LeDomduVin: Subtle Power

Subtle power 

I recently selected and served these wines for a private dinner, and I hadn't tasted them in a while. I was expecting them to be rich and exuberant, but in the end, their strength lay in their subtlety. 

Dom Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2010

Dom Ruinart exclusively selects Chardonnay from primarily Grand Cru sites. 90% of the Chardonnay grapes are sourced from the Côte des Blancs (including Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Avize, Chouilly, and Cramant), planted in the Côte’s famous white, calcareous chalky soil where it excels, benefiting from an easterly exposure. The remaining 10% comes from the north-facing Montagne de Reims, specifically from Maison Ruinart's historic vineyard, located in the Grand Cru areas of the village of Sillery.

Dom Ruinart 2010 represents a significant milestone. In its pursuit of excellence, Maison Ruinart extended the wine's aging process to reveal additional layers of flavor. For this cuvée, the oenological team decided to reintroduce cork during aging, confirming its benefits through years of tastings. After at least 9 years ageing on its lees, it is notable that the cork has imparted a woody character to this vintage, in addition to the aromas of grilled almonds and coffee on the nose and palate. Extra Brut with a dosage of 4 g/L.  

Beyond its pale yellow gold color, the nose is aromatic and fresh, offering aromas of yellow and stone fruits mingling with floral, mineral, toasted, and nutty notes. Overall, the palate is generous, ample, and layered, lingering somewhat, although not as long as I would have liked; yet the finish is fresh and elegant, elevated by a subtle bitterness. As it is neither too heavy nor too light, it is a good champagne to bring to any occasion, ideal as an aperitif with appetizers. A real quaffer!    

Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 2020

Vincent Bitouzet’s family history in Burgundy spans the last two centuries, with the Bitouzets among the earliest families in the area to bottle their own wines. Vincent’s grandfather received awards for his winemaking in 1860. When Vincent married Annie Prieur, they merged parts of their family estates to establish a renowned domaine. Now, their son Francois Bitouzet, Vincent and Annie’s son, is actively collaborating with his parents.

Based in Volnay, with significant holdings in Meursault, the domaine covers 12 hectares, roughly four of which are planted with Chardonnay, and the remaining eight with Pinot Noir. They practice organic viticulture, and the harvest is manually done. Classic Burgundian winemaking methods are used, using only indigenous yeasts.

The Bitouzet-Prieur family owns just over a quarter-hectare of Chardonnay, planted in 1983, in the lower part of this renowned premier cru "Les Perrières Dessous," located right above "Les Charmes" on the slope. The Meursault-Perrières is probably the most dazzling mineral wine in their collection. While it can be closed when young, it gradually opens up into a stunning white Burgundy with layered complexity. 

I was unsure what to expect from this wine, as it was my first time trying it.  I previously tried other wines from Bitouzet-Prieur, but never this particular one. I'm not sure why I always want to say "Bizoutet" ("Bizouter" is a slang in French that means "kissing" or "giving kisses", which would be a nice and funny name) instead of "Bitouzet". 

However, I was pleasantly surprised, as instead of being a powerhouse of creamy butter, popcorn, and toasted oak flavors, as some Meursault can be (those that are more New World-style than the New World Chardonnays themselves), this wine is all about subtlety, refinement, and elegance. The oak treatment is present but barely noticeable, as only about 25-30% new oak is used during its 16-month aging process, making it significantly more palatable and enjoyable than those using 100% new oak.  

At first, I misinterpreted its subtlety and elegance as a lack of body and weight. I wanted more from it, more fruit, more substance, more backbone. However, it then began to reveal itself after a few seconds. I tasted it again, and then it hit me. It was beautiful and charming. Fresh, light, and elegant yet complex and layered, it was like a ballerina, showcasing power, balance, precision, and sophistication in a subtle and graceful manner. If timid, the nose is fresh and mineral, with aromas of yellow fruits and citrus, combined with a gentle hint of buttery, toasted oak and herbal nuances. The palate is soft, silky, elegant, and refined, gently expanding towards the long, fresh, and mineral finish. Loved it!                   

Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze has been a family-owned estate for over 150 years, featuring numerous prestigious appellations in the top-tier Premier Cru and Grand Cru categories, which showcases a rich heritage. Today, Philippe and Christine Drouhin, along with their children, manage the estate.

Drouhin-Laroze's Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from an east-facing plot at 260 meters elevation, where the vines were planted in 1973 and 1986. The monks of Bèze established a chapel at that location in 1155. It was reconstructed in 1457 before eventually being destroyed, and it is the origin of the name of the appellation.

Those who follow me for a while know that I'm a huge fan of wines with "Chambertin" in the name. Why? The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, from the village wines to the Premier Crus and Grands Crus, are some of the most versatile wines of all Burgundy. For a Sommelier like me, they are the easiest to pair with. And this Chapelle-Chambertin from Drouhin Laroze confirmed this rule. 

The 2016 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru features approximately 30% whole-bunch fruit, which adds complexity, texture, and structure. Right after opening, the nose displays fresh aromas of ripe red cherries and berries, mingling with floral, mineral, oaky, and earthy notes, reminiscent of a forest floor, but springier than autumnal. Light to medium-bodied, the palate remains quite subtle and could have benefited from a bit more volume and substance. And yet, it is clean, focused, refined, elegant, and sophisticated in its subtlety, with a finely textured and structured palate that is well-balanced between fruit and acidity, and a silky mouthfeel and fine tannins, all culminating in a lingering mineral earthy finish. Loved it.  

Chateau Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bordeaux 2005

Château Lynch-Bages, situated at the entrance to Pauillac, is a notable estate that has significantly influenced the history of the Médoc wine region. The terroir surrounding the area and the old village of Bages has been recognized since the 16th century, but it achieved broader fame in the 18th century.

According to "The Wine Insider," the Dejean family sold the property in 1728 to Pierre Drouillard. In 1749, Drouillard passed the estate to his daughter, Elizabeth, who was married to Thomas Lynch. That’s how the estate became part of the Lynch family, where it remained for seventy-five years and later on inspired the name "Lynch Bages". (*)

In the 1930s, Jean-Charles Cazes, already managing Les Ormes de Pez in St. Estèphe, took on a lease for Lynch Bages' vineyards. The Cazes family had a long legacy in Bordeaux dating back to the late 1800s. Jean-Charles Cazes later bought both estates just before World War II. Since then, Lynch Bages and Les-Ormes-de-Pez have remained under the Cazes family's management. (*)

Jean-Michel Cazes, who started as an engineer in Paris, entered the wine industry and began managing the estate in 1973. Soon after, he modernized every aspect of Lynch Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes met more people, traveled more often, and promoted his wines worldwide like no other Château owner. Lynch Bages is now one of the most popular and beloved brands in Bordeaux wine, thanks to Jean Michel Cazes's relentless efforts. It’s interesting to note that Jean-Michel Cazes was one of the first château owners to start promoting their wine in China in 1986. (*)

In June 1989, Lynch Bages inaugurated its new winemaking facilities, perfectly timed to celebrate one of the finest vintages they've ever produced. That same year also saw the opening of the Cordeillan-Bages hotel and restaurant. A few years afterward, the renovated Village de Bages, featuring various shops, was established.(*)

In 2006, Jean-Michel's son, also named Jean-Charles Cazes, became the managing director of Château Lynch-Bages. Jean-Michel Cazes continued to lead the family's wine and tourism division. Thanks to ongoing promotion in the Asian market, Château Lynch-Bages remains one of the strongest brands in the region, especially in China.(*)

A benchmark among fine Pauillac wines and one of the most recognizable Bordeaux labels, especially in the US and Asia, Château Lynch-Bages boasts over 90 hectares of vineyard rooted in the region's characteristic Garonne and lower Gironde estuary gravel soil. The hand-picked grapes are initially sorted in the vineyard and then usually aged for 15 months in about 80% new oak barrels.

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, Lynch-Bages benefited from the notoriously warm, sunny, and dry 2005 vintage. The lower yields, caused by dry conditions and water stress, limited production but improved ripening quality, resulting in high-quality grapes. 

The 2005 Lynch-Bages is very seductive and aromatic on both the nose and the palate. In the glass, the color is deep ruby with a slightly brownish hue. On the nose, it boasts a melange of dark berries, cassis, cedar, graphite, and forest floor aromas, with floral notes (such as violet) and earthy undertones. The palate is unexpectedly soft and gentle, medium-bodied and silky, with present yet fine and well-integrated, ripe tannins that add both texture and structure. It has enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively, and is balanced with the ripeness of the fruit, leading to a long, persistent, and delicious earthy finish. Loved it! 

And, once again, being a Pauillac spawned from the 2005 vintage, I was waiting for a bigger wine with more volume and weight, and yet its strength lay in its subtlety.  Well done!     

These are four elegant, refined, stylish wines with a soft expression and a subtle power. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

(*) Source: https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/pauillac/lynch-bages/ 

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Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

LeDomduVin: Bordeaux vs Burgundy Series (# 3) - The Eternal Rivalry

 

BORDEAUX vs BURGUNDY
SERIES # 3

Bordeaux vs Burgundy: The Eternal Rivalry!

I recently had an interesting conversation about Bordeaux bashing and the comparison between Bordeaux and Burgundy, which inspired me to create the illustration above and write this post.

We discussed the problems that both regions have faced over the last decade and attempted to compare them, ultimately dispelling the misconception of rivalry between the two.   

Both Bordeaux and Burgundy have experienced the effects of climate change. 

The increasingly unpredictable weather patterns have resulted in more frequent challenges, including frost, hail, storms, rain, floods, and droughts. These shifts in temperature and conditions, particularly more frequent and severe heatwaves, disrupt the vine's growth cycle, lower yields, ripen the grapes sooner, and raise the risk of disease (such as downy mildew in Bordeaux). This variability has made it more challenging for winemakers to maintain consistent quality and has increased vineyard work, requiring greater attention and vigilance to protect the harvest.   

Both Bordeaux and Burgundy have their own administrative, market & economic challenges. Let's start with Bordeaux. 

Bordeaux has struggled with declining consumer demand, particularly among younger generations, due to shifts in consumer habits, high prices, and changing financial opportunities. It also suffers from its outdated, traditionalist, and aristocratic image, and has significant issues with its "En Primeur" system and classification. 

Bordeaux "En Primeur" wines are overpriced, stagnant, and disconnected from release prices, leading to reduced demand and a flooded secondary market. Recent vintages have frequently been launched at prices that are too high, disconnected from what consumers are willing to pay. 

This overpricing has caused demand to stagnate, with many wines from recent vintages trading at prices lower than their initial release prices, leading to unplanned unsold wine stocks. As a result, rising storage and borrowing costs put financial pressure on the system, especially when stock remains unsold and loses value while stored. 

Despite some late efforts to lower the release prices for the 2024 vintage, the high release prices of previous vintages, such as recent ones (2021, 2022, and 2023), and the price stagnation or decline in the secondary market, have resulted in wineries and merchants alike still having large stocks of unsold wine. Weak demand and unfavorable global market conditions created a situation where buyers are unwilling to pay high prices for these wines.    

The system's reliance on traditional intermediaries, such as courtiers and négociants, is seen as an outdated, lack of transparency model that creates barriers between producers and consumers, resulting in financial strain and alienating modern consumers. 

The system, which sells wines "en primeur" before they are bottled, has been undermined by the availability of back vintages that are now selling for less than release prices, making consumers wary of buying unfinished wines. 

Other issues include the long wait for delivery, uncertainty about the final wine quality before bottling, and a shift in top producers' preferences for direct-to-consumer sales or subscription models, which challenge the traditional model's long-term viability.  

Bordeaux classification problems stem from the 1855 classification's static nature, which fails to account for over 170 years of evolving quality, winemaking, vineyard management, and ownership changes, leading to a disconnect between official status and current quality. Key issues include outdated rankings, the omission of Right Bank wines, market distortions where status and prices outweigh merit and even quality, confusion caused by younger and more dynamic classifications such as those in Saint-Émilion, and controversies surrounding the rankings, demotions, and withdrawals from the system. 

The 1855 classification has remained largely unchanged since its creation, despite significant advancements in winemaking, vineyard management, and shifts in estate ownership, quality, and size over the past 170 years. Many estates have significantly improved their quality, yet their classification has remained the same, while some classified estates may have declined relative to non-classified ones. 

The 1855 classification also excluded Right Bank wines, such as those from St-Emilion, and other wine regions from Bordeaux. The staticity of this classification system creates market confusion and leads to status mattering more than the actual wine quality, causing price distortions. 

Additionally, wine styles in 1855 were quite different from those today, featuring lower alcohol levels and less tannic wines. Bordeaux wine's alcohol content has increased from traditionally lower levels around 12-12.5% back then to modern averages closer to 14%. 

This trend has been gradually driven by various factors, including rising global temperatures—especially since the mid-1980s, around 1985 and 1989—leading to increased grape ripeness and higher sugar content. It has also been influenced by changes in winemaking techniques, vineyard and cellar management, and consumer tastes shaped by influential wine critics, which drove demand for more powerful wines and encouraged growers to pursue higher alcohol levels.  

Moreover, estates have changed hands, and vineyard sizes have increased dramatically since 1855, which, despite overall improvements, has impacted, in some cases, both the quality and consistency of the wines. 

As for the other classifications, while newer, the Graves Classification, established in 1953, revised in 1959, and refined by the creation of the Pessac-Leognan appellation in 1987, offers no quality distinction, listing all classified estates with the same status despite inherent quality variations. 

The Saint-Émilion classification, established in 1955 and revised in 1958, is periodically reassessed roughly every 10 years. The list was updated in 1969, 1986, 1996, 2006, 2012, and 2022. However, it has faced issues with a confusing A/B rating system and controversy over rankings, demotions, legal challenges, and even withdrawals by top estates, like Château Cheval Blanc and Ausone in 2021, followed by Angelus in 2022, due to disagreements with the system, which they felt had become a source of conflict and instability instead of progress. 

Some estates, with strong brand recognition, no longer rely on official classifications, further weakening the system's relevance. For example, Château Lafleur announced just a few days ago that it had left the Bordeaux Appellation System and revoked its status as a Pomerol and Bordeaux wine, selling all six of its labels as Vin de France from the 2025 vintage onwards. This move responds to the accelerating impacts of climate change and the increasing restrictions imposed by the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée/Protégée (AOC/AOP) system, as mandated by the Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité (INAO).

Additionally, over the past 25 years, the rest of the world has followed suit in producing wines, with more than 80 countries (out of 195 worldwide) now making their own, resulting in overproduction, increased national consumption, and reduced imports from other countries. China, for example, which used to import countless containers of Bordeaux wines in the 2010s, is now relying more on its own wines. The problem is that high demand from markets like China in previous years supported increased Bordeaux release prices for certain vintages, but this is no longer the case.   

Climate change, geopolitical situations, financial crises, global inflation, taxes, tariffs, overproduction, and other factors, such as changes in consumption habits and growing health concerns in the young generations, have led to a global surplus of wine and unsold stocks (in both wineries and merchants' warehouses around the world), weakening the market.   

As a result, facing an excess of wine, some Bordeaux producers have turned to diversifying their crops and offering products like zero- or low-alcohol alternatives, more appealing to a younger audience, to meet demand, or, in the worst cases, have chosen distillation or even uprooting vineyards to control their supply and avoid having to shut down.  

The uprooting of vineyards in Bordeaux is being carried out in accordance with a French government-funded program aimed at addressing overproduction, declining domestic and international demand, and shifting consumer preferences that favor other beverages. The program offers subsidies to winemakers for removing vines and repurposing the land. This strategic adjustment aims to stabilize the Bordeaux wine market by reducing supply and refocusing on higher-quality production. 

To summarize and conclude, over the past decade, Bordeaux wines have faced significant challenges, including the severe effects of climate change, which have caused volatile vintages and higher production costs. Additionally, there has been a global drop in demand, especially from China, and an oversupply of red wines due to declining domestic and export markets. These factors have resulted in falling prices for many wines, market saturation, and even government-funded vineyard uprooting programs aimed at addressing the supply and demand imbalance. The continuously increasing restrictions imposed by the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée/Protégée (AOC/AOP) system, as mandated by the Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité (INAO), are outdated and insufficient to solve or even address many of the challenges faced by the vignerons.  

Now let's review the administrative, market, and economic challenges Burgundy faces.  

****work in progress****

while Burgundy faced challenges with high prices and the perception of artificial scarcity despite its focus on small-scale luxury. 

This led us to consider how Burgundy prices have skyrocketed over the last decade, while Bordeaux prices have plummeted. Yet, as Burgundy wine prices soar, people might return to Bordeaux for better value, which somewhat entertains the rivalry between them.  

Bordeaux and Burgundy are often seen as rivals. The rivalry between them is a centuries-old debate driven by their different philosophies, grape varieties, and winemaking styles. 

Still, "rivals" is a strong word; I prefer to call them friendly competitors because, in the end, they target similar but slightly different types of consumers, collectors, investors, and markets.      

This friendly competition, often viewed as a reflection of the broader French spirit—Bordeaux's bourgeois influence versus Burgundy's more aristocratic, sensual nature—provides wine enthusiasts with a rich choice between power and finesse, structure and delicacy, drinkability and age potential. 

It's a healthy competition where they observe and challenge each other to improve, despite their differences. Because, frankly, there are no two wine regions that could be more different than these two.

Their philosophy differs in that Bordeaux centers on blending grapes to create complexity and structure, with styles like robust Cabernet Sauvignon-based reds from the Left Bank or Merlot-dominant wines from the Right Bank. Meanwhile, Burgundy emphasizes expressing a single vineyard's unique characteristics through single-varietal wines, highlighting the profound influence of terroir. 

Their grape varieties differ as Bordeaux is known for its bold, complex blends, usually featuring Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. At the same time, Burgundy is famous for its elegant, terroir-focused single-varietal wines, especially Chardonnay for whites and Pinot Noir for reds. 

Their terroirs differ as Bordeaux is characterized by more uniform gravelly or clay-rich and limestone soils, and with a weather influenced by a maritime climate and the Gironde estuary, as well as the Dordogne and the Garonne rivers. While Burgundy is renowned for its diverse soils and climates, with ancient monastic traditions meticulously mapping out vineyard plots to capture the subtle and unique differences of the various terroirs. 

Their cultural representations differ as Bordeaux is often associated with the bourgeois, dirigiste spirit, a more structured, serious approach to winemaking. While Burgundy is more commonly seen as representing a more peasant, sensual, and Rabelaisian aspect of the French soul, producing aromatic, full-bodied, and sophisticated wines. 

Their classification systems differ, as Bordeaux has a famous classification system that has long been a standard in the wine world. While Burgundy has a classification system rooted in medieval monastic traditions, highlighting individual vineyards, or climats, which are often smaller and more intimately studied. 

In the end it is a friendly competition as While there is a clear and long-standing rivalry, it is largely a friendly one, with both regions representing the pinnacle of French wine production. Wine enthusiasts can find equally compelling reasons to appreciate both the power and structure of Bordeaux and the finesse and subtlety of Burgundy. 

The choice between them often depends on personal preference and the specific occasion. 

As Dany Rolland put it so well in a comment to my post on Facebook: "There are no real rivalries, but rather stories of tastes, opportunities... and these are two regions with historic, renowned vintages, which therefore fuel all the speculations of language and price, comparisons more than choices... if not cultural ones. This is the diversity." 

Let's hope consumers continue to appreciate both, as both Bordeaux and Burgundy deserve to remain leaders and inspirations in the global wine market.    

********work in progress*******

The post is currently in progress because it’s a controversial subject, and I want to stay as neutral as possible to avoid offending anyone, as I have worked all my life to promote both in my 33-year career.

However, if you're interested, I've already written two or three posts on this topic in recent years on my blog, as it has been a recurring subject for more than a decade.

I thought that the quote from Richelle Mead's book “The Golden Lily: A Bloodlines Novel” (2012) was remarkably insightful and very "À propos" for this illustration. 😊👍🍷

*****work in progress*****

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Is there any Scotch whisky similar to Irish whiskey?

Is there any Scotch whisky similar 

to Irish whiskey? 

That is a question I recently had to answer when I was tasked with finding one within our stock rather than buying one directly on the market. And the short answer is yes. 

The main difference between Irish and Scotch whiskies lies in the distillation process, the types of grains used, their smoothness, and flavor characteristics. 

Irish whiskey is known for its smoothness due to a third distillation and the absence of peat. Many Irish whiskies feature light, fruity flavors with notes of vanilla, caramel, and honey. 

So, finding a Scotch whisky with similar traits in the stock was a tricky task. 

However, some Scotch whiskies, especially from the Lowland region, are also known for being delicate and smooth. Additionally, a good blended malt, such as some Speyside blends, can provide a smooth, fruity, and complex profile that resembles Irish whiskey. 

From personal experience, I knew to steer clear of the smoky, earthy flavor typical of Islay, which is known for its peat. 

While checking the stock, I found a few Speysides, but I wasn't convinced until that bottle of Antique Lions of Spirits 'The Butterflies' Bladnoch 27 Years Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky (1990-2017) - (Selected & bottled for Antique Lions of Spirits - ALOS -) caught my eye. 

As per Wikipedia, "Bladnoch distillery is a Lowland single malt Scotch whisky distillery located at Bladnoch, near Wigtown, Dumfries and Galloway in south west Scotland. The distillery is situated on the banks of the River Bladnoch. It is one of six remaining Lowland distilleries, and is the most southerly whisky distillery in Scotland." (*)

Bladnoch's recent history is filled with twists and turns. In 1987, the United Distillers Group acquired the distillery but closed it in 1993. A Northern Irishman named Raymond Armstrong discovered it during a holiday in 1994, and although he initially planned to convert it into a holiday home, he changed his mind and decided to refurbish it. The distillery reopened for production in December 2000. The company operating Bladnoch shut down in March 2014. In July 2015, Australian entrepreneur David Prior purchased the distillery, and it resumed production in the spring of 2017. In July 2019, Dr. Nick Savage, who previously worked for William Grant & Sons and served as Master Distiller at The Macallan, joined Bladnoch as Master Distiller. (*)

The resulting whisky is part of the "Butterfly Series," created from three carefully selected casks chosen and bottled by Antique Lions of Spirits - ALOS - a collaboration between three friends and whisky enthusiasts: Jens Drewitz from Sansibar (a German independent whisky bottler), Max Righi from Whisky Antique (one of the largest sellers of rare and collector spirits worldwide, based in Formigine near Bologna, Italy), and Diego Sandrin from Lion's Whisky (another renowned seller of fine and rare whiskies based in Venice, Italy).  

It was distilled by Bladnoch in 1990, aged for 27 years in a Bourbon cask, then bottled in 2017. 

Although most online ratings are not particularly eloquent about this whisky (e.g., 87/100 and 89/100), I haven't had the chance to taste it myself, so I cannot confirm or deny them. It was a gift for a guest of one of my bosses, so I just passed on the bottle.   

However, in my opinion, special bottlings by third parties like this one are often a hit or miss. On the other hand, it is part of the Lowlands whiskies, which are generally rated lower than their counterparts from the Highlands, Speyside, Islay, and Campbeltown, as they tend to be softer, more delicate, and smoother, and are often underappreciated by purists.     

The descriptions I found mention it being a bit old, but the warm vanilla and fruit notes really make the nose stand out. It remains very good on the palate, even with the added grassy notes and bitter edges, offering a long, highly zesty, very grassy finish with hints of resinous oak. That doesn't sound too bad for plates like mine, which don't mind zestiness and bitterness.  

If I get the chance to taste it one day, I'll let you know what I really think of it, and if, in fact, it was comparable to an Irish whisky.  

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #whisky #whiskey #scotchwhisky #irishwhiskey #ALOS #antiquelionsofspirits #thebutterflies @bladnochwhisky #bladnoch #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #ilovemyjob

(*) Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bladnoch_distillery 

For more details, go to the distillery website at: https://www.bladnoch.com/

Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

LeDomduVin: Feel Good Wine!

Feel Good Wine! 

Bodegas Luis Cañas Rioja Reserva Selección de la Familia, Rioja Alavesa, Villabuena de Alava, Spain, 2019

Recently, I had a great time drinking this wine over some delicious tapas at the bar of @bayfaresocial restaurant, in Rosewood Hotel HK, with one of my coworkers. This juicy Rioja hit the spot as a perfect feel-good wine, making me feel in heaven for a moment! Great food, great wine! Just what I needed that day! 😋😋😋😋😋😁👍🍷

Bodegas Luis Cañas Rioja Reserva Selección de la Familia, Rioja Alavesa, Villabuena de Alava, Spain, 2019

Bodega Luis Cañas is a family-owned winery with over 200 years of history in viticulture and winemaking. It wasn't until 1970 that Luis Cañas launched its first bottled young wines, having previously sold exclusively in bulk. From then on, sales increased, and it gradually became one of the prominent wineries in Rioja Alavesa.

In 1989, a new chapter in the winery’s history began as Juan Luis Cañas, the sole son of Mr. Luis Cañas, took leadership. At 33 years old, he introduced innovative ideas and started creating new wines while also offering more aged Cuvées, setting the groundwork for what would eventually evolve into the modern winery.

This wine is one of the few Rioja wines that blends Cabernet Sauvignon with Tempranillo. In the early 1980s, Bodegas Luis Cañas received approval from the D.O.Ca. to plant this variety as an experiment, and it has remained part of the blend ever since. 

A blend of 85% Tempranillo and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2019 Rioja Reserva Selección de la Familia is an easy-going red wine aged for 20 months in 50% French oak and 50% American oak. In the glass, it displays a deep and dense purple hue. The nose offers ripe aromas of black fruits, mingling with earthy yet smooth notes of graphite, smoked tobacco, and chocolate, and oaky nuances. The palate is full-bodied, rich and suave, balanced and layered, with ripe and present yet well-integrated tannins, gently coating and expanding towards the long finish. Nicely done! Loved it!

 

*****

I posted this post on Facebook, and a Spanish producer I'm friends with (on FB) put a comment roughly saying: 

"There are many better wines (in Rioja) than this one, which is very industrial." 

To which I answered: 

"Of course, there are many better wines (in Rioja), but there, in this tapas bar, in Hong Kong, that's what they had by the glass, so I wasn't picky, and sure enough, with the tapas, it was super good and it went down very well. 😋😁👍"

To which I added: 

"That's what wine is all about, and you know it as well as I do: the place, the atmosphere, the company, the moment, the context, the food, etc., can transform a wine and make it better, right there, in the moment. 😁👍🍷"

To conclude: "Wine is all about the moment!" - Dom.

And that is exactly what this wine was! 

• Was it the best Rioja I have ever tasted? No, but it was definitely one of the nicest I've tasted recently, especially considering the price (a bottle costs about 20 euros retail). 

• Is it industrial, as that producer said, mass-produced? It isn't, but even if it were, so what? There are many wineries in Rioja producing a lot of bottles, and the wines are delicious. Quantity does not always mean lower quality. The same goes for Bordeaux, for example.  

• Was it great? Yes, as it was pretty juicy, rich, layered, balanced, with appealing aromas and flavors, good structure and texture, with integrated tannins, and a smooth, long finish. 

And at that moment, that day, it was all I needed to enjoy my tapas and have a pleasurable moment! I enjoyed it very much! So much so that my coworker and I both had another glass, as one wasn't enough! This wine made me feel good right then, and that's all that matters! 

Wine is all about the present moment, and fortunately, tasting is subjective, so there is something for everyone. There is no real point in downgrading a wine someone is enjoying simply because you don't like it yourself or don't find it good enough. Everyone's palate is different. 

And, of course, there will always be a "better, faster, stronger" wine out there that might be superior, but it doesn't matter. If you consider the wine you're drinking at that moment the best in the world (even if it isn't) and it makes you feel good, then, no matter what, it is the best wine in the world at that moment! And don't let anyone tell you otherwise! 

As my grandfather used to say: "Si tu n'aimes pas ça, n'en dégoûte pas les autres!" (which could awkwardly be translated as "If you don't like something, don't disgust others with it").    

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Casual night with four excellent wines!

Casual night with four excellent wines! 

Maison Piper-Heidsieck "Rare" Champagne Brut Millesime 2008

The history of the "Rare" bottle dates back to 1885 when Piper-Heidsieck made a very exclusive cuvée to mark its 100th anniversary. This special bottle was presented to Queen Marie Antoinette of France. It was crafted by Fabergé, the famous jeweler of Tsar Nicholas II, known for his elaborate jeweled eggs. The design was majestic, decorated with white gold, diamonds, and lapis lazuli gemstones. 

A century later, the first "Rare" cuvée was produced in 1976. The bottle featured ornamentation by Parisian jewelers Van Cleef & Arpels, clearly inspired by the original Fabergé design. Later editions were created by Arthus Bertrand, offering a more subdued but still elegant and stylish appearance.

In the past 49 years since its creation, the "Rare" cuvée has only been produced in the best vintages, reflecting its name: 1976, 1979, 1985, 1988, 1990, 1998, 1999, 2002, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2012, and 2013, as well as in rosé in 2007, 2008, 2012, and 2014.  

The 2008 vintage, released in 2021, does not feature the name Piper Heidsieck on the bottle or front label, as since 2018, "Rare" has been sold as a separate brand from the rest of Piper-Heidsieck champagnes, similar to how Moët & Chandon markets "Dom Pérignon" independently from its main wines.

 

Originating from an exceptional vintage in Champagne, Piper-Heidsieck's prestige cuvée "Rare" 2008 has been crafted from grapes sourced from some of the finest parcels available to the house. The 2008 vintage's backbone comes from the Montagne de Reims, offering intensity, complexity, and minerality, balanced by Chardonnay from grand cru villages in the Côte des Blancs and Pinot Noir from Ambonnay. These villages also supply grapes for some of the world's most highly sought-after champagnes, including Krug and Salon.   

The resulting champagne is stunning, showcasing the exceptional qualities of the vintage. Besides its pale golden color and fine, small, lively bubbles, it immediately bursts with energy, freshness, and crispness in the nose, with expressive aromas of yellow and orange fruits, citrus, nuts, spices, and mineral nuances. The palate is fresh, clean, complex, and layered, with a lovely toastiness and richness of aroma and flavor from extended aging on the lees (about 13 years). No wood is involved in the process, but you still detect some vanilla and nutty notes mingling with pear, exotic fruits, and coconut, enhanced by citrus nuances that expand nicely from the attack through the lingering finish. Superb!   

Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Chaumées" "Clos de la Truffière", Burgundy 2021

Domaine Michel Niellon is a well-respected producer of white wines in Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. The estate is known for its classic, mineral-driven, and age-worthy Chardonnays, especially its Premier and Grand Cru bottles. The wines are made with an emphasis on showcasing the terroir of each vineyard, balancing sharp minerality with rich, ripe fruit. 

Founded in the 19th century by Léon Niellon, the estate was expanded by Michel Niellon, who started working with his father Marcel in 1957. They have produced more than 50 exceptional vintages. The domaine began bottling in the 1960s, building a reputation for quality. From the original 4-hectare estate in Chassagne-Montrachet, Michel established a notable reputation by making rich, ripe Premier and Grand Cru white Burgundies, as well as a small amount of excellent Premier Cru red. Today, three generations of the Niellon family work at the domaine.

With the help of his son-in-law, Michel Coutoux, who joined him in 1991, Niellon has increased the estate’s production by acquiring new vineyards and expanding the winery. His grandson, Matthieu Bresson, also joined the winery after graduating from La Lycée Viticole in Beaune. Each generation brings its own knowledge and expertise to produce the finest wines. The winery is now managed by Michel’s son-in-law, Michel Coutoux, and his grandchildren, Mathieu and Lucie, with 8 hectares of vineyards, all in Chassagne-Montrachet, including small holdings in prestigious Grand Crus like Bâtard-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet.

The Niellons spend significant time in the vineyard, where they use sustainable methods such as plowing for weed control, avoiding herbicides, and employing lutte raisonnée for pest management. The family prioritizes early harvests to maintain acidity, often choosing to pick first in the village, where grapes ripen quickly due to their proximity to houses and benefit from slightly warmer temperatures than in the vineyards, causing them to ripen faster. 

Grapes are hand-harvested, fermented naturally in stainless steel tanks, and aged in French oak barrels (25% new) to blend terroir expression with richness. Recent tests include using concrete egg-shaped vats. The estate can produce up to 50,000 bottles annually, including Bourgogne Chardonnay, village-level Chassagne-Montrachet, and Premier Cru wines like Clos Saint-Jean, La Maltroie, and Les Vergers. Today, Domaine Michel Niellon’s wines, made in small batches from carefully farmed parcels, are regarded as benchmarks of classic white Burgundy, known for their minerality, elegance, precision, and longevity, qualities enhanced by their rarity.

Made from century-old vines planted in the "Clos de la Truffière," a walled enclosure at the top of the slope of the Premier Cru "Les Chaumées" vineyard, neighboring St-Aubin, the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Chaumées" "Clos de la Truffière" is a beautiful wine. The nose offers complex aromas with lime peel, green apple, mineral notes, and flint nuances. The palate is fresh, textured, and ample, with extra richness from the old vines enhancing the wine with both density and length, reminiscent of grand cru quality. The finish is long and fresh, displaying high acidity and a racy, tensile style, characteristic of the vintage. Once again, despite the challenging conditions of the vintage, Domaine Michel Niellon has succeeded in producing a wine with finesse, complexity, and excellent aging potential. Well done!

Domaine Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Burgundy 2018

Domaine Jean Grivot is a winery in the Côte d'Or, Burgundy, known for its rich, aromatic Pinot Noir wines with bright red fruit flavors.

The Grivot family originally came from the Jura region and had been growing vines since the mid-17th century. Just before the French Revolution, they moved to Vosne-Romanée. The estate was expanded in the early 1900s by Gaston Grivot, who sold some of his lesser plots to buy a parcel in the renowned Clos de Vougeot in 1919. Established in the 1930s, Domaine Grivot became one of the first Burgundy domaines to bottle and sell its own wines. Jean Grivot took over from his father, Gaston, in 1955. 

Today, the estate is owned by Jean's son Étienne, who took over from his father in 1987, along with his wife Marielle Grivot (Patrick Bize's sister, of Domaine Simon Bize). Their daughter, Mathilde Grivot, the fifth generation, has been the winemaker since 2017, succeeding her parents. Mathilde offers a new perspective while upholding the longstanding traditions of the Grivot family.

Located in Vosne-Romanée, the domaine exclusively makes wines from its own vineyards. Grivot owns about 15 hectares (37 acres) of land across Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges, including plots in Echézeaux, Richebourg, and a notable 1.9-hectare (4.6-acre) parcel in the famous Clos de Vougeot vineyard. The vineyards are farmed organically (though not certified) and planted mostly with Pinot Noir, with a few rows of Chardonnay used for Bourgogne Blanc. 

All of Grivot's vineyards are planted at high densities to promote competition among the vines, which helps reduce yields. This reduction is further supported by green harvests, which lower crop size to improve quality. The vines are all 40 years or older.

At the winery, the bunches are 95 percent destemmed and then undergo four to six days of cold maceration before fermentation in stainless steel, with no more pigeage after fermentation begins. Grivot's wines are generally aged in oak barrels for 15 to 18 months with varying amounts of new oak: around 25 percent for village wines, up to 60 percent for premier cru, and as much as 70 percent for grand cru. Wines are bottled without fining or filtration following lunar cycles and atmospheric pressure.

Having tasted it over the past few years, the 2018 Clos Vougeot was initially quite tight and closed, but it is now starting to open up and seems much more approachable. Although the vintage was marked by a warm, dry growing season that led to early flowering and a relatively early harvest, resulting in wines with concentrated fruit and notable ripeness, and some concern about a lack of freshness, some producers like Domaine Grivot managed to maintain balance, creating juicy red wines with both richness and vibrancy. The nose is still a bit closed, but opened up after about 15 minutes of aeration. The medium-bodied palate displays dense flavors of red and dark fruits, along with earthy and slightly savory nuances, supported by enough acidity to balance the fruit and tannins. The finish is a little dry but still quite good, offering plenty to enjoy.

 

Chateau Haut-Bailly Grand Cru Classe Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux 2009

Since I already dedicated a detailed post to Chateau Haut-Bailly last month (read it here), I will simply describe the wine. As I've mentioned many times before, I love Haut-Bailly. It is one of my favorite Pessac-Léognan wines. Beyond its opaque color, it offers enticing aromas of blackcurrants and blackberries combined with earthy, graphite, tobacco, and spice notes. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is dark, ripe, rich, layered, elegant, generous, and complex, with excellent structure and texture, a long finish, and some tannins that will need more time to fully integrate. I had to double decant it to enhance its aroma and remove sediments. It mellowed out after 20 minutes. I loved it. 

Like my grandfather used to say (for food): "Ça ne peut pas être mauvais, il n'y a que de bonnes choses dedans!"

Same for these wines; they can not be bad since there are only good things in them! 😋👍🍷

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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LeDomduVin: Wine Competitions

Wine Competitions

I'm thrilled to share that I have been selected as a wine judge for two prestigious competitions. 😊👍🍷

- China Wine Competition (October 22nd, 2025)

- Asia Wine Ratings (October 23rd, 2025)

Thank you, Beverage Trade Network, for the opportunity.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

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Unless stated otherwise, all rights reserved ©LeDomduVin 2025, on all the contents above including, but not limited to, photos, pictures, drawings, illustrations, collages, visuals, maps, memes, posts, texts, writings, quotes, notes, tasting notes, descriptions, wine descriptions, definitions, recipes, graphs, tables, and even music and video (when and where applicable).

LeDomduVin: What is "LeDomduVin" ?

What is "LeDomduVin"? 

This is my latest illustration for my blog at ledomduvin.com (link in bio)

As you probably realize by now, I may be 52 years old, but I still genuinely enjoy creating my own illustrations, like I did when I was a kid—drawing cartoons, making collages, and designing images and other visuals—to add to the posts I write on my blog. 

They often feature my two favorite protagonists: Glass & Bottle! 

Occasionally, I like to revisit some old posts and edit them to correct mistakes, rephrase sentences, and add more writing. 

Today, I was revisiting the page "What is LeDomduVin?" and decided to replace one of the illustrations. So I created this one instead. 

Visit the page here on my blog if you want to find out what "LeDomduVin" stands for. 😁👍🍷 

Cheers! Santé!

Dom 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #vin #wine #vino #wein #illustration #mylatestillustration #cartoon #glassandbottle #illustrationformyblog #blog #wineblog #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #lovewine

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LeDomduVin: While in Phuket

Yves Sauboua with a bottle of Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Vineyard Semillon - Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, Australia

While in Phuket 

I couldn't visit Phuket with my kids without stopping by my friend @yvessauboua's wine boutique. 

So that's what we did on our last day. We spent a few hours with him, his wife, and his friends on the terrace of his boutique, right before heading to the airport to go back to Hong Kong. 

Yves welcomed us warmly. It was good to see him and catch up. He opened some nice wines (with some charcuteries), including Moss Wood (@mosswood) Ribbon Vale Vineyard Semillon - Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, Australia 2018. 

Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Vineyard Semillon - Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, Australia 2018

A blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, the 2018 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Vineyard is a delightful, crisp, zesty, and lively white wine. The fermentation in barrels adds a subtle, barely perceptible oaky touch. The palate is dry and crisp with bright citrus and herbal aromas, expanding pleasantly in the mid-palate and leading to a rich, dry, and satisfying, long-lasting finish. Although some prefer it young, I'm in the camp of those who recommend aging it for at least 5 years for softening and development, giving it more depth. This one was 7 years old already and was still vibrant, rich, balanced, and fresh, tasting as if it were a more recent vintage. Loved it.   

I recommend pairing it with seafood like oysters and shellfish. Since we were in Thailand, I definitely would have considered drinking it with some steamed crab with lemongrass or a fish curry if given the chance. Maybe next time! 😋😁👍🍷 (...shame there is no white wine emoji!!!)

And, of course, we smoked a cigar. I had a "Confidenciaal" (@confidenciaal_cigars, a private brand of @eric.piras, also available at @bertie.hk ). Very nice smoke, quite full, rich, earthy, and flavorful, yet fairly easy to smoke due to its excellent draw.  

It was a very pleasurable experience, pleasant and easy, simple and joyful. I like this kind of moment. It made for a great memory as our last activity in Phuket. 

Thank you, Yves, for welcoming us and also for your energy, happiness, and generosity. It was much appreciated. 🙏😁👍🍷

Yves has a great selection of wines and spirits, so if you search for great wines in Phuket, pay him a visit at Wine2 by Yves (Wine Square by Yves). He surely has what you're looking for. 

See you in Hong Kong, Phuket, or elsewhere. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom 

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin @yvessauboua @ Wine Square by Yves #yvessauboua #winesquarebyyves #wine2byyves #wine #vin #vino #wein #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #friend #friendship #reunion #phuket #thailand #vacation

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LeDomduVin: Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes 2019

Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes 2019

Domaine Georges Lignier is an acclaimed Burgundy estate based in Morey-Saint-Denis. Georges Lignier is a cousin of Hubert Lignier. Their two estates possess comparable vineyard holdings and present some similarities, yet Georges Lignier's wines are often seen as more delicate and nuanced. 

Since 2008, Benoît Stehly, Georges' nephew, has been managing the estate.

George Lignier's esteemed vineyard portfolio includes over a hectare of Clos de la Roche, a smaller section of Bonnes Mares, and nearly 1.5 hectares (4 acres) of Clos Saint-Denis, making him the largest owner in that vineyard. Overall, there are 16 hectares (40 acres) of vineyards across 17 appellations, divided into 50 parcels.

Winemaking is generally considered traditional. The fruit is harvested slightly later than usual and is usually 80 percent destemmed. Village wines are aged in used oak, premier cru wines incorporate 30 percent new oak, and grand cru wines include about 50 percent new oak. More recent vintages have been bottled without fining or filtration.

This 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes is an elegant and fresh medium-bodied wine. It displays a medium-intensity red ruby color with attractive reflections. The nose is ripe and fresh simultaneously, offering aromas of ripe blackcurrants and dark fruits mingling with floral and earthy nuances. The palate is elegant, medium-bodied yet complex and juicy, with good acidity and present yet integrated tannins, which add freshness and structure. The finish is quite lovely and earthy. Nicely done with a sublime expression of the terroir! 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

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