Wednesday, October 16, 2024

LeDomduVin: Do you buy wine for the wine itself or to pair with food?



Do you buy wine for the wine itself or to pair with food?



I had an interesting conversation last night with some colleagues, Sommeliers, and servers about the differences in how restaurant Sommeliers buy wine nowadays compared to how I buy wine (and have been buying for the past 33 years).

It is a fascinating and vast subject that I might develop further in a separate post, as it involves differences in palates, personalities, cultures, traditions, etc., and, therefore, cannot be resumed in a simple post.

However, to give you the short version, they told me they buy wine to pair with food. I told them that, personally, I buy wine first for the intrinsic quality and taste of the wine alone, without thinking about the food pairing.

(You might think it is strange for an experienced Sommelier like me, but hear me out).

I mostly buy wines that give me (and my customers) instant satisfaction and gratification on the first sip. Wines that immediately call for another glass right after the first one.

I buy wines you want to drink without thinking about them, trying to understand them, or finding an excuse for their flaws by saying, "It would be great if paired with this or that kind of food!" No! That's bullshit.

Think about it. If both the food and wine are already respectively good on their own, pairing them, if well-matched, will result in a greater experience.

I never understood the Sommeliers who buy certain wines that do not taste really good on their own (unbalanced, too acidic, too much tannins, overripped, underrippped, bitter, sour, etc..) but are supposedly great when paired with such and such food.

You know the usual Sommelier jargon: "I understand your concern, yet the high acidity, sourness, and rustic tannins of this wine will sublime the sweetness of this dish!"

No! Once again, that's bullshit! The wine should be good on its own, and that's it!. Otherwise, what's the point of buying and serving it? What's the point if the wine has a great story behind it but, in the end, nothing to tell when you taste it? 

I basically put myself in the shoes of my customers and patrons. They usually come to a restaurant to have a good time, spend some time with family, friends, or co-workers, and enjoy the decor, the food, the wine, the ambiance, the atmosphere, etc. They may come for a special occasion, in good company, or just to relax and enjoy. They want to leave with a memorable and joyful experience.  

So imagine if the Sommelier serves what I call a "cerebral wine. " You know, the type of wine that is difficult to understand and not necessarily pleasurable at first sip despite the endless explanations of the Sommelier trying to convince you it is a great wine that will go well with the dish you chose. The ones that necessitate you scratching your head, wondering whether you might like it. 

Unfortunately, nowadays, it happens more often than not, especially from Sommeliers who follow trends or adulate some supposedly genius winemakers producing unfathomable wines that need a plethora of justifications, excuses, and explanations to suddenly become drinkable.   

I leave that to them. I'm an old-school Sommelier who follows his palate and guts and likes pleasurable things to eat, drink, and smoke. 

As mentioned above, I prefer to buy and serve wines that give you instant satisfaction and gratification on the first sip—wines with a "Wow!" factor—wines that give you emotions and leave you speechless rather than bewildered. 

For example, the other day, a colleague Sommelier had me taste a wine from his list from a producer I had heard from but had never tasted before. This is supposedly an upcoming producer, a rising star (as they say), recently established and producing small quantities of wines highly coveted by many Sommeliers and cavistes. I won't give any name, as tasting is subjective. Everyone is entitled to his own opinion. And mentioning his name won't do me good (or the producer).   

However, although I was grateful to be able to taste the wine, as it is essential for a Sommelier to taste everything (especially wines he or she does not know), I must say, I was a little disappointed by the wine. It was thin, light, and slightly bitter, with high acidity, no concentration or complexity, and a short finish. The typical Sommelier wine displaying everything it has to offer upfront, high acidity to be paired with food, but vanishes quickly and does not leave any memorable impression or taste. It was not faulty or bad; it was just "meh"... 

And I must say, it was not the first time I was disappointed by the wines some of my Sommelier colleagues chose to feature on their wine lists. That's because they buy wine with the food in mind (to go with the food), not for its intrinsic quality and taste, but for what it may offer when paired with food.  

Which is understandable to a certain extent. It is their way of buying wine, and I respect it.  But in the end, if the wine necessitates lots of explanation to be understood and appreciated, what's the point? Where is the customer's pleasure in all this? What kind of experience will he or she have drinking such wine? 

And my reasoning applies to everything in life. If you buy shoes, for example, you will not buy them simply because the vendor recommended them and gave you a whole story about them. You will buy them because you like the design, the color, and other details, how they fit your feet and your style, and, most importantly, how comfortable you are in them. No?   

Well, for me, it is the same. I buy good to excellent wines (you need wines that fit all budgets) that make you feel good, at ease, and relaxed. Wines that are expressive, complex, and satisfying from beginning to end. Wines that don't leave you hanging for more in mid-palate while it will never come. Wines that don't need 30 minutes of justifications, excuses, and explanations to be understood and appreciated. 

When tasting a wine, the first reaction should be, "Wow! That's good!" rather than, "I'm not sure if I like this!" 

"A wine should trigger pleasure and enjoyment, not questions."  - Dom 


Of course, some wines may be less expressive, tight, or closed at the opening (especially if young and in a closed phase). They may take a little time to open and deliver their full potential (usually after oxygenation or decantation). Nevertheless, they will give pleasure once opened, and even more, if well-paired with the food.   

That is why I buy wine first for the wine itself and then try to match it, to the best of my knowledge and skills, with the dish. It is wrong, in my opinion, to buy a wine primarily thinking it will enhance the food and vice versa.  

For me, you buy the wine to be drunk on its own first. If a wine is already good to great on its own, then it is the Sommelier's job to know which food to pair it with.

My daily routine involves buying, preparing, and serving wines for private and corporate dinners and events. In most cases, I know the menu in advance, but I rarely taste the dishes in advance. So how would I know how to buy the wine with the food in mind if I do not know the exact taste of the food? I must know the wine first, then establish which dish it will best pair with. That's why the wine has to be pleasurable on its own first, as the pairing (and tasting) is also very subjective.  

Lucky me, after 33 years of experience, I rarely go wrong as I know my wines even if I don't know the taste of the food.   
   
For example, the 3 wines in this picture are stunning examples of excellent wines I served lately for a private dinner. They were magnificent with the food, greatly enhancing the whole experience. Did I buy them with the food in mind or to be paired with the food served that particular night? No! Not at all. I just looked at the available stocks in the cellar and made a decision based on my knowledge, skills, and guts.  And it worked perfectly.   

What do you think? Do you buy wine for the wine itself or to pair with food?


I could go on for pages about the subject, but I will stop here instead. I think you've got a good picture of the point I was trying to make. 

In the end, it's all subjective. I respect the opinions and tastes of everyone, even those of my Sommelier colleagues, which can sometimes be questionable. 😉 And yet, that's what makes wine so interesting: there is one for everyone and every palate.  

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

That night I opened, prepared and served the following wines: 


Champagne Henriot L'inattendue Chardonnay Grand Cru 2016


Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Cote de Beaune Burgundy 2019


Domaine Tortochot Chambertin Grand Cru Cote de Nuits Burgundy 2015




NB: tasting notes coming soon

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Monday, October 14, 2024

LeDomduVin: Palatable wines




Palatable wines



Serving great wines around 150 euros can be difficult, as there are many wines in this price range (and under, of course) from around the world. 

Yet, when the host asks for recognizable French labels or crus, my selection usually goes for Champagne, Burgundy, and/or Bordeaux, which constitute about 90% of the wines I buy (and have been buying throughout my 33-year Sommelier and Wine buyer career). 

Navigating the myriad of producers in these 3 regions can be challenging, so I always try to find the best quality-price ratio within the portfolios of my local suppliers. The most palatable wines to match the menu.   


That night I opened: 





Champagne Dom Perignon Vintage 2013

Light, dry, crisp, fresh, zesty, lightly toasted, and mineral, it is well-balanced and satisfying. Ideal as an aperitif and with fish or shellfish starters. A quaffer! 






Bachelet-Monnot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Referts" Burgundy 2019

I do not know what it is or how to describe it, but there is an indescribable sense of minerality and purity in Bachelet-Monnot's wines that I have always loved. Nothing is in excess in their wines.  And this Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Referts" is yet another great example of it. Lightly buttery, mineral, waxy, ample, and generous, with yellow stone fruits and apple aromas and flavors, exceptionally well balanced and lingering. Definitely the type of wine that makes you want to love wine. The first glass is immediately calling for the second.  Loved it.       






Domaine Humbert Freres Charmes-Chambertin Burgundy 2018

I have opened several bottles of this particular wine lately, and it has been excellent every time.  Showing remarkable consistency and potential. Is it the best Charmes-Chambertin I have ever tasted? No, but within this price range (140-150 Euros), it is definitely a great contender! Rich and generous, balanced with ripe dark and red cherry, earthy and mineral notes, refreshing acidity, and a lingering finish. The other day, one bottle was only half consumed; I revisited it 2 days later, and although slightly oxidized, it was still excellent.  What more to ask?     



Cheers! Sante!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Frugal night...





Frugal night... 😜



"Frugal" is not an appropriate word when serving 500 euros a bottle, but it came to my mind as that night I only served 2 bottles to a private dinner, while I usually open more than two bottles, hence the word frugal. 😁

You can look at my previous posts for the tasting notes of Selosse VO, as I have opened several bottles lately.

As for Denis Mortet, one of my favorite producers, it had been a while since I opened a bottle, especially "Clos de Vougeot".







Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Burgundy 2019


The bottle I last opened was great. However, this particular one was in a closed and tight phase. I opened it about 1 hour before serving, and it remained muted. It was good but could have been more expressive. Soft, gentle, and delicate on the nose, offering timid aromas of fresh red and dark cherries with earthy and mineral nuances. Despite the juicy cherry fruit and the long and lingering finish, the palate was tight and slightly austere with high acidity, unlike the previous bottle I opened, which was much more exuberant, generous, and ample. 

That is sometimes the issue when opening such young wines that have the potential to age and better develop with time. They go through opening and closing phases, and it can be challenging, even for an experienced Sommelier like me, to define the right opening moment, as top-tier wines are unpredictable in their youth. 

Oh well. Now I know. I better wait a few more years. The problem is whether I will have the patience to do so. 😁👍🍷

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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Monday, October 7, 2024

LeDomduVin: Quatuor




Quatuor



I forgot to post my tasting notes in my previous post, so here they are.




Champagne Jacques Selosse VO "Version Originale" Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut NV (disgorged in Nov 2019)


Selosse makes rich and complex champagnes, and this one was no exception. Beyond its dense golden color, it displayed buttery, toasted aromas, with yellow stone fruits mingling with nutty, slightly oxidative notes, like a Sherry. The palate is rich, layered, complex, ample, and generous, with just enough freshness and minerality to keep it balanced and harmonious. Due to its color and nuttiness, some may say it is already too old, but that is not the case. That is just how this champagne is. The finish is long and lingering. I liked it, but some may find it a bit overwhelming.






Jean-Claude Ramonet Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2018


Ramonet is one of my favorite producers in the Chassagne / Puligny area. The wines, with their zesty fruits, great freshness, and high minerality, have a sense of purity. And it was the case for this Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, a pure delight!






Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru Burgundy 2019


It was way too young, but I could not resist opening it. Nice, bright, ruby color with medium-deep intensity. The nose bosted beautiful autumnal aromas of dark cherry, toasted oak, venison, flowers, and earth, with smoky nuances. The palate was tight at first, with bright red and dark cherry and high acidity. I usually don't decant Burgundy wines, but I had to decant this one to allow it to better express itself. It took a while to reveal itself. Although I loved it, it will definitely benefit from a few more years in the cellar to display its full potential.






Chateau Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux 2016


I have opened this wine a few times lately. It usually shows really well, yet it was in a closed phase that night. For the tasting notes, you can have a look at my previous posts.






Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 


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Friday, September 27, 2024

LeDomduVin: Mise en place - Part 2: Quartet





Mise en place - Part 2: Quartet




These were the second parts of the "mise en place" I did 2 weeks ago. 

I opened them for a private lunch that weekend, and they showed beautifully. 




Champagne Jacques Selosse VO "Version Originale" Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut NV (disgorged in Nov 2019)


It delivered charm, character, intensity, and concentration with great finesse and beautiful minerality. In my book, it is a classic!






Champagne Salon Cuvee 'S' Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut 1996


Probably the most prestigious champagne house, Salon possesses unmatched uniqueness. Despite its age, it was gorgeously fresh and mineral, layered, complex, and long. Amazing! 





Jean-Claude Ramonet Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2018


Ramonet is one of my favorite producers in the Chassagne / Puligny area. The wines, with their zesty fruits, great freshness, and high minerality, have a sense of purity. And it was the case for this Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, a pure delight! 




Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg Grand Cru Burgundy 2020


It is a sacrilege to open such a young wine, yet I could not resist. It was rich, complex, and layered, offering generously ripe dark and red fruits. The palate was powerful and ample yet elegant and sophisticated, balanced and velvety, expanding beautifully towards the seamless finish. Although approachable now, it will reward those with the patience to wait for it. What a magnificent wine! 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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Wednesday, September 25, 2024

LeDomduVin: Portrait





Ledomduvin: Portrait 



Before continuing to share pictures and descriptions of the great wines I had the chance to open these past few days, I wanted to share this picture of me right before the service (taken last night).

I don't take many pictures of myself, especially when working, as I much prefer sharing the bottles and labels of the wines I open instead. It is much more interesting than showing my face. 

However, as I hadn’t done it for a while, I asked a colleague to take a few pictures of me before the service, and I liked this one. 

I am proud to be a Sommelier and lucky to do a job I love. I have been doing this for 33 years with the same passion, determination, and professionalism, and I will hopefully do it for many more years, sharing my love, passion, and knowledge of wine with all of you. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

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Monday, September 23, 2024

Ledomduvin: Mise en place - Opened wines - Part 1




Mise en place - Opened wines - Part 1


Following my previous post on "mise en place," here are some of the bottles we opened last weekend. This is part 1, and part 2 will be in a second post.




Champagne Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs Brut 2006


Rich, layered, complex, refined, fine bubbles, zesty, with fresh, delicate aromas of apple, pear, and stone fruits mingling with lightly toasted brioche, mineral, and floral notes. Stunning!






Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2019


This is a fantastic wine, with a delicate complexion and incredible minerality conveying a sense of purity. Displaying gorgeous Japanese pear and white stone fruit aromas and flavors, the palate is soft, gentle, rich, waxy, focused, incredibly balanced, and expands nicely from the attack to the long-lasting finish, with that glycerine sensation that makes you salivate and want more. Some remained in the bottle, and I tasted it two days later; it was still delightful. I loved it!






DRC (Domaine de la Romanee Conti) Richebourg Grand Cru Burgundy 1993


One of the guests brought this bottle. It was okay, not great. As I often say, even DRC or Petrus makes lesser wines in lesser vintages. When the wine is bad, the wine is bad, no matter the name on the label.

This was a perfect example. It was not surprising either, as 1993 in Burgundy is a controversial vintage (opinions are divided), but nonetheless relatively poor due to rain during the growing and harvest seasons, resulting in high acidity, tight tannins, and a lack of fruit in many wines. The wine was relatively thin and tight, shy about aromas and flavors, and lacking substance and depth. The guest suggested decanting it, yet even after 1 hour, despite somewhat of a timid opening, it was not necessarily better. Disappointing, in my opinion, and definitely not worth the demanded price.





Chateau Latour Premier Grand Cru Classe Pauillac Bordeaux 2005


This was another stunning wine. It even showed better than the previous bottle I opened the week before. Racy, sophisticated, rich, and layered, yet in an elegant way. Not the powerhouse I thought it would be for such a solar vintage: this wine is all about finesse and refinement. Loved It!

Cheers!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Champagne Dom Perignon Rose Oenotheque1992




Champagne Dom Perignon Rose Oenotheque1992 




This past weekend, I had the chance to taste this beautiful champagne rose from a magnum bottle for the first time. 

It was exciting and surprising as I don't get to try Dom Perignon Oenotheque very often, especially from the 90s and, more significantly, Rose. 

I did not really know what to expect, so it was like venturing into new ground. 

In the glass, it displayed a strange color that is difficult to describe: something between a pale yet bright "rose-bonbon" and "pinkish-orange salmon". 

Despite its age, the nose was relatively young, fresh, and incentive, boasting red berries and strawberry aromas mingling with earthy and yeasty notes. 

The palate was pleasant, rather elegant, quite rich, and surprisingly dry due to a good amount of acidity. There were still some fine bubbles. The lingering finish is also agreeable. 

Is it the best rose from Dom Perignon Oenotheque I have ever tried? I cannot compare, unfortunately. 

Overall, it was a pleasurable experience. I think the magnum size and good storage condition ensured that it retained its freshness and taste. 

It would be interesting to taste a regular bottle to see if it tastes fresh or shows signs of aging. 

Please let me know if you have ever tasted this champagne and your impression in the comments. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

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Friday, September 20, 2024

LeDomduVin: Mise en place! What a line-up!




Mise en place! What a line-up! 



I know, I constantly repeat myself, yet it is true: I'm one of the luckiest Sommeliers I know. 

I mean, look at these wines! Isn't it amazing? 






How many Sommeliers can pretend to prepare, open, taste, and serve such gems regularly? Not many, for sure. 





These were part of a recent "mise en place" for a few private lunches and dinners (in the order of the pictures):


Champagne Jacques Selosse VO "Version Originale" Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut NV (disgorged in Nov 2019)

Jean-Claude Ramonet Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2018

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy 2019

Champagne Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs Brut 2006

Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg Grand Cru Burgundy 2020

Chateau Latour Premier Grand Cru Classe Pauillac Bordeaux 2005

Domaine William Fevre Chablis Premier Cru "Montmains" Burgundy 2019

Bachelet-Monnot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Hameau de Blagny" Burgundy 2018

Domaine Delaporte Sancerre Rouge "Silex" Loire Valley 2020




Such a great line-up of excellent wines! It makes me drool just looking at these bottles. 

In my next posts, I'll tell you about the ones I opened, tasted, and served. 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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Thursday, September 19, 2024

LeDomduVin: The usual suspect - Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Burgundy 2019



The usual suspect


Those who follow me know that I have opened this wine countless times over the last three years, hence my calling it “the usual suspect”!

What can I say? I love this wine; and it gets better every time I open it


Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Burgundy 2019


It is still a young wine, and over the last three years, it has gone through “open and closed” phases. Yet, this time again, it was open and delicious!

Right after opening, attractive, exuberant scents emanated from the bottle. Dense and bright ruby color in the glass. Beautiful wild red and dark cherry, floral, spicy, lightly oaky aromas combined with mineral and earthy nuances filled the room.

The palate is bright, juicy, complex, layered, rich, yet delicate, elegant, sophisticated, and superbly balanced between the fruit, the acidity, and the integrated tannins. The structured and textured mid-palate leads to the seamless and lingering finish, which immediately calls for another glass. I looooove this wine.

In a recent conversation with a customer, I explained that as a Sommelier, I look for the “Wow!” factor in a wine; this instant gratification and satisfaction that makes you want another glass as soon as you finish the first one.

I love buying, serving, and drinking these types of wine, especially when there is an excellent quality/price ratio.

Wine does not have to be expensive to be good. Plenty of “supposedly” premium wines and established brands, such as Chateaux and Domaines, sell lesser wines, especially in lesser vintages.

Despite the price they command, even DRC or Petrus makes wines that are not worth the cost in lesser years.

For me, whether it costs 10 or 1000 euros, good wine must give you instant satisfaction and gratification and make you want to drink more. And this “Clos de La Roche Vieilles Vignes” from Domaine Ponsot does just that!


Cheers! Santé!


Dom


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