LeDomduVin: Underestimated Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2014

Underestimated Vieux Château Certan 

Pomerol 2014

Why underestimated? VCC 2014 now delivers more than it did a few years ago since its release. And that’s often the case for lesser Bordeaux vintages. 

The 2014 vintage experienced a challenging growing season, characterized by a mild winter and a summer that alternated between heat spikes and periods of cool, rainy weather. Consequently, the vintage is known for its uneven quality, with some estates producing some good wines while others struggled. 

As they like to say in Bordeaux, the resulting wines are more “traditional”, more “classic”, meaning that they are usually a bit more austere, leaner, and offering less complexity, texture, substance, and structure than celebrated vintages such as 2000, 2005, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016, etc… 

 

I’m usually the first to be hesitant about buying lesser Bordeaux vintages. As a Sommelier and Wine Buyer, I mostly purchase good to outstanding vintages in search of the “Wow!” factor and immediate customer satisfaction, rather than spending time explaining to my customers why a lesser vintage can also be good, considering blah, blah, blah.

Moreover, most restaurants and sommeliers offer lesser vintages on their wine lists to capitalize on the name and give customers the impression that they are buying a good wine, while it is a lesser vintage.

This allows them to increase the margin and maximize profit, despite the wine not being of high quality. Yet, because it is a well-recognized brand, people easily fall into the trap. 

Recently, I noticed that some wine lists are selling Bordeaux 2011, 2013, and 2017, which are average vintages, at prices comparable to those of better vintages. It is a scam.

I have never done that in my entire 33-year career, and I have always refused to do it; it gives a bad image and reputation to both the restaurant and the Sommelier.

Yet, I’m also the first to be willing to retry lesser vintages a few years later to check on their evolution and whether their taste has improved for the better. This is the case for the Vieux Chateau Certan 2014.  

Although Vieux Chateau Certan is one of my favorite Bordeaux wines, and I have always been pleased with most vintages I've tasted, I admit that I was not very fond of the 2014 vintage when I tasted it a few years ago. I found it hard and dry, austere and tannic, and closed.  

Yet, I decided to give it another chance a few weeks ago by selecting it for a private dinner, and I was both pleasantly surprised and satisfied. It was a gamble, as I hadn't tasted it in a few years, and it could have turned out worse. 

Yet, it is rarely the case with Vieux Chateau Certan, as it is one of those wines that usually improves with time and rewards those patient enough to wait for it (like Haut-Brion, which is another favorite of mine and an excellent example of a wine with outstanding ageing potential that develops for the better with time).    

Moreover, a Sommelier/Wine Buyer needs to taste and re-taste lesser vintages, not only to check the evolution of the wine, but also to eliminate their "a priori" expectations about the wine, especially if it has improved. One has to admit when they are wrong. Only idiots don't change their minds and stick stubbornly to their preconceived ideas. How can you assume a lesser vintage wine has not evolved and remained the same if you haven't tried it again? 

It is perhaps a characteristic of Bordeaux wines, but even lesser vintages can improve with age and become surprisingly good after a few years, making them worth revisiting.    

Vieux Château Certan Pomerol Bordeaux 2014

The estate's history begins with the Demay family, who were wine merchants in Bordeaux. Early records indicate that the property has been in existence since at least the mid-1700s. The wines were initially sold under the name Sertani.

The estate's name changed over time, and by the late 18th century, it was listed as "Sertan" on the Belleyme Map. In the 19th century, Charles de Bousquet, a banker, bought the estate and led major renovations, including the construction of the iconic tower, which became a symbol of its prominence.

In 1924, Georges Thienpont, a Belgian wine merchant, purchased Vieux Château Certan. The Thienpont family has remained the owners ever since, with Alexandre Thienpont currently managing the estate. In 1979, Marcel and Gérard Thienpont, part of the family, founded the nearby micro-cuvée estate, Château Le Pin.

I had the opportunity to meet Alexandre Thienpont and visit the estate, as well as taste the wines, during the En Primeur campaigns in the mid-to-late-2000s.

In France, it is often said that the wine resembles its maker, and that is precisely the case for Vieux Château Certan. Alexandre Thienpont is a bright, intelligent, highly knowledgeable, and skilled individual. Yet, he is a gentle, timid, and reserved person who only warms up and becomes much more approachable and personable when he feels comfortable with you.

Vieux Chateau Certan is the same, especially in lesser vintages; it needs time to develop and adapt to the environment and service conditions before delivering its full potential. Once opened, it is a suave and silky wine, rich, layered, and complex, precise and focused, almost intellectual, with excellent balance, texture, and structure. I love it.

The 14-acre vineyard is planted with a mix of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, a classic blend of Pomerol. The estate's winemaking practices emphasize careful attention to detail and a focus on achieving optimal ripeness and balance in the grapes.

Vieux Château Certan is recognized as one of Pomerol's oldest and most esteemed estates, producing wines renowned for their elegance, complexity, and exceptional aging potential.

 

A blend of 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, Vieux Château Certan 2014 showcases a beautiful interplay of freshness and fruit character. Surprisingly, it is now much more open than it was a few years ago. It offers exquisite aromas of blackberry and wild strawberry, mingling with floral and stony nuances, as well as earthy notes of rose petals, clove, and truffle. The palate is medium-bodied, with crisp acidity and fine tannins (more integrated than in recent years), offering a slightly masculine yet sophisticated character. Linear and precise, with a harmonious balance between freshness and roundness, while possessing excellent texture and structure. The finish is lingering and mineral-driven, with that "je ne sais quoi" of earthy energy characteristic of VCC wines. Love it. 

While enjoyable now, it might improve even more with further aging. I will definitely revisit it in a few years to see if I was right.   

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Classics in my book!

Classics in my book!

Mise en place for dinner, these have been staples in my recent selections. Love them all! 

The other day, I served the following wines for a private dinner, and they showed beautifully.   

I titled this post "Classics in my book!" because, over the past 2-3 years, I've had the pleasure of serving these wines numerous times. Moreover, they are classics of their appellations, too.  

Dom Perignon "Plenitude 2" is always a good reference in Champagne, and although the vintage 2003 is not my favorite, it still remains a very good champagne.  

For Fontaine-Gagnard, I was talking with a fellow sommelier who told me that, for him, it’s a producer he likes to include on his wine list but wouldn’t buy for his own consumption. He said that he found the style too classic, Burgundy. Well, it's fine, why not? 

Yet, I replied that this is precisely why I love Fontaine-Gagnard. Their wines are always very approachable and well-balanced. Not too extracted, with a good amount of oak but not overly oaked, fruit-forward but not overripe, and usually enhanced by excellent acidity and minerality. This makes them very accessible and enjoyable to drink, and easy to pair with food.  

As for Perrot-Minot NSG 1er Cru "La Richemone", it is a beautiful wine, more modern in style than the classic Nuits-Saint-Georges, complex, rich and ample, yet soft and silky, with a gentle texture expanding nicely in the palate toward the long velvety finish.    

Out of the 4 prepared wines, I only opened 3. I always come ready with an extra bottle, as you never know. Yet, that night, we didn't need it. Shame, as I would have loved to open this bottle of Chateau Haut-Brion 2008.  

Dom Perignon "Plénitude 2" Champagne Brut Vintage 2003

DP P2 2003 is a rich champagne that lacks some acidity and minerality, resulting in a less bright and somewhat flabby profile. It is not bad, but it unfortunately reflects the poor quality of the 2003 vintage, which was affected by a significant heat wave during the summer months. It was deemed the hottest summer recorded in Europe since at least 1540. Consequently, the resulting champagne shows taste, texture, and structure unworthy of the price and usual quality of "Plenitude 2" (IMO). And I usually love P2, it is consistently one of my go-to Champagnes when I make a selection for a dinner, but this vintage was pretty disappointing.  Too bad.   

Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2020

A classic in my book, because the few bottles I recently opened were stunning, despite being a bit light, but still delightful, and this one was too. 

Beyond its pale yellow color, the nose was light, fresh, elegant, mineral, zesty, and citrusy. At first, slightly restrained, the palate slowly opened, revealing a fresh, dry, mineral texture, good density, lots of lemony flavors, sharp acidity, and lightly toasted, oaky nuances. Delightful, even if a bit light to my palate for a Batard-Montrachet. I would have loved to see a bit more substance and depth. Yet, it might benefit from a few more years in the cellar. 

As my colleague Sommelier said that night, Fontaine-Gagnard is usually a more classic style of Burgundy. And, in fact, that's what I like about Fontaine-Gagnard: it is never over-the-top, but consistently well-crafted and balanced. It is neither too light nor too heavy, neither overripe nor overextracted, with enjoyable oak ageing nuances, but not overly oaky, toasted, or buttery either.     

Perrot-Minot Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru "La Richemone" Vignes Centenaires Burgundy 2018

With only 2,551 bottles produced, it is a rare wine, and I was fortunate to find nine bottles of it a few years ago.  I bought them right away, as this is a delicious, forward, ample, rich, complex, and enticing wine.  For a wine made from century-old vines, it exhibits a remarkably modern, youthful, and fruit-forward palate, with a reasonably long finish. Dark cherry and raspberry aromas mingling with warm, earthy, and oaky nuances. I love it. A must-try for those who have never done it before.           

The only problem is that I opened it about 1 hour before serving it and realized it did not need that long, as it tamed down and was much less expressive than right after the opening. Opening it 15 minutes before serving it should have sufficed, as it would have opened up in the glass anyway. Lesson learnt the hard way. Fortunately, I have the principle of never decanting Burgundy wines; otherwise, too much air might have damaged it even more. 

Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Grand Cru Classé Péssac-Léognan Bordeaux 2008

Although I did not open that bottle for dinner that night, Haut-Brion 2008 is a beautiful wine that has aged gracefully and is even better now than it was 10 years ago. I will describe it the next time I have an opportunity to taste and serve it.    

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @domperignonofficial #domperignon #plenitude @celinefontainegagnard #fontainegagnard #batardmontrachet @domaineperrotminot #perrotminot #nuitssaintgeorges #larichemone #vignescentenaires @chateauhautbrion_ #hautbrion #pessacleognan #bordeaux #miseenplace #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine 

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LeDomduVin: Thank you to all of you !!! - LeDomduVin is number 93 on FeedSpot's 100 Best Wine Blogs 2025

 

Screenshot courtesy of https://bloggers.feedspot.com/wine_blogs/

Thank you to all of you !!! 

LeDomduVin is number 93 on 

FeedSpot's 100 Best Wine Blogs 2025

As I do once a year, I just checked the position of my wine blog among the various listings of the best wine blogs on the internet, and I just realized that I was back in the Top 100 Best Wine Blogs on FeedSpot, ranking at 93, which is fantastic.  

Over the past few years, LeDomduVin.com has attracted a lot of attention, and the number of readers has increased significantly. A few weeks ago, my blog exceeded an impressive 45,000 views per week. And now, I am back in the Top 100 on the FeedSpot list. 

That's amazing, and it's all because of you, my readers. I cannot thank you enough for your support and the motivation it provides me to continue writing and sharing my passion and knowledge about wine with all of you. So, for that, THANK YOU to YOU ALL !!!  You are truly amazing! 

FeedSpot's 100 Best Wine Blogs are selected from thousands of online blogs and ranked by relevance, authority, social media followers, and freshness. It means the world to me to be included in this list, as I have dedicated my heart and effort to this blog for the past 17 years. 

The ranking of these 100 Best Wine Blogs is updated regularly and therefore fluctuates frequently. That means if I check again in a few weeks, the ranking might have changed to 95 or 75, who knows? 

Yet, today my ranking is 93, and I am really happy about it. Especially since I am just a humble, old sommelier and wine buyer, not a wine personality, critic, winemaker, magazine, importer/distributor, etc., like most of the other people on that list who are well-known and well-regarded figures in the wine world.   

My blog is my hobby because I love wine and enjoy writing about it. I write only when I have free time, occasionally and sporadically. Seeing that it can attract so much interest from all of you makes my blog and its success even more meaningful to me. 

So, again, THANK YOU ALL !!! for your interest in my blog and for taking the time to read my posts, you've made my day! Merci!

And thank you to FeedSpot, too! 

Cheers! Sante!

Dom (aka LeDomduVin aka Dominique Noel)     

If you're interested in checking who's on that list, here is the link to FeedSpot's Top 100 Wine Blogs 2025:  https://bloggers.feedspot.com/wine_blogs/ 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #thankyou #merci @feedspot @feedspotdotcom #feedspot #bestwineblogs #top100bestwineblogs #wineblogslist #blogger #wineblog #wineblogger #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob #lovewine

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LeDomduVin: Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux 2010

 

Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 

Bordeaux 2010 

I remember when Château Haut-Bailly was purchased by Robert (Bob) G. Wilmers in 1998. 

I was a young sommelier newly arrived in London. I read in the specialized press that Jean Sanders, the grandfather of Véronique Sanders, had sold Haut-Bailly to the Wilmers, a Francophile American banker and his French wife, who entrusted Jean and Véronique with managing the property. 

Daniel Sanders, from Lille and of Belgian descent, purchased the Chateau in 1955. His son, Jean Sanders, took over in 1979, and his granddaughter, Veronique Sanders, joined Haut-Bailly in 1997. In 2000, Veronique became the CEO of Haut-Bailly after her grandfather Jean Sanders retired.   

Although Haut-Bailly was well regarded in the late 1990s and early 2000s, it was not fully leveraging its potential and needed a renaissance. This purchase, along with improvements in winemaking practices and a renewed focus on quality at the estate, combined with Bob's 'spare no expenses' mentality and Veronique's vision, dedication, and ambitions, are often cited as the main reasons for its revival, increased recognition, and popularity. 

In the early 2000s, Château Haut-Bailly underwent a complete renovation and modernization of its cellars. This project was part of a broader effort to improve the quality of their wines after the estate was purchased by Robert G. Wilmers (known as Bob). The cellar upgrades were made to help produce the best wines possible. 

The cellar restoration was accompanied by significant changes to the vineyard. These involved green harvesting to remove underripe grapes and multiple harvesting passes to achieve optimal ripeness. Oenologist Gabriel Vialard joined the team in 2002 to further enhance the winemaking process. 

At that time, I had never visited Haut-Bailly, but I was familiar with the wine, having purchased and sold numerous bottles in various restaurants where I worked in France (1992-1997) and London (1997-2002). Since I loved their wine, I had always promised myself I would pay them a visit someday. 

In 2002, after five incredible years in London, I moved to New York and began working at www.PJWine.com, owned by Peter Yi, one of the largest and most successful wine and spirits retail stores in Manhattan at the time. 

Peter enjoyed traveling to Bordeaux and Spain every year for about 10-12 days (about 7-8 days in Bordeaux + 3-4 days in Spain) during the "En Primeur" period (around mid-April), with part of his team, to taste wines and plan future purchases. 

For five years, from 2002 to 2007, I planned and scheduled these trips in advance by booking visits to the châteaux, making appointments with various négociants, as well as participating to most of the "En Primeur" tastings, such as the "Cru Bourgeois" and the prestigious "Union des Grands Crus" (including booking all the hotels and restaurants in the various appelations and regions we visited). 

Besides working as a wine consultant (then wine director) and one of the wine buyers at his retail store and for the website, I also served as a PA and chauffeur during our travels. Every day, I drove the team from 8am until late at night, visiting 2-3 châteaux in the morning, then having lunch at a restaurant, a château, or with a négociant. The afternoons included more château visits or tastings, and we ended the day with dinner at a restaurant, a château, or with a négociant. Afterwards, we returned to our hotel or the château hosting us, such as Pichon Baron, where we had the opportunity to stay several years in a row. These were full days with busy schedules, as Peter aimed to maximize each day.  

It was a tough job, with extended hours, seven days a week, but it was worth it, and I loved every minute of it. Because, besides tasting, buying, and selling some of the most prestigious wines in the world, who wouldn't enjoy traveling to regions where they're produced to taste them at the property with the owners and/or the winemakers and having lunch and dinner at some of the best Chateaux and restaurants in Bordeaux, the Basque region, and Spain? 

I will always be grateful to Peter Yi, as he offered me the opportunity to do all that and so much more. Interestingly, we both had a certain character and often clashed. He, being Korean American, and I, being French and very opinionated, I guess he saw me as arrogant and annoying. 😅😅😅

And yet, he appreciated the job I was doing for him and saw added value in me. And although he told me every day that he would fire me, he kept me by his side and under his wing for five years. It was more like one of those love-hate relationships between employer and employee, and it always ended with sharing some food and a glass of wine and laughing with the rest of the team at the back of the store. 😉👍🍷    

In April 2003, we took our first trip together as a team to Bordeaux. Every day, we had a full schedule visiting properties in various appellations. For Pessac-Leognan, aside from Châteaux such as Haut-Brion, Pape Clément, Carbonnieux, Smith-Haut-Lafitte, and Domaine de Chevalier, I had also arranged a visit to Château Haut-Bailly. 

It was a beautiful day. We were driving around Pessac-Leognan after visiting a few other Châteaux in the area when we finally arrived at Château Haut-Bailly. 

We were greeted by Véronique Sanders and Robert G. Wilmers, who were having a conversation near the Chateau entrance. Véronique showed us around the property and the cellar before guiding us into a small room by the cellar to taste the wines, the Grand Vin "Chateau Haut-Bailly" and the 2nd wine "La Parde de Haut-Bailly."    

While tasting the wines, we asked her a few questions about the differences and transition between her family and Bob Wilmers, who now owned the estate. She told us she was heartbroken at first when her grandfather decided to sell the property. Yet, she was also very excited and pleased, as the purchase had brought about changes, new perspectives, and improved practices in vineyard and cellar management, along with all the benefits that came with them. It was a change for the better.  

Appointed as CEO a few years earlier, both the estate and Véronique were in capable hands, looking toward a bright future. It's never easy to work with new owners when it was once your family property. Still, Bob was dedicated and passionate, and by keeping Véronique on his team, he preserved part of the family history and legacy.       

We were tasting "barrel samples" of the 2002 vintage, a difficult vintage often referred to as "classic" or "traditional," as they say in Bordeaux. In fact, it was definitely not one of the best. The wines we tasted so far were lean and often showed underripeness, high acidity, and green, astringent tannins. Although some good wines were made in the Médoc, most of the wines from Pessac-Léognan, and especially the Merlot-based wines of the Right Bank, showed less body, less substance, and more greenness.     

That said, I was surprised by the fleshiness and juiciness of the 2002 Haut-Bailly wines we were tasting, especially considering the high percentage of Merlot in the blend (35%) of the Grand Vin. 

Were the barrel samples selected for the "En Primeur" based on their quality rather than being truly representative of the vintage? (as it was common practice back then, but then again, there's nothing wrong with showing the best samples when presenting your wine to buyers from around the world to ensure sales during the "En Primeur" tasting...) 

Or was it because we were tasting them at the property, which usually imparts or even influences your judgment on the true quality of the wine? (difficult to criticize a wine when in the presence of the owner or the winemaker...)

I couldn't say... However, these were good compared to many of the other wines we tasted during that trip. In the end, it made that visit to Haut-Bailly even more memorable. And we ended up buying quite a few cases "En Primeur".   

In the following years, we visited Haut-Bailly several times during the En Primeur, always with the same enthusiasm. We were consistently welcomed by Veronique or Gabriel Vialard. We truly witnessed the wines and the estate improve from one year to the next.  

In 2007, after five great years where I learned much more than I expected, I left PJWine.com and Peter Yi to work for a smaller store in Brooklyn Heights called "Heights Chateau" to slow down the pace and have more time for my family, especially since my son was only one year old and I wanted to spend more time with him. 

Since my last visit to Haut-Bailly in the mid-2000s, I haven't had the chance to return there for various reasons. However, over the years, I was able to continue witnessing the evolution of Haut-Bailly through the "Union des Grands Crus" (UGCB) tastings.  

In 2011, I moved to Hong Kong, where I continued sourcing, buying, tasting, and serving Haut-Bailly, as it became a staple of my selections over time. I also continue to taste it every year at the UGCB tastings.  

In 2012, Robert G. Wilmers acquired the neighboring property, Chateau Le Pape, also located within the Pessac-Leognan appellation.  

In July 2017, an ambitious project for a new cellar, designed by architect Daniel Romeo, was presented to Bob Wilmers, who approved it immediately. Unfortunately, Bob passed away in December of that same year, and his son, Chris, inherited the property. The project commenced in 2018 and was completed within two years (by the end of 2020).   

In 2021, the new cellar was inaugurated. A state-of-the-art facility that blends seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. It features a curved, streamlined design with a suspended garden and has received excellent HQE certification for its environmental sustainability. The cellar utilizes high-precision technical equipment and is designed to adapt to climate change, allowing for more precise and elegant winemaking. It marked a new era, enabling them to make even better wines than before. 

In 2022, the vineyards expanded in size following the merger of the vines from Château Le Pape into Château Haut-Bailly, making 2021 the last vintage produced under the Château Le Pape label.  

Today, Chris Wilmers and Veronique Sanders continue to focus on making the finest wine possible at Chateau Haut-Bailly, which is regarded as one of the best in its appellation and in Bordeaux overall.  

Chateau Haut-Bailly Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux 2010

A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, Haut-Bailly 2010 remains vibrant and lively even after 15 years, and is likely to continue doing so for many more years to come. The 2010 vintage in Bordeaux was a promise of quality and concentration, thanks to July, which was hot and sunny, resulting in water stress that halted plant growth and led to better concentration and ripeness in smaller grapes. The contrasting cool night brought balance and freshness. Attentive winemaking, including precise harvesting and gentle extraction with controlled fermentation temperatures (around 26°C to prevent high alcohol content), was key to producing an exceptional wine.  

The resulting wine is quite dense, rich, and even powerful, with good ageing potential still remaining. Beyond its dark, opaque color, it offers enticing notes of dark fruit and blackberry, mingling with secondary and tertiary aromas. The palate is condensed and textured, with a complex structure, enhanced by enough acidity to keep it fresh and balanced. The finish is long, generous, and earthy. What a wine!  

I was hesitant to decant it that night for that dinner, but I should have as it would have undoubtedly benefited from it. Fortunately, I opened it more than an hour before serving it. 

My advice: buy a few bottles, drink one now to taste it, and keep the others in your cellar for a while, if you have the patience to do so. 😄👍🍷 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @chateauhautbailly #hautbailly #pessacleognan #bordeaux #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #tastingnotes #ilovemyjob #lovewine

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LeDomduVin: A HUGE THANK YOU for 45,000+ views in the last 7 days

A HUGE THANK YOU 

for 45,000+ views in the last 7 days

Every now and then, I like to thank all my readers because you are the fuel of my inspiration and the motivation to keep writing on this blog and across various social media platforms. You are amazing, and today even better than ever before.  

I became a Wine Blogger when I started this blog 17 years ago, in 2008, with no expectations, simply to share my knowledge and passion for wine with the world. 

Initially, I was content with having only a few dozen views a week. Then, in about 5 years, the number grew to a few hundred, which was already extraordinary for me, as I'm just an unknown Sommelier and Wine Buyer, not a public figure and not even an influencer (as we say nowadays). 

After about 9 years, the number of views continued to grow, reaching a few thousand per week. This was unexpected yet so satisfying. And in November 2017, it reached the stratospheric number of 17,500+ views per week.  I was speechless.   

Last year, this number often exceeded 20,000 views per week. My happiness was indescribable.  

This year, the number of views per week has been oscillating between 20,000 and 35,000, which is both incredible and unbelievable. 

Over the past few weeks, this number has exceeded 40,000 views per week, reaching over 45,000 views...  

This is truly incredible, and I still can't believe it. I can't thank you enough for the attention and dedication you're giving to my blog, and indirectly to me and my writing.  

I have always been very creative since childhood. I loved drawing and creating collages; I also love photography and art in general. I have even been making my own music since 2020 under the alias DOMELGABOR. But the thing I have always been the best at is writing.   

I fell in love with writing early on, first in French and then later in English. I enjoyed inventing and imagining stories, writing them in notebooks. Between the ages of 10 and 18, I wrote about eight books that I never published and have since lost over the years.  

This blog has been (and continues to be) a platform for me to share stories—both true and fictional—about my personal life, my career, wines from around the world, and my experiences as a Sommelier and Wine Buyer over the past 33 years, as well as insights into the world of wine.    

All your views, likes, and comments are sincerely appreciated, and I thank you all for that! You make my day, every day!  

THANK YOU, 45,000 times to all of you! You are truly amazing!

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #thankyou #merci #blog #wineblog #views #viewsperweek #thankyouall #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #blogger #wineblogger #ilovewine 

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LeDomduVin: Korean food paired with Burgundy wines

Korean food paired with Burgundy wines

Pairing Korean food and wine can be tricky due to the bold and varied flavors in Korean cuisine, but it's definitely doable. The secret is to select wines that enhance, rather than fight against, the food's qualities and flavors, favoring wines with bright acidity, fruit-forward profiles, and moderate tannins. 

Over time, I have learned that when pairing Korean food with wine, it's better to focus on the main protein or dish rather than the side dishes. Keep the wine versatile enough to simplify the pairing process, rather than trying to find wines that complement every flavor.

Generally, it's better to avoid heavy and tannic red wines, as they can clash with spicy or savory dishes. Choosing lighter-bodied reds with good acidity is usually a safer option. However, most sommeliers and connoisseurs will tell you that dry or slightly off-dry, yet crisp, whites, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, are generally good choices for spicy dishes. Off-dry wines can be a good match for Korean dishes that have some sweetness or spice.  

Korean dishes often feature a mix of spicy, sweet, salty, and umami flavors, making it challenging to find a single wine that pairs well with all of them. Still, I was up for the challenge and chose Burgundy wines, which generally also pair well with Korean food.  

The host wanted me to serve only red wine, but, as mentioned above, I knew I had to bring some white wine as well, since it's usually better appreciated with Korean food. I usually follow my instincts, and luckily, I did again, as the white wine turned out to be more successful than the red.  

The challenge was to find a fruit-forward white wine with bright acidity and good minerality, complex enough to complement the food without overpowering it. Chassagne-Montrachet came to mind, and given my recent successful pairing experience with the succulent Batard-Montrachet from Fontaine-Gagnard at another event, I decided to opt for their Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 (one of my favorites from Chassagne), which combines complexity, amplitude, and freshness.   

For the red, I chose a Volnay. Known for its freshness, elegance, delicate character, and moderate tannins, it's often described as a "feminine" wine, especially when compared to the more robust wines of Pommard, its neighbor. Coincidentally, I also brought a Pommard in case the host and his guests found the Volnay too light. 

The wines received praise from the attendees, especially the white wine, which was delightful and paired exceptionally well with the food. My taste buds also confirmed this, as I had the opportunity to sample some of the food in the kitchen, paired with a bit of each wine. Tasting food and wine together is crucial for a sommelier, as it is the only way to develop a refined palate and create palate memories that enhance one's taste, experience, and knowledge. Once again, I was happy and content with the choices I made. 

 

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Caillerets" 2020

Having opened their superb Batard-Montrachet 2020 a few days earlier, I wanted to revisit the experience. However, since Korean food requires more acidity, this Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 would be an ideal pairing. I hadn't tried it in a while, but knowing the quality of Fontaine-Gagnard's wines and their unmistakable freshness and minerality, I wasn't taking much risk and was confident it would be a hit.   

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard was established in 1985 by Laurence Gagnard, a member of the Gagnard family in Chassagne, and Richard Fontaine. Since 2007, the domaine has been skillfully led by Céline Fontaine, who blends youthful energy and a touch of tradition with the Burgundian legacy established by her parents, creating classic examples of some of Burgundy's most renowned climats. The domaine produces wine from three Grand Crus and twelve different Premier Crus, including iconic parcels such as Le Montrachet, Les Caillerets, and La Romanée.

This Chassagne-Montrachet comes from a 0.56-hectare plot called "Vigne Derriere," which was purchased by Celine's parents in the late 1990s as part of the Premier Cru vineyard "Les Caillerets." The vines, planted between 1962 and 1966 (approximately 60 years old), grow at an altitude of 220 to 325 meters on clay-limestone soils, with optimal southeast sun exposure. The soil in the upper part of the vineyard is very shallow, steep, and dotted with white stones, while the lower part is rich in clay.  

The grapes are hand-harvested. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occur directly in barrels for 10-15 days using native yeasts. The wine is then aged for approximately 11 months in new and used barrels, comprising one-third new oak, one-third 2-year-old oak, and one-third 3-year-old oak. Afterward, it is fined (clarified with casein and bentonite) and lightly filtered before bottling. 

The Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2020 is a masterpiece of elegance, subtlety, and refined complexity, enhanced by excellent acidity and mineral notes. In the glass, it has a pale straw color with green reflections. The nose is charming and enticing, offering a blend of citrus and stone fruit aromas that mingle with herbal, floral, waxy, and buttery hints. Light to medium-bodied on the palate, it feels incredibly fresh with razor-sharp acidity. The flavors mirror those on the nose—straight, focused, complex, layered, yet light on its feet. It is elegant and graceful like a ballerina, gently expanding toward a long, buttery, mineral finish. I would compare it to a lighter version of their Batard-Montrachet. Celine definitely has the magic touch!      

Domaine Xavier Monnot Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Chenes" 2021

Xavier Monnot is a notable producer in Meursault, recognized for a winemaking style that highlights purity of fruit, elegance, and complexity. Before releasing the 2005 vintage, the estate was known as Domaine René Monnier, named after Xavier's grandfather. In 2005, with improvements to his vineyard and cellar, Xavier began bottling his wines under his own label. 

Domaine Xavier Monnot is a 42-acre estate in Meursault with vineyards stretching from Beaune to Maranges. Sixty percent of the Domaine's production is white and forty percent red, with several premier cru vineyards in Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune, Volnay, and Maranges. Xavier believes in maintaining an average vine age of 30 to 40 years and practices "lutte raisonnée." (*)

Clos des Chênes is the largest premier cru in Volnay, situated between the premier cru of Taille Pieds and the border of Monthelie. The soil there has a high limestone content, producing wines with a perfumed character, finesse, and generous fruit notes. Half of Xavier Monnot’s 2-acre parcel was planted in 1936, with the other half planted in 1978. The wine is aged for 12 to 14 months in 30-35% new French oak. 

For this event, I chose a Volnay to pair with the Korean food, as Volnay is often described as silky and elegant, with high acidity and moderate tannins. The various premier crus situated south of the village, such as Clos des Chênes, have soil with a high percentage of limestone and exhibit the classic Volnay character of perfume and finesse.

Xavier Monnot Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes 2021 is a subtle yet underrated wine. It is generally light to medium-bodied, featuring high acidity, moderate to low alcohol content, and low tannin levels, which make it versatile, easy to enjoy, and suitable for pairing with food. In the glass, it presents a light garnet hue that is clear with medium intensity. Initially shy on the nose, it gradually opened up to reveal aromas of red and dark cherries, complemented by floral, herbal, and peppery notes. On the palate, it is light, fresh, vibrant, crisp, and acidic, while still offering complexity and finesse. After about an hour of airing, it mellowed and became perfectly balanced, complementing food without overpowering it. Strangely enough, this wine was not heavily affected by the oak, as there isn't much wood flavor for a wine aged 12-14 years in oak barrels. Nice wine! (even if a bit light for my taste).  

  

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Pommard "Les Vignots" 2019

Born in 1974, Nicolas Rossignol is the fifth generation of winemakers in Volnay. He has been producing wine since 1994 at the family estate Rossignol-Jeanniard.

After studying winemaking in high school in Beaune, Nicolas gained experience working at various estates, including Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay, Domaine Louis Latour in Ardèche, and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. He also worked in South Africa at Boschendal in 1995, and then in Bordeaux at Château La Cardonne, managed by Château Lafite Rothschild.

In 1997, he founded his own estate, which started with 3 hectares in the villages of Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Aloxe-Corton, and Pernand-Vergelesses. By 1998, the estate grew to approximately 16 hectares.

In 2005, he expanded with new appellations: Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Fourneaux and Lavières, as well as Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roy.

In 2011, all wines began to be produced under the label « Domaine Nicolas Rossignol, » encompassing a total of 30 different appellations. Nicolas moved to Beaune to allow for more space.

In 2014, he acquired an additional 1.5 hectares in the Pommard and Pommard 1er Cru appellations, thereby further increasing production.

By 2016, Nicolas planned to build a new winery to continue crafting high-quality wines. Today, the estate covers about 17 hectares.

"Les Vignots" is not a 1er Cru but a lieu-dit, and also the name of the plot, located above the hill of Pommard, near the Arvelets, on the Beaune side with a south exposure. The vines are planted on a steep slope with poor, rocky soil, which is a result of erosion. This plot (characterized by this terroir) wasn’t affected by Phylloxera in the 19th century; as a result, its vines were used to create grafted vines in Côte de Beaune. The vines are between 30 and 40 years old, typically producing fresh, mineral wines with chalky tannins. The sunny period and southern exposure help all elements reach perfect maturity.

Nicolas Rossignol's wines are crafted from carefully selected grapes from vineyards cultivated using traditional winemaking techniques inspired by biodynamic principles. The vineyard is managed with "reasoned" viticulture practices, considering the lunar influence during both cultivation and wine production & aging. No chemical herbicides are used; soil maintenance is achieved through light plowing.

Unfortunately, there's not much to say about this bottle of Pommard, as it didn't taste great, despite my high expectations, especially given the excellent 2019 vintage in Burgundy. And the worst part is that I couldn't tell if it was because it was a bad bottle or because I just dislike it... Already, on the nose, it displayed funky and earthy aromas. The palate was unharmonious, with rough edges, a lack of fruit, substance, and texture, and featured weird acidity and dry, earthy, almost green tannins that were out of place, along with a bitter, unripe finish. Definitely not my taste, and, needless to say, not in line with the quality of the vintage.  

Shame, I usually love the wines of Nicolas Rossignol, but this one was disappointing. Bad bottle? Maybe. I still have 2 bottles in stock. I will give it another try.     

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Lutte Raisonnée, which translates to "reasoned struggle" or "reasoned approach" in English, refers to an agricultural method, particularly in viticulture, where growers minimize chemical use but retain the option to apply them when essential to safeguard their crops. It serves as a balanced approach between conventional and organic farming, allowing growers to be environmentally conscious without the strict requirements of organic certification. 

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LeDomduVin: "R" de Rieussec Bordeaux 2020 or how I changed my "à priori" about this wine.

 

"R" de Rieussec Bordeaux 2020 or 

How I changed my "à priori" about this wine.

About 4 years ago, I bought a few cases of this wine for a private party, without expecting much of it. The host was looking for a quaffable white Bordeaux, and the supplier I was buying champagne and red wines from, which were also going to be served at the party, only had a choice of three Bordeaux white wines in sufficient quantities. So, there was not much choice.

The organizing team and I held a tasting lunch about a month before the party with three different whites, and "R" was the one that was chosen. It was good, but not as satisfying as I had hoped. 

Also, 2020 wasn't a particularly good vintage for white Bordeaux, definitely not as strong as 2019 or 2021, for example. Even the average critic scores on Wine-Searcher only reached 87/100, which is relatively low, especially for a wine priced around 25 Euros. 

I had so much "à priori" about this wine that I even wanted to contact another supplier to make a last-minute choice. Still, I was advised not to, as it was easier to order all the necessary wines from one supplier, given the good discount that would be hard to match.     

Although I have nothing against Rieussec, I have always been fond of their Sauternes. When it comes to Bordeaux white, "R" de Rieussec is definitely not the first to come to mind. Although it was selected, my expectations for guest satisfaction were pretty low. This made me uneasy when we served it, since I like to create a "wow" factor with all the wines I serve.

Among a crowd of over 100 people, this white was the least consumed and, obviously, the least appreciated of the wines served that night.

I'm usually very critical of my choices, and with decades of experience, I rarely make mistakes. Still, I was disappointed to have made such a rookie mistake. As a Bordeaux native with thirty years of experience selling Bordeaux wines, I know I could have made a better choice.   

After the party, I put the leftover wine aside in a corner of the cellar, about 30 bottles, promising not to serve it and even forget about it until recently. 

Not knowing how it tasted after nearly 4 years and thinking it probably had lost all its freshness, I brought a bottle to a recent event and asked my colleagues to taste it with me to see if it had changed and to check whether its quality was still good enough to drink or if it was better to give it to our chef to cook with.

"R" de Rieussec Bordeaux Blanc 2020

 

"R" de Rieussec is a dry white wine made by Château Rieussec, the renowned Sauternes estate better known for its sweet wines. The wine was introduced after Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) purchased the estate in 1984 as part of a broader effort to highlight the estate's potential. It also helped improve vineyard selection and more careful sorting, as it is produced from young vines and certain plots not used for the Grand Vin. The 1997 vintage is significant because it marks the transition to the current winemaking method, which involves complete vinification in barrels to add more texture, structure, and complexity to the wine. 

Although both wines usually come from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (with citrus, herbaceous notes, and acidity), Semillon (the backbone of most Sauternes, adding body and aromas of apricot and beeswax), and Muscadelle (for aromatic complexity), the blend of "R" generally has a higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc compared to Sauternes.   

The 2020 vintage is a blend of approximately 57% Sauvignon Blanc and 53% Sémillon. In the glass, it displayed a pale gold color with green reflections. To my surprise, the nose was quite intense and more complex than I remembered. It offered enticing aromas of citrus, apricot, and yellow stone fruits, with hints of exotic fruits mingling with notes of butter and minerals. The palate was surprisingly coating, rich, ample yet still lively (not too flabby as I thought it would), with more citrus, apricot, beeswax, and buttery notes. The finish also seemed longer than I remembered. It could have used a bit more acidity to balance it, but it still maintained some freshness. 

I left the bottle for my colleagues, who really appreciated it and even asked for more; however, I had only brought one bottle to taste. It made me reconsider not serving it again. In fact, I might use it at one of our next events. 

I was pleasantly surprised, as memories of when I last tasted it four years ago had led me to expect it would have worsened. Yet, I was wrong, and revisiting it changed my "à priori" opinion about this wine. It had nicely evolved, and although it is not the most exciting white Bordeaux, it remains a very quaffable choice, which is what was required in the first place. 

That is the beauty of wine: it is a living being that constantly evolves over time, changing its potential, taste, flavors, and profile depending on its environment and storage conditions. Therefore, one should never assume or approach wine with "a priori" thinking (like I did), and should always taste a wine as if it were the first time, because you never know— it might have evolved and improved.       

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Une belle brochette de Sommeliers

Une belle brochette de Sommeliers 

avec de belles bouteilles de Bordeaux 

Souvenir from June 2018.  I recently retrieved this picture from my time working at Goldin as Wine Quality Control Director and corporate Sommelier, where I was responsible for stock management and wine service for all the company's events and dinners.    

Back then, the Goldin Tower comprised a few restaurants, including the acclaimed French (fusion) restaurant called "Le Pan", where Lauri worked for a while as Wine Director (Head Sommelier and Wine Buyer), and a renowned Chinese restaurant called "Dynasty Garden" where Jameson worked also for a little while, also as Wine Director (Head Sommelier and Wine Buyer). 

We occasionally joined forces and helped each other for events that required manpower to serve the wine, usually when we had VVIPs at the tables, as seen in this picture from a particular dinner in June 2018.    

The four of us formed "Une belle brochette de Sommeliers" alongside some of the finest sommeliers in Hong Kong at the time.  

From left: Lauri Vainio (@finsomm), Danny Chan, Dominique Noël (@ledomduvin) Jameson Chim (@jamesonchim) 😁👍🍷

As you can see in this picture, these were good times when we opened fantastic bottles every day! 

It is a bit difficult to see them clearly in this picture, but that night we served (from left): 

• Chateau Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien 2000
• Chateau Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol 1982
• Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou Saint-Julien 1990
• Chateau Angelus Saint-Emilion 1990
• Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes 2007

Sweet memory!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

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LeDomduVin: A "Whistling " Selection!

A "Whistling " Selection! 

I could have written an "impressive" selection, but I preferred using the word "whistling" instead, as an adjective, referring to the sound we sometimes make when we are really impressed. 😁👍🍷😙🎵🎵

I recently selected and served these wines at a private dinner, and they were absolutely delicious. 😋😋😋

Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne Brut 2015

A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, Cristal 2015 is beautifully crafted, fresh, elegant, mineral, and highly refined. The blend is a subtle combination of the three emblematic vineyards of the house: one-third from the vineyards of "la Rivière," one-third from "la Montagne," and one-third from "la Côte." The crus used to make this exceptional champagne are Verzenay, Verzy, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Ay, Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Cramant. Vinification takes place in wood for 25%. There is no malolactic fermentation. The dosage of this Brut Champagne is 7 grams per liter.

A beautiful, radiant, pale golden yellow color. It features lively bubbles and displays great finesse. The nose reveals vibrant, concentrated aromas of yellow fruits (white peach and mirabelle plum), with hints of hazelnut and roasted almonds. The palate is fresh, generous, and rich, with a silky texture that unveils notes of preserved citrus fruit and hints of spices. The palate emphasizes freshness and precision, culminating in a finish that features subtle woody and saline notes, resulting in a lovely blend of finesse and concentration. Love it! 

Fontaine-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2020

Fontaine-Gagnard represents a genuine Burgundian romance. The tale began in the 1980s when Richard Fontaine married Laurence Gagnard. Since 2007, Celine Fontaine has increasingly taken charge of winemaking from her father, leading to a remarkable rise in the quality of the wines in recent years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard has experienced an incredible rise in quality and reputation over the past decade. The wines exhibit fantastic purity and minerality, combined with a delightful weight and richness of fruit. This is a very sophisticated and stylish Domaine producing some of the most coveted wines from Chassagne-Montrachet, showcasing a remarkable intensity of fruit that beautifully conveys their outstanding terroir.

The Batard-Montrachet 2020 is an outstanding wine that combines elegance, refinement, and generosity with complexity and richness. It showcases a captivating pale golden color in the glass. The nose is exuberant and enticing, featuring aromas of white and yellow fruits mingling with buttery and toasted nuances, all enhanced by great minerality. The palate is gorgeous, generous, and creamy, extremely well-balanced and focused, with no harshness whatsoever. It is complemented by that unmistakable waxy mineral sensation that coats the palate from the attack and gently expands through to the seamless, lingering finish.  What a wine! Superb!    

Benjamin Leroux Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru 2018 (Mag)

Often referred to as the natural heir of Henri Jayer, Benjamin Leroux is one of the discreet rising stars crafting outstanding wines from village to Grand Cru levels, demonstrating a profoundly classic Burgundian style with a delightful, refreshing twist. His wines are classic in that they are not huge powerhouses, overly oaked, or excessively extracted. On the contrary, they blend freshness, elegance, silky texture, focus, and refinement in a soft, precise, and delicate manner.

At the age of 24, Benjamin Leroux assumed winemaking duties at Domaine Comte Armand, stepping in for his mentor, Pascal Marchand. This was a significant challenge for a young winemaker. Nevertheless, his inaugural wines in 1999 were hailed as the highlights of the vintage. Following his tenure at Comte Armand, he shifted his focus to his own winery in Beaune, where he runs a small négociant operation.

To produce his wines, Benjamin Leroux sources grapes (never juice or wine) from his vineyards and those of others, always selecting vineyards that practice over 50% organic viticulture and adhere to specific viticultural and environmental standards. Not one to shy away from challenging traditions, Benjamin Leroux also uses screw caps on some of his entry-level wines, ensuring that those intended for early consumption remain fresh and lively. 

As a Negociant rather than a vineyard owner, Benjamin Leroux's wines are highly sought-after by connoisseurs and sommeliers due to their limited quantities. His balanced, fresh, and versatile wines perfectly pair with all kinds of dishes.     

Benjamin Leroux's Griotte-Chambertin production is quite limited, with only one 450-liter barrel produced in some years (approximately 600 regular 750ml bottles, though often less since he also produces some magnums). This Grand Cru vineyard is among the smallest in Gevrey-Chambertin, with Leroux's vines located in the upper southern section. Leroux's contract for this vineyard concluded with the 2022 vintage, marking it as the last vintage of this wine under his winemaking. 

In 2022, I was fortunate enough to purchase two cases of six magnums of the 2018 vintage. I bought them more by instinct rather than knowledge, as I had heard of him but was not really familiar with his wines at the time, as I had never had the chance to taste them before. I opened two of these magnums for a private dinner back then, and they were the highlights of the night, with guests praising the wine's quality.    

A few days ago, at another private dinner where I opened the wines mentioned in this post, I had the opportunity to open another one of these magnums, and the wine had improved even more over the last three years since I acquired it.  

Leroux's Griotte-Chambertin 2018 in magnum is a masterpiece of elegance and silkiness. In the glass, it shows a discreet, medium-intensity garnet color. The nose is quite charming and unassuming, almost shy yet delivering very "à propos" fresh aromas of "griottes" (wild red cherries) and other red berries, mingling with fresh mineral, hearty, and floral notes. The palate is light and fresh, soft and silky, enhanced by excellent acidity, with an implied elegant complexity and delicate texture, even if not exuberant, inherent to most of Leroux's wines. This Griotte-Chambertin, like most of Leroux's wines, is sharp, precise, focused, and sophisticated. It was even more expressive after 45 minutes of being opened.  Loved it! 

      

Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 1998

No introduction is needed for this illustrious Chateau, which, as I have expressed so many times on this blog, is my favorite Bordeaux wine. The nose is fragrant, filled with intoxicating aromas of dark fruits and berries, including plum, as well as notes of forest floor and mushroom, mingling with those of oak, cigar, liquorice, and spices, alongside characteristic hints of tar and smoke. The palate reflects the nose’s flavors with greater intensity. It offers a medium to deep, layered, and complex character with a chewy texture, remaining lively and youthful due to its great acidity. It is well-structured with present yet integrated tannins. The lingering finish is earthy and presents tremendous potential for further ageing. This 1998 vintage is one of my favorites from the 90s, which has evolved beautifully over the past decade and promises to stand the test of time for many years to come. After about an hour, it became even more delightful, with additional secondary and tertiary notes, and a lot more licorice. What a beauty!            

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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