using Copper Pot Still or Continuous Column Still), adding caramel for color and taste, and the type of wood used in the aging process, depending on the desired style. These differences only rely on the distillery style, traditions, and geographic location. 


Differences in Production

As mentioned, Japanese whisky commercial production only began in the 1920s and primarily gained popularity from the 1950s. However, there were only a few distilleries then, and production quantities were limited. Furthermore, between 1983 and 2008, the decline in whisky consumption in Japan caused a halt in production and the closure of distilleries due to reduced demand. This explains why some whiskies are extremely rare and expensive, as they were never produced again. 

Additionally, the high demand and low supply, combined with tiny production and the increasing popularity of Japanese whisky over the last 15 years, drove prices up, especially for rarer products. 

Even though the number of distilleries increased from 9 in 2011 to 96 in 2024 (103 if we count the ones under construction and planned), offering more accessible mass-market whiskies to satisfy local and worldwide demand, Japanese Whiskies generally remain more expensive than Scottish whiskies.  

Scotland has been the biggest producer of whisky in the world for at least 100 years. Some have been producing Scottish whisky for centuries among the hundreds of distilleries scattered all over Scotland. Moreover, except for some special cuvees and limited editions, most distilleries in Scotland produce rather large quantities of their flagship whiskies compared to Japanese distilleries.    

Numerous Japanese distilleries create small batches of whisky, prioritizing quality over quantity. This limited output produces a scarcity of specific whiskies, driving up demand and prices. As a result, collectors and enthusiasts frequently pay a premium for these rare and exclusive bottles.


Differences in Philosophy and Style

Japanese whisky emphasizes refinement, balance, and technical precision, prioritizing smoothness and complexity over intensity. Scotch whisky highlights tradition and consistency, often preserving centuries-old flavor profiles.

The water sources and the type of wood used for the barrels impart different tasting notes. Japanese producers use a rare Japanese oak tree called Mizurana to mature their whisky, creating a flavor consumers won't get from Scotch. In contrast, Scottish distilleries generally prefer ex-bourbon or sherry barrels.

Japanese whisky often employs various distillation methods, including copper pot stills and continuous column stills, low pressure, and multiple yeasts, to create flavor profiles. 

Scotch whisky typically uses traditional pot still distillation; in some regions, peated barley is incorporated to impart a smoky flavor.

Although both Japanese and Scotch whisky must be aged for at least three years in oak casks, their styles differ because Scotch must be distilled and matured in Scotland under strict regulations, using malted barley and occasionally other grains, generally aged in Sherry or Bourbon casks. 

Meanwhile, Japanese whisky, modeled after Scotch, has fewer legal restrictions, allowing for more experimentation with various grains (barley, corn, wheat, rice) and cask types (sherry, bourbon), including the rare Japanese Mizunara oak, which imparts unique flavors. 

Climate also influences their differences in style, as Japan’s hot summers and cold winters accelerate whisky maturation, creating deeper flavors in a shorter time than Scotland’s cooler and more humid climate, which retards aging.

As a result, Japanese whisky tends to be lighter, more delicate, and less peated, often featuring floral, fruity, and spicy notes. Scotch whisky varies widely but is generally smokier and peatier, especially those from coastal or island regions where peat is used extensively in malting barley.

Japanese whisky is recognized for its elegant, refined style. At the same time, Scotch is known for its diverse and often more pronounced spirits, usually boasting stronger peated and smokier flavors than its Japanese counterparts. 

Nikka Whisky Single Malt Yoichi is likely the Japanese whiskey most resembling Scotch. Founder Taketsuru selected Yoichi in Hokkaido for its similarity to Scotland, especially its relative climate. Nikka Yoichi presents similarities with Scotch with aromas and flavors such as grass, peat, smoke, and fruits.


Prelude to the regulations


Despite a few details, regulations for Japanese whisky are now similar to those for Scotch whisky. 

Yet, until the most recent regulations in 2024, the rules for Japanese whiskey were not as strict and allowed certain flexibilities, which are now regarded as unlawful. 

In 1971, restrictions on the whisky trade were lifted, allowing Japanese importers to bring in foreign whisky without limits. Japanese importers and distilleries started to blend some Japanese whiskies with scotch. Back then, this practice was authorised to make Blended Scotch. The distilleries were only a few; thus, consumption and demand were larger than the supply, so blending Japanese whisky with scotch was an easy solution to fix the problem.  

However, as mentioned earlier, between 1983 and 2008, Japanese whiskey consumption decreased, leading to the closure of some distilleries and a halt to production. Yet, simultaneously, from the early 2000s, Japanese whiskey was gaining popularity with consumers in the Western world, receiving more recognition from critics and winning more medals in international competitions.      

Consequently, prices started to rise, and limited editions of older Japanese whiskies, which were no longer produced (due to the closure of the distilleries and halt of production), began to trigger the interests of connoisseurs and collectors, often reaching record heights at Auctions in the 2000s and 2010s, led by brands such as Yamazaki, Hibiki, Karuizawa, Ichiro and Nikka.

Karuizawa, for instance, is a legendary distillery located on the slopes of the volcanic Mount Asama, known for producing heavyweight whiskies primarily for blending, with few bottled as single malts prior to the site’s closure in 2000. After Karuizawa was dismantled, the remaining casks were distributed among a select group of bottlers who appreciated their unique character and quality. Many of these were ex-sherry casks that resulted in dark, rich whiskies with an exceptionally complex profile. Series such as the Karuizawa Geishas from Elixir Distillers are celebrated worldwide and remain among the rarest and most expensive Japanese whiskies ever bottled.

This situation led to an increase in the number of fake and counterfeit Japanese whiskies on the market, often made with imported whiskies blended and sold with false Japanese labels. Yet, it also increased consumption and demand in the Japanese market (and worldwide).  

In 2008, the Japanese government started to grant permission to build new distilleries to increase the supply and satisfy the demand. Japanese whisky became very lucrative, and by 2022, the number of distilleries had evolved from 9 in 2011 to 59 in 2022, to a staggering 96 in 2024.  

However, despite the rise in distilleries and counterfeit products, regulations continued to permit practices that fell into grey areas, producing Japanese whiskies of doubtful provenance, often blended with whiskies from other countries, for about 15 years before stricter rules were established.   

To address the issue, in 2023, the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association (JSLMA) established a set of guidelines for its members to clarify the definition of Japanese whisky, to be called ‘Japanese Whisky’. These new regulations were implemented in 2024. 

These regulations apply solely to JSLMA members and are not legally enforceable, which may lead to some uncertainty about the source of certain whiskies in the future. However, since all the major producers in Japan are members, the presence of "Japanese Whisky" on the label will strongly suggest its production method and origin. 

What is now called "Japanese World Whisky" still exists. It results from blending whiskies distilled and aged in Japan, often completed with a percentage of foreign whiskies. These are, therefore, legitimate Japanese whiskies but do not fully meet the criteria of the JSLMA specifications.


Differences in Regulations


Japanese whisky 

For a Japanese whisky to be called Japanese whisky, it must:
  • Produced in Japan and conforms to strict regulations
  • Fermented, distilled, aged, and bottled in Japan
  • Aged in Japan for a minimum of 3 years in wooden casks
  • Use primarily malted grains, but may also include other cereal grains
  • Use water sourced in Japan
  • Saccharification (conversion of starches into sugars, or mashing), fermentation, and distillation must occur at a Japanese distillery
  • Plain caramel coloring may be used
  • Bottling must occur only in Japan
  • Alcohol content must be at least 40% ABV when bottled 
  • Distillation must result in a spirit less than 95% ABV 
Japanese whiskies that don’t meet the above requirements may not use the names of geographical locations in Japan, the Japanese flag, or the names of people that evoke the country in their labeling.



Scotch Whisky 

Scotch Whisky must be produced in Scotland and conform to strict regulations. It must be distilled at a distillery in Scotland from water and malted barley (to which only whole grains of other cereals may be added), all of which have been 

  • Processed at that distillery into a mash
  • Converted at that distillery into a fermentable substrate only by endogenous enzyme systems
  • Fermented at that distillery only by the addition of yeast
  • Distilled at an alcoholic strength by volume of less than 94.8 per cent so that the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production
  • Matured only in oak casks of a capacity not exceeding 700 litres
  • Aged only in Scotland and for not less than three years; to retain the colour, aroma, and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production and maturation;
  • to which no substance has been added, or to which no substance has been added except—
    • water;
    • plain caramel colouring; or
    • water and plain caramel colouring; and
  • that has a minimum alcoholic strength by volume of 40%.








Types of Japanese and Scotch Whisky


As you can see from the picture above, except for Koji and eventually some rare limited editions, the types of Japanese and Scotch whisky are roughly the same:

  • Single Malt: from one or more casks of single Malt, made from 100% barley, in one distillery, distilled in a Copper Pot Still and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara, or others), before bottling. 
  • Blended Malt (also known as Pure Malt or Vatted Malt, Vatting = Mixing or Blending): usually a blend of several "Single Malts" from various casks, from one or more distilleries, traditionally distilled in a Copper Pot Still (but some distilleries might use a Column Continuous Still) and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara or others), before bottling. 
  • Single Grain: from one or more casks of single Grain, unmalted or malted barley, combined with other grains (Maize or Wheat), in one grain distillery, distilled more commonly with a Column Continuous Still or a Copper Pot Still, and aged for at least 3 years in barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, or others), before bottling. It might be a little confusing, but contrary to popular belief, "Single Grain" does not mean "made from only one grain" but "made from a single distillery", and may contain other whole grains in the ingredients list. It is traditionally distilled in a Column Continuous Still, and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara or others), before bottling.  
  • Blended Grain: usually a blend of several "Single Grain" whiskies, from several Single Grain Distilleries, distilled more commonly in a Column Continuous Still, and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara or others), before bottling.
  • Blended Scotch: usually a blend of one or more malt whiskies with one or more grain whiskies, distilled in several distilleries in a Column Continuous Still, and aged for at least 3 years in barrels (Sherry, Bourbon, or others), before bottling. Blended Scotch is by far the most popular category, with about 9 out of every 10 bottles sold worldwide being a blend.
  • Koji Whisky: Originally known as Japanese Rice Whisky, it is basically a barrel-aged shochu (Japanese distilled spirit). It is usually made with locally grown rice or unmalted barley to which Koji rice mold is added. This mold helps ferment the barley instead of the usual yeasts. If made with rice, the koji mold helps saccharify the grains or convert their starches to sugar (a process generally using malted barley or enzymes (yeasts) to produce barley-based Scotch and other Japanese whisky). It is usually distilled in a Double Pot Still, and aged for at least 3 years in oak barrels (White American Oak, Sherry, Bourbon, Mizunara or others), before bottling.

We could add a category called " Single Cask " to this list of Japanese and Scotch whisky types. 

  • Single Cask: a premium class of whiskey where each bottle is sourced from an individual aging barrel rather than being blended from multiple barrels to achieve uniformity in color and flavor. The cask is usually selected for its exceptional taste, color, and flavor due to longer aging in the barrel. One cask only produces limited bottles, indicating the cask and bottle numbers on the label.  


Last but not least, the vintage and any other numbers on the label (other than the cask and bottle numbers).  

It might be confusing, but vintage bottles may indicate either the vintage or the number of years of aging, or both.    

  • The vintage: A vintage on the bottle corresponds to the year the whisky was distilled and filled into the oak cask, not the year it was bottled. (e.g., 1973)  
  • The number of years of aging: A two-digit number on the bottle corresponds to the years the whisky has been aged in the casks (e.g., 30 Years Old). Whisky maturation, or aging, in oak barrels greatly influences the flavor and aroma of the final product. The legal minimum aging time for Scotch whisky is three years, although some whiskies are aged for much longer, even decades. The longer a whisky ages, the more it interacts with the oak, imparting flavors from the wood. While age is a factor, it's not the sole determinant of quality; other factors like cask type, distillation, and blending also play a crucial role. 

NB: If the Scotch is a blend, the age stated on the bottle refers to the 'youngest' whisky used; 12, 15, and 18 years are usually the most popular.   

  • Both vintages and the number of years of aging: when all 3 numbers are stated on the main label and/or the back label:
    • The oldest vintage corresponds to the year of distilling (e.g., 1975)
    • The youngest vintage corresponds to the year of bottling (e.g, 2005)
    • The 2-digit number corresponds to the year of aging in between (e.g, 30 years) 
NB: This last category with the 3 numbers usually applies to a single cask; therefore, the cask and bottle may also appear on the main or back label. These are usually the rarest and most expensive whiskies, commanding hefty prices. 

If the bottle does not list any numbers, typically for blended whisky, it indicates that it is a very young whisky aged for the minimum requirement of 3 years before being bottled.  


Conclusion


At the end of the day, the choice between Japanese and Scotch whisky primarily depends on style, origin, geographic location, quality of the water used, types of yeasts, distillation process, types of oak used for aging, and aging duration; the longer it is aged, the more flavors and tastes the wood imparts. Most importantly, similar to wine, it ultimately comes down to personal preference shaped by mood, context, setting, company, and surroundings. Personally, I appreciate both, especially with a good cigar as a digestif.    



Voila! That's all, folks, for today! There is undoubtedly much more to discuss when it comes to Japanese vs. Scotch, but I tried to keep it simple and to the point, with only the necessary details.  If I forgot something or you think certain things could be added, let me know, and as always, I will oblige.  



Cheers! Santé!


Dom


(*) This is my latest collage creation. It is the header image of a post about Japanese vs. Scotch Whisky that I'm working on. I thought having a Samurai and a Scottish Bagpiper face each other on side-by-side bottles was an interesting idea. What do you think? The red circle and the white cross on a blue background subtly symbolize the flags of each country. They add a "je ne sais quoi" to the bottles, making them distinctive (despite their shapes). 😊

(**) Info mostly from and courtesy of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_whisky (edited and complemented with other info from various sources for the purpose of this post) 







Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Thursday, May 15, 2025

LeDomduVin: Birthday Lunch at Bouillon HK




Birthday Lunch at Bouillon HK 


Birthday celebration lunch at Bouillon (@bouillon.hk) with Daan (@daanbeirnaert1) with wine pairing and serving by Bouillon's Sommelier/Beverage Manager Emeric Maisonneuve (@emericmaisonneuve). 






I like Bouillon, a charming "Bistro Parisien" located in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. It was not my first visit, and I always come back with pleasure. 







Chef Johan Ducroquet's food is good, flavorful, and comforting. The decor is simple, comfy, and cozy. The wine list is full of gems carefully selected by Emeric. The ambiance is always relaxed and welcoming. 







The wines paired well with the food. We had a glass of Domaine Gueguen Petit Chablis 2019 with the starters...










...and a glass of Domaine Bernard Duseigneur La Goutte du Seigneur Côtes du Rhône 2023 with the main courses. Both are lovely wines. 








It made my birthday celebration lunch a very pleasurable experience. 

Thank you to Daan for accompanying me and to Emeric and Bouillon's team for the food and wines. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @chablisgueguen #domainegueguen #petitchablis #burgundy @bernardduseigneur #lagoutteduseigneur #cotesdurhone @bouillon.hk #bouillon #lunch #birthday #birthdaylunch #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine



Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Friday, May 9, 2025

LeDomduVin: Portrait, LeDomduVin & Château Latour Pauillac 2015




Ledomduvin & Château Latour 2015


In my previous post (a few days ago), "Portrait," I mentioned that the pictures were taken on my last day before turning 50. 

Well, here we go again. Tonight is my last day before turning 52 tomorrow. 

A colleague took this picture earlier tonight, just before serving this beautiful wine, Chateau Latour 2015, for a private dinner. The wine was succulent! 😋👍🍷🍷🍷





Although this particular decanter may convey a certain elegance, one cannot help but notice and even laugh at its phallic form. That was the only style available in the restaurant. It is a question of taste, and I'm not judging anything or anyone, but I must admit that the vision of such a decanter always sketches a smile on my face.  😉😁👍🍷 





Château Latour Pauillac 2015


Château Latour needs no introduction. It is one of the most outstanding wines from Pauillac and Bordeaux and is among the largest, with 96.5 hectares of vines. This includes "The Enclos," the 47-hectare walled vineyard surrounding the Chateau that was converted entirely to organic farming with the 2015 vintage, and roughly 50 hectares outside of "The Enclos."     

What makes it great is that the Grand Vin of Chateau Latour is made exclusively from “Vieilles Vignes, "which are, on average, 60 years old, from the best parcels of "The Enclos."  

The Enclos's core terroir consistently delivers the depth, elegance, and concentration expected from the Grand Vin. Here, the Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up over 90% of the blend, reaches its best expression in terms of color, richness, and freshness. Chateau Latour's Grand Vin requires time and rewards those who have the patience to wait a decade or more to fully enjoy its potential.  

In exceptional vintages, the strength and vibrancy of Château Latour's wines allow them to develop effortlessly over several decades. The bouquet and impressions during tasting gradually evolve, becoming more complex until they peak, after which the tannins soften and the wine slowly tames down. Beyond the enjoyment of drinking them, these wines evoke powerful emotions and create unforgettable moments. This perfectly describes my experience with this magnificent 2015 vintage. 

Bought a few years ago from sound provenance and kept at an ideal temperature and humidity level in a Eurocave, the bottle was pristine, and the cork was in perfect condition. Due to its youth and as it was a bit shy on the nose, I decanted it (roughly 45 minutes before serving). I retasted it before serving it, and it had opened up nicely. 

Spawned from an exceptional vintage, Chateau Latour 2015 is a blend of roughly 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.6% Merlot, and less than 1% Petit Verdot. In the glass, the wine displayed a dark garnet color. On the nose, after 45 minutes decanting, its shyness at opening gave way to warmer and complex aromas of dark fruits like blackberries and plums mingling with mocha, graphite, and floral notes. The palate showed richness, complexity, and power in a soft velvet glove way, with excellent balance and freshness. Its concentration expanded nicely from the attack to the lingering finish, coating the mouth with ripe dark fruits, woody, earthy, spicy notes, and mineral, umami, and salty nuances. The tannins were present yet perfectly integrated. What a magnificent wine! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

Full post with tasting notes on my blog at www.ledomduvin.com (link in bio) 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #portrait #wine #vin #vino #wein #chateaulatour #pauillac #bordeaux #tastingnotes #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine


Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

Wednesday, May 7, 2025

LeDomduVin: May the 4th be with you! And the 6th too!





LeDomduVin: May the 4th be with you! 

And the 6th too! 



May is Star Wars Month! It has been for decades, since the release of the movie "Star Wars" on May 25th, 1977 (US release date - retitled in 1979: Star Wars: Episode IV – A New Hope), which became the foundation of the Star Wars universe, as part of the Trilogy of Trilogies, expanding it with endless stories, adventures, characters, creatures, planets, worlds, dimensions and so much more.     

Most (or even all) Star Wars films have been released (in the US) in May, ever since.   

Being born in 1973, I watched Star Wars, my first Sci-Fi movie, in 1979 when I was 6. As a result of growing up with Star Wars, I'm a HUGE fan. 

To mark the occasion nearly every year, I contribute my stone to the edifice by creating a drawing, a collage, or an image related to Star Wars and wine. You can see my previous creations herehereas well as here and here (too many to include all the links). 

This year, I did not have the chance to create something myself, so I simply wrote a prompt in an AI application on my phone to generate these two images. It is not as personal as usual, since I did not make these images myself, but I did not want to miss the opportunity to post something about Star Wars.  

Just as a kind reminder for those who may not know, Star Wars has 2 particular dates in May (3, depending on who you ask), one for the Jedi(s) and one for the Sith(s): 

- May the 4th, after the famous Jedi quote: "May the force be with you!

- May the 6th (or the 5th, depending on who you ask) as a Sith response to May the 4th: "May the Sixth be with you!"

So here they are, my little contributions to the Star Wars universe for this year (above and below), with Yoda and Darth Vader as the main protagonists.  





May the force be with you! Always!

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #maythe6th #maythesith #maythesixth #maythesithbewithyou #maythesixthbewithyou #starwars #darthvader #sith #sithlord #wine #vin #vino #wein #maythe4th #maytheforce #maythefourth #maytheforcebewithyou #starwars #yoda 


Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).